Belden gets mentioned favorably quite a lot (I did several searches) but no one ever specifies which cable no. they use. So, which is it? Which cable maximizes flexibility, durability, and has low resistance and capacitance at a low cost (and comes in blue). I'm a complete bulk cable noob but I'm sick of Monster (have been for a while) and I want to switch to making my own.
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Which Belden is best for instrument cable?
- Thread starter colcifer
- Start date
I used Belden 8410 for a long time, but it doesn't coil very easily and is hard to solder. Over the past several years I've been happy with this stuff:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
But it doesn't come in blue. Also found this online:
Canare GS-6 Instrument Cable by the foot
I know that Canare is a reputable brand, though I haven't tried it myself.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
But it doesn't come in blue. Also found this online:
Canare GS-6 Instrument Cable by the foot
I know that Canare is a reputable brand, though I haven't tried it myself.
I think that the designs which built Belden's reputation in audio cabling are obsolete. The legendary 8410 has Neoprene insulation with layers of cloth wrapping. The Neoprene causes the wire to corrode, making soldering difficult. Modern materials have made cables that are quite rugged while being cheaper to manufacture.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,909
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Pretty sure I told you more or less all there is to know the last time you posted about this? Anyhow, If you want Belden in colors you get it through Invalid Link Removed or other OEM vendors.
I suspect there are compounds in it that are acidic. All's I know is that old Belden cable develops corrosion on the conductors, and is difficult to solder. Vinyl jacketed cable (typical modern stuff) doesn't seem to have this problem.
One can clean up the wire quite easily to solder , copper naturally oxidizes and relatively fast, regardless of the heat shrink etc, oxygen is present at the solder joint and the oxidation works its way up that jacket. You'll notice as you strip it further, it is clean.
The bigger issue here to consider is that as vinyl ages it becomes hard, which equates to loss of flexibility, neoprene does not age this way. Neoprene is also non corrosive and chemical resistant.
With that in mind, I've been looking to rebuild a pedal board I made in the late 80s, and of late have done so much reading on newer cables being this or that, which for the most part is snake oil as the human ear can not detect a 5% difference in tone which if one digs hard enough, they will find some honest tests and specs on these expensive cables is exactly what separates most brands, if they even post true cable specs.
I've come to the conclusion that I will use Hosa straight 1/4 plugs to connect my pedals , so as to eliminate cable between pedals [ no offset jacks] and will use either Belden 8412 mic cable to start/end the chain under the board as well as tie to the Switchcraft 1/4 female jacks mounted on the side of the board. The idea is to have as little cable period , and have as little of it showing as possible.
I have considered trying Lava Magma but have yet to find it in bulk, a few feet will do me whatever I end up using.
I run to rows of vintage BOSS pedals, one row of analog , the other digital , Via [2] PSM5's so I can make any combination I want as the rows are Y'd together. I know I could use a voodoo power block or some new fangled power supply, but this has served me well.
Anyway, unless you are playing through an ultra clean linear amp, you will never begin to hear the difference of George L versus a Belden cable, Especially once any gain/distortion is applied.
Then again, tone is subjective and we all perceive sound differently, but a good advertising/marketing placebo usually prevails
The bigger issue here to consider is that as vinyl ages it becomes hard, which equates to loss of flexibility, neoprene does not age this way. Neoprene is also non corrosive and chemical resistant.
With that in mind, I've been looking to rebuild a pedal board I made in the late 80s, and of late have done so much reading on newer cables being this or that, which for the most part is snake oil as the human ear can not detect a 5% difference in tone which if one digs hard enough, they will find some honest tests and specs on these expensive cables is exactly what separates most brands, if they even post true cable specs.
I've come to the conclusion that I will use Hosa straight 1/4 plugs to connect my pedals , so as to eliminate cable between pedals [ no offset jacks] and will use either Belden 8412 mic cable to start/end the chain under the board as well as tie to the Switchcraft 1/4 female jacks mounted on the side of the board. The idea is to have as little cable period , and have as little of it showing as possible.
I have considered trying Lava Magma but have yet to find it in bulk, a few feet will do me whatever I end up using.
I run to rows of vintage BOSS pedals, one row of analog , the other digital , Via [2] PSM5's so I can make any combination I want as the rows are Y'd together. I know I could use a voodoo power block or some new fangled power supply, but this has served me well.
Anyway, unless you are playing through an ultra clean linear amp, you will never begin to hear the difference of George L versus a Belden cable, Especially once any gain/distortion is applied.
Then again, tone is subjective and we all perceive sound differently, but a good advertising/marketing placebo usually prevails
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I just had this cable made by D-Cline designs out of Canare cable. It has 2 different wood ends to match my 2 Warrior Basses. Canare cable is highly used in the Boutique world for cables.
