Hi there, very interresting thread!
I live in southern wide suburbs of Paris, about 35km away from the "most beautiful town in the world" (as they say), it's at least 1.5 hour away by car.
Well, making music here is not that difficult, found lots of local structures to help newer bands practicing (unfortunately authorities are closing some of them) but hosting places environment is different.
In my area, I can count like 3 bars that host bands, I have yet no idea if/how much they get paid.
Most cover (mostly rock) bands move to bars in Paris making the area deserted from them.
In my area, I can found lots of original bands mixing with different influences including reggae, ska, electronic dub rock fusion, metal (a LOT of metal or related bands), some rap music trying to get in the mix and "chanson française" (french songs, it is kind of a style of music here...).
Most of the original bands plays in local, cities-managed scene.
All tours stop in Paris and sometimes nearby so we get to see internationnal bands there.
I don't know if it's only in France, but we have a LOT of festivals (2 to 3 days events) all over the country featuring different styles of music.
What else? Well, live music is not that popular here, people prefer to go to night clubs with a DJ

(I have never seen a wedding band for instance).
Take care
Guillaume