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Why do people do this?

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#42
I've seen this around. I don't think that there will be any structural damage to the bass, at least. I do see the strings being bent at an abnormal angle and going dead super fast, however. Heck, I could be wrong. That could cause tension and is actually smart for some models. I don't love the idea of it, though.
 
#43
Here's another.
Screenshot_20201028-002054.png
 
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#47
two fingers said:
I learned to do it that way back in the 80s from a guy who did guitar and bass tech work for Bob Marley, the Rippingtons, and several other national acts. One loop over the string excess and the rest under. I've been doing it that way for 35 years with zero failures. There's nothing "wrong" about it. And there are exactly and precisely zero disadvantages to doing it that way.

So what's the problem and why do you care? Why is it worthy of "scouring the internet"?
Click to expand...

:D :D :D
 
#51
Watchootognbout said:
That a good way to get a twisted string.

The best way is to thread the string through the bridge.
Let it lay on the neck to cancel any twisting.
Measure 3 to four inches past the post and cut.
Bend the end to insert into the post hole.
Wind.
Clean and neat windings
View attachment 4450042
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Yes, and that is why I use the more traditional method - I leave about 5 inches of string past each post and clip them, then bend the first inch at 90 degrees, put the end inside the tuner and then wind it etc. The other (guitar) method works as well - I use it on my acoustic 6 string and am careful to wrap the string around the post instead of twisting it.
 
#54
As others have pointed out, you can wrap with one loop over the length that's sticking out, and then the rest of the wraps go 'round below that till you reach the bottom of the post . . . but I only did it with tuning keys that had a solid post with a hole through it, like a guitar tuning key. The idea was for the wraps above and below to 'cinch' the protruding length for tuning stability. It works.

Ordinarily, on the 'split' keys like the photo, I stick the end down into the post and wrap as normal. I'd actually never thought of doing the other method on a split key, but you certainly could, as the owner of the pictured bass did when he installed those strings.

Done right, you're fine either way.
 
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#58
Watchootognbout said:
Measure 3 to four inches past the post and cut.
Bend the end to insert into the post hole.
View attachment 4450042
Click to expand...

GretschWretch said:
But not every tuner has a hole. Vintage short scales mostly do not.
Click to expand...

FWIW, guitarists do it that way because most guitar tuners don't have the hole down the shaft. I mean, like mebbe 5% of mine do, if that.

Tip: Pre-cut the string so the end is at the next further, or mebbe between that and the second distant tuner - ex., cut the E string at the A tuner, the A at the D tuner, etc.
 
#60
vvvmmm said:
FWIW, guitarists do it that way because most guitar tuners don't have the hole down the shaft. I mean, like mebbe 5% of mine do, if that.

It would be useful to establish the approximate date at which the slotted tuner with the anchor hole in the capstan became the norm. For the fifties and much of the sixties only Fender did this. Others would come on board as the sixties progressed, but budget brands like Harmony and Kay did not, Gibson/Epiphone did not, Guild did not, National/Supro did not, Vox did not. Magnatone did. Oddly, even though they launched their bass in 1962, Gretsch used the slotted posts.

Tip: Pre-cut the string so the end is at the next further, or mebbe between that and the second distant tuner - ex., cut the E string at the A tuner, the A at the D tuner, etc.
Click to expand...

I always cut two inches past the next higher post, when I cut at all.
 
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