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Why not bloodwood?

#22
tjclem said:
I like the smell of bloodwood too sort of like pineapple. I see no problems with it but I have only done 1 fingerboard with it.......t

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And a very nice one it is.

I've used bloodwood as a fingerboard, and it works fine. I've also used it for stringers in a neck-through. Even though it's really hard, it shapes pretty easily with sharp tools.
 
#24
nateo said:
It seems to me that the bloodwood has the same drawback as purpleheart in that the colour fades with time. Personally I think it looks fine but it doesn't have any astonishing aesthetics beyond the colour. If that fades with time then you'll likely end up with a fine piece of plain wood. That said, I suppose the biggest reason it wouldn't be more prominent as a body wood is that it's heavy. You don't see many solid purpleheart bodies around for the same reason.

-Nate
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WRONG
Blood wood DOES ***NOT*** oxidize overtime, stays red and beautiful for ever as long as you take care of it, and this wood is beautiful
 
#27
Metal oxidizes and wood subjected to UV light photo degrades. You can slow it down, but never stop it. NO finish is available to block the change forever...NONE.

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Bloodwood does hold it's cool color well and it has some great coloring from brick red to yellow streaks. I prefer the quartersawn ribbon strip with lots of luster. Proven great wood for finger boards. Apply liberally.

Hi Paul...I'll be in the shop for a few weeks first of April.....white walnut burl hahahahaha
 
#28
Larry Davis said:
Metal oxidizes and wood subjected to UV light photo degrades. You can slow it down, but never stop it. NO finish is available to block the change forever...NONE.

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Bloodwood does hold it's cool color well and it has some great coloring from brick red to yellow streaks. I prefer the quartersawn ribbon strip with lots of luster. Proven great wood for finger boards. Apply liberally.

Hi Paul...I'll be in the shop for a few weeks first of April.....white walnut burl hahahahaha
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Larry, don't do this to me man! We've got another baby on the way and my wife will kill me if I spend the dough :(. Still......
 
#29
FretlessManiac said:
WRONG
Blood wood DOES ***NOT*** oxidize overtime, stays red and beautiful for ever as long as you take care of it, and this wood is beautiful
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Larry Davis said:
Metal oxidizes and wood subjected to UV light photo degrades. You can slow it down, but never stop it. NO finish is available to block the change forever...NONE.

Invalid Link Removed

Bloodwood does hold it's cool color well and it has some great coloring from brick red to yellow streaks. I prefer the quartersawn ribbon strip with lots of luster. Proven great wood for finger boards. Apply liberally.
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Fretlessmaniac, it's probably not a good idea to make such strongly worded statements in the LC unless you have years and years (and data) to back it up. Me, I don't have it and so wouldn't argue for one side or the other. Of course, I do have lots of pieces of bloodwood. Some have finish, some don't, some have been fully shaded, some partially. They have shown color changes over time.

Perhaps "oxidized" isn't the proper term, but saying that bloodwood will stay one color over its lifetime probably isn't accurate. I quoted Larry's post because, well, he does have the experience and it seems he disagrees with you :).

Oh yeah, and you're arguing with a post that was made four years ago. Just wanted to point that out.
 
#30
Basschair said:
Cool. I really, really liked the way my bloodwood turned out with a fine sanding and wax finish. It's just so deeply maroon.

btw: I changed the "oxidation" comment above, as I just saw that Larry specified that that term usually refers to burning of wood :D .
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Ah Ha.......wax finish. That might be the ticket. Im fine sanding mine right now with 0000

I have some warwick wax. Will that work ? Ive never used wax. Whats the best to use ?
 
#31
i have never heard of bloodwood changing a noticable amount;
and i dont think theres any way to block uv with a clear coat; there are inhibitors i beleive that reduce it, but they have an actual pigment in it to detour; like wearing sunglasses.
 
#33
I love the look and feel of bloodwood. But, I noticed one issue. I have two necks from Warmoth that are wenge with bloodwood fretboards. They both had a tendency to backbow, even strung with LaBella DTB's (which are rather high-tension). I suspect that the backbow was caused by differential expansion from moisture. In other words, the unfinished wenge absorbed less moisture so expanded less than the fingerboard. That created a backbow. I have no hard evidence that this is what caused the problem.
But other than that, it's a beautiful, beautiful material.
 
#39
billoetjen said:
I love the look and feel of bloodwood. But, I noticed one issue. I have two necks from Warmoth that are wenge with bloodwood fretboards. They both had a tendency to backbow, even strung with LaBella DTB's (which are rather high-tension). I suspect that the backbow was caused by differential expansion from moisture. In other words, the unfinished wenge absorbed less moisture so expanded less than the fingerboard. That created a backbow. I have no hard evidence that this is what caused the problem.
But other than that, it's a beautiful, beautiful material.
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so I have come to look at wenge neck and bloodwood as a build---how to seal the wenge so this won't happen?

just poly it?
 
#40
NSFW, but but seems fitting. ;)


But seriously, the best bet is to make sure that the woods have the same moisture levels to begin with. If you use a good finish that seals well you may better your chances even more. Whatever finish you use, a dual action truss rod may save you if you get into trouble.
 

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