Which of these lining materials to use?

[JimChjones]

I hadn't picked up on the flared ports. That sounds like a dealbreaker for the amateur to try and play with in software. Blocking them off and starting again seems sensible. A little obvious trap to avoid, when feeding cabinet volume into the s/w, make sure you subtract port volume from the total.

FWIW my experience is that ports and damping material operate on different frequencies, one won't fix deficiencies with the other.

 

[TexasEdition]

I used a full size foam mattress pad from Walmart that was $12. I did a 2x16 peavy cabinet and a fender rumble 100 and still have some left over. Both cabinet's tightened up nicely.

 

[Somanytoys]

That speaker looks like exactly what was used to replace one of the speakers in my old SWR Redhead years ago.

Those are very good speakers, but a cabinet has a LOT to do with the sound. I personally wouldn’t risk damaging those speakers in a cabinet that isn’t made for or isn’t right for them. Letting the speakers waffle the wrong way WILL damage them, then you have to repair them or buy new ones. Total loss.

Those old PA cabs likely aren’t made structurally to handle that much bass, and the porting done for what it was, is going to be way different than what you need from it now. Trying to figure all that out and fix it seems harder and more work (*to me) than even building a new one correctly, but that’s going to be up to you.

The worst part is that I don’t really think you’ll get a lot of happy results from all of your hard work. Maybe, but I think that you’d be shocked how much better they sound if you slipped them into a proper cab to compare.

if you don’t want to build one, my advice would be to do what you said above - buy a good used cabinet that’s already built & ported correctly, and maybe sell off the old speakers from the cab to offset the cost of the cab.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck with it, either way.

 

[NighthawkGS]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input.

I was reading some of the cab modeling threads yesterday. Good Lord. Whole lot of terms I don't understand.

Does it make any sense to block off existing shelf-type port, model the now-rectangular internal volume, then put a round port on front baffle, as indicated by the modeling?

That would address the porting problem... Or is it the shape of the cab that is the primary problem? (Internal volume seems adequate, over 2 cubic feet?)

 

[NighthawkGS]

Here you go: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Note with the right cabinet the CA10's are good.
They deserve a good cabinet.

Looks interesting! Having trouble accessing me individual files for the individual cabs, they seem to be ".bb6" files? the 2x10 and 1x10... thanks!

CA10's I have sound good, with some bass EQ boost and bit of hpf. Currently have one in a old SWR LA10 carcass, and another in a Eden EX112 converted to 10 inch.

 

[NighthawkGS]

Here you go: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Note with the right cabinet the CA10's are good.
They deserve a good cabinet.

Looks interesting! Having trouble accessing the individual files for the individual cabs, they seem to be ".bb6" files? the 2x10 and 1x10... thanks!

The CA10's I have sound good, with some bass EQ boost and bit of hpf. Currently have one in a old SWR LA10 carcass, and another in a Eden EX112 converted to 10 inch. They certainly sound good together... will likely use their fairly large restaurant gig (rock) on Saturday.

 

[Blues Bass 2]

Yes , blocking off that port and doing the modeling for that size cabinet would be the best bet . I'd take out that angled port and then block off the front of the port . I have used matress topper for most of my cabinet builds but my last couple I used quilt batting from Walmart . About $5 and staples in very well . I doubled it over to get about 2 inches thick , works great and is cheaper than the foam matress topper .

 

[NighthawkGS]

Hi guys, still thinking about this project... Managed to destroy a CA10 (and also damage my amp... but that's another more expensive story).
.
MY QUESTION: Does it make sense that I destroyed that speaker just by pushing it a bit in a 2.1cf vented cab? Does this also explain why it was flopping around so badly, as compared to same speaker in smaller cab?

Looking at the Eminence cab design PDFs, looks like a small speaker in a big cab really reduces safe power handling. I was testing this 2 x 10 cab, but with just one speaker installed. Oops?

Eminence PDF shows some 2 x 10 cab possibilities for ca10 and also for bp102 that are in the 2.1cf range... So the future may be hopeful. But that's another post.

 

[NighthawkGS]

Here's that cab I'm working on again.

 

[agedhorse]

Hi guys, still thinking about this project... Managed to destroy a CA10 (and also damage my amp... but that's another more expensive story).
.
MY QUESTION: Does it make sense that I destroyed that speaker just by pushing it a bit in a 2.1cf vented cab? Does this also explain why it was flopping around so badly, as compared to same speaker in smaller cab?

Looking at the Eminence cab design PDFs, looks like a small speaker in a big cab really reduces safe power handling. I was testing this 2 x 10 cab, but with just one speaker installed. Oops?

Eminence PDF shows some 2 x 10 cab possibilities for ca10 and also for bp102 that are in the 2.1cf range... So the future may be hopeful. But that's another post.

This show why I so often suggest that speaker power handling can be seriously compromised when the tuning of the cabinet is inappropriate for the electroacoustic characteristics of the driver(s).

 

[NighthawkGS]

Yeah I didn't know that cabinet volume affected safe power handling ... So that's what did it, probably?

Parameters like shape and venting are hard to get a handle on, but, volume should be easy enough.

Thx!

 

[NighthawkGS]

Yeah I didn't know that cabinet volume affected safe power handling ... So that's what did it, probably?

Parameters like shape and venting are hard to get a handle on, but, volume should be easy enough.

Thx!

 

[JimChjones]

The parameters all work together unfortunately. I don't pretend to understand the science in detail, but my (extremely) crude understanding is that if you hang a speaker in empty air there will be a frequency (resonant frequency) at which a modest signal will cause a very large movement of the cone.

Put the speaker in a smallish sealed cabinet and the increase and decrease in pressure as the cone moves in and out damps down the cone movement and keeps things disciplined. And I *think* to complicate things further there's a resonant frequency in the box, and that can restrict or exaggerate the cone movement too.

Put the speaker in a ported box and it gets even more complicated. If I understand this right the air inside the box has a resonant frequency and the air in the port has a different resonant frequency, and the science of speaker design is to get all these resonances working together so the net result is as even sound as possible.

Where it can all go wrong is that if the resonances are wrong, and they reinforce each other rather than complement, then there will be a frequency at which a pretty modest power output will do its best to throw the cone across the room.

OK, that's my idiot amateur explanation. Now the experts and pros can pull it apart and explain it better...

 

[Rockbobmel]