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which glue?

some of the edges of the vinyl covering are coming away from my fender amp.

i've tried sticking it back with super glue but it wasn't effective.

is there a particular glue i should be using for this task?

thanks in advance and apologies for the daft question, but i'm useless at this kind of thing!
 
I'm sure a type of contact cement was originally used. The fact that a super glue didn't work is probably more of a substrate prep issue.

So either clean and prep better or use a proper contact cement, like Weldwood Landau and trim adhesive.
Regular CA adhesive won't work. Gelled CA might work.
 
I'm sure a type of contact cement was originally used. The fact that a super glue didn't work is probably more of a substrate prep issue.

So either clean and prep better or use a proper contact cement, like Weldwood Landau and trim adhesive.
Most tolex is adhered with a neoprene tolex adhesive. Contact cement will work best for a repair like this where you're not pulling the whole sheet and prepping the panel.
 
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CA glues are terrible for porous and flexible stuff. Use contact cement. Weldwood, the kind WITH toluene, not the lousy "toluene free" version they were flogging for a while (I used to ride on tubular bicycle tires ("sewups") - ask me how I know this!)

If you live in California and can't get it (no telling what will become unavailable next) consider a smuggling run to NV or AZ.

"Hey, Buddy, want some contact cement? Mineral spirits? Thompson's Water Seal?"
 
Many old cabinets used hide glue, fish glue also works. Liquid products are available at wood shops. Otherwise you have to dissolve beads in a heated pot. It depends on when the cab was made. The down side is that you have to hold it in place till it dries. I use a stretchy tape for that.

I find the CA works well. It’s important to clean both surfaces well, sanding helps, not just a solvent. The negative here is that a solvent or even water can release more of the vinyl. Any excess will leak out and make a mess along the edge. The only CA that I use is manufactured by Bob Smith Industries. I find their products to be the best Not all adhesives are equal. I’ve seen amp manufacturers rework issues with CA adhesive and make a mess of them.

There is both water soluble and non water soluble (yellow) contact cement. What companies suchas Mojo sell as tolex adhesive is water soluble. The latter has dangerous fumes but holds way better.

There are also adhesives that require a UV light to fix. Some hardware stores sell them.

Even a rubber based adhesive can work. It depends on your product and technique.
 
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CA glues are terrible for porous and flexible stuff. Use contact cement. Weldwood, the kind WITH toluene, not the lousy "toluene free" version they were flogging for a while (I used to ride on tubular bicycle tires ("sewups") - ask me how I know this!)

If you live in California and can't get it (no telling what will become unavailable next) consider a smuggling run to NV or AZ.

"Hey, Buddy, want some contact cement? Mineral spirits? Thompson's Water Seal?"
It's like when I go to get refills on my blood pressure and cholesterol drugs - drivers license, phone number, address verification. Do they REALLY think there's a market for these on the street corner? "Hey buddy - I got pot; coke; heroin, blood pressure meds, statins, oh, and look here, I've got a tube of hemorrhoid ointment!" Yeah, right.
 
CA glues are terrible for porous and flexible stuff. Use contact cement. Weldwood, the kind WITH toluene, not the lousy "toluene free" version they were flogging for a while (I used to ride on tubular bicycle tires ("sewups") - ask me how I know this!)

If you live in California and can't get it (no telling what will become unavailable next) consider a smuggling run to NV or AZ.

"Hey, Buddy, want some contact cement? Mineral spirits? Thompson's Water Seal?"
Yes use the real Weldwood contact cement, you can get it in small bottles with a brush and gallon cans with sizes in between.
Apply some to each surface, let it nearly dry and then re attach the tolex, get it right the first time.
 
I have made some near perfect cabs with Tolex on them and the glue I used was titebond regular. The trick is to use a 1/16" notched trowel to perfectly and uniformly apply it. Neither expensive, nor tricky and it has a modest open time for adjustments. i doubt that the Tolex could ever be removed....
 
Construction adhesive is great for this kind of thing. You are trying to bond wood (the cabinet) to whatever fabric is on the back of the tolex - if that's a natural fiber, you're essentially bonding wood fibers and another cellulose fiber (the same thing). So any construction adhesive that bonds to wood will be just fine - construction adhesive is flexible enough to move when the wood does, and strong enough to hold on for decades. Whatever glue you want to use, cut a small piece off the tolex, and use the glue to stick it top a piece of wood, wait until it cures, and see how well it sticks.
 
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CA glues are terrible for porous and flexible stuff. Use contact cement. Weldwood, the kind WITH toluene, not the lousy "toluene free" version they were flogging for a while (I used to ride on tubular bicycle tires ("sewups") - ask me how I know this!)

If you live in California and can't get it (no telling what will become unavailable next) consider a smuggling run to NV or AZ.

"Hey, Buddy, want some contact cement? Mineral spirits? Thompson's Water Seal?"
I still have my road bike with Mavic 330 rims but my knees and bum just say NOooo !.
 
I have had good luck with this.

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if the tolex is old and stiff you might (carefully) use a hairdryer, heat gun or clothing iron to warm the material back into being pliable. then glue. painters tape or clamps and a flat piece of wood can hold the seams together until the glue cures. be careful of squeeze out.
good luck.
post pictures.
 
Yes use the real Weldwood contact cement, you can get it in small bottles with a brush and gallon cans with sizes in between.
Apply some to each surface, let it nearly dry and then re attach the tolex, get it right the first time.
You know, in the last few years I have been completely unable to find the wee bottles with brush. I use the stuff frequently but only in tiny quantities usually, so a bottle will dry out long before I use it up - and now I'm having to use the next size up can and throw THAT away when it dries up before I use it all.

Are you still seeing the small bottles in your area? I have not found them either in north Texas or New England.
 
You know, in the last few years I have been completely unable to find the wee bottles with brush. I use the stuff frequently but only in tiny quantities usually, so a bottle will dry out long before I use it up - and now I'm having to use the next size up can and throw THAT away when it dries up before I use it all.

Are you still seeing the small bottles in your area? I have not found them either in north Texas or New England.
Lowes still has it in Mid West Ohio