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Winter 2019 Build Off Thunder Cub
- Thread starter Novarocker
- Start date
Thanks, I keep drifting back to it. Very fitting too I think.
Love my Rigid sander. You can get fine grit belts for it which will somewhat mitigate the material removal. Don't get me wrong, it will still hog off a good chunk if you're not paying attention.I think mine had 80 grit when I got it used. I usually buy 150 now. Also, if you don't already have one, those sanding belt cleaning sticks are nice. Couple of bucks at Harbor Freight.
First real time legitimate spindle or belt sander user, much more aggressive than my orbital. It came with 80 grit, but I heard it came with all sorts in the past. 120/150 is on the shopping list for sure! I realized afterward I was so focused on shaping the inside curve that I didn't realize the end of my strokes we're digging into the neck pocket a little. I knew I could glue more wood and patch the small indent, but figured it was so little and wouldn't hurt to just straighten the line out to avoid another day delay.
Those cleaning sticks are awesome! Sped up the job by a lot.
Got the neck pocket cut out and just have to clean it up. After that I'll mount the neck and bridge, string it up and give it a quick test! Getting really excited, the finish is in sight! Pun intended hahaha!
Oh and here's a quick little mock up with the pg template and neck with the rough cut pocket. I have a feeling I may take off a little more at the end of the pocket. Shave a little more weight and give more reach onto the fretboard.
Oh and here's a quick little mock up with the pg template and neck with the rough cut pocket. I have a feeling I may take off a little more at the end of the pocket. Shave a little more weight and give more reach onto the fretboard.
Made lots of good progress, but had something catastrophic happen yesterday afternoon. I'll have a full update by this evening, but here's a sneak peak.
Not gonna lie, I almost gave up and shed a tear...but I did some handy work and she'll be okay!
Teaser: sounds awesome acoustically unplugged!
Not gonna lie, I almost gave up and shed a tear...but I did some handy work and she'll be okay!
Teaser: sounds awesome acoustically unplugged!
What caused that? Glad you're hanging in though! That's the spirit!
So while in haste to make progress in my limited time slot, I was tapping down a neck screw ferrule. I had limited space on the bench due to the sander. Instead of taking the sander off, I allowed some of the body to hang off the corner edge of the bench. I assumed since most of the force would be over the solid strip down the center of the body that I should be fine.
In retrospect, I was working with limited tools. I used a forstner to bore out for the ferrule and the set I have is American/English. The ferrule on the other hand appears to have been metric. Alas, I had to use a couple hard taps and on one of them I heard a crack... I then proceeded to tap the rest in after moving the sander to the floor and having the body fully over the bench. I'm assuming that the pressure from the corner caused it to cave in there. Haste makes waste. Luckily, I figured out a fix. Interestingly the break happened along the grain and proved once again that glue joints are stronger than the wood.
I don't have pictures of the gluing process, but I used dabs of CA in gaps of the wood glue to help set the joints prior to mild clamping. Held in place for 30 seconds, then went about clamping. Worked like a charm. I googled using ca and wood glue and a video popped up of using the ca like a clamp for the wood glue.
The only thing now is to see if it maintained structural integrity. I did string it up to tune and intonate the strings without the section there. No issues to speak of, so in regard to usability I don't see it being an issue. If I see issues down the line, I can always fab up a wing and glue it on as a replacement.
I've heard it said here before. But the most interesting parts in these builds is how mishaps and issues are resolved.
Oh and to further elaborate on the acoustic tone. It was very rich and wooly
right up my alley. Highs were very present but not overly harsh or crisp. Lots of harmonics and it got me very excited.
In retrospect, I was working with limited tools. I used a forstner to bore out for the ferrule and the set I have is American/English. The ferrule on the other hand appears to have been metric. Alas, I had to use a couple hard taps and on one of them I heard a crack... I then proceeded to tap the rest in after moving the sander to the floor and having the body fully over the bench. I'm assuming that the pressure from the corner caused it to cave in there. Haste makes waste. Luckily, I figured out a fix. Interestingly the break happened along the grain and proved once again that glue joints are stronger than the wood.
I don't have pictures of the gluing process, but I used dabs of CA in gaps of the wood glue to help set the joints prior to mild clamping. Held in place for 30 seconds, then went about clamping. Worked like a charm. I googled using ca and wood glue and a video popped up of using the ca like a clamp for the wood glue.
The only thing now is to see if it maintained structural integrity. I did string it up to tune and intonate the strings without the section there. No issues to speak of, so in regard to usability I don't see it being an issue. If I see issues down the line, I can always fab up a wing and glue it on as a replacement.
I've heard it said here before. But the most interesting parts in these builds is how mishaps and issues are resolved.
Oh and to further elaborate on the acoustic tone. It was very rich and wooly
right up my alley. Highs were very present but not overly harsh or crisp. Lots of harmonics and it got me very excited.
Nice recovery.So while in haste to make progress in my limited time slot, I was tapping down a neck screw ferrule. I had limited space on the bench due to the sander. Instead of taking the sander off, I allowed some of the body to hang off the corner edge of the bench. I assumed since most of the force would be over the solid strip down the center of the body that I should be fine.
In retrospect, I was working with limited tools. I used a forstner to bore out for the ferrule and the set I have is American/English. The ferrule on the other hand appears to have been metric. Alas, I had to use a couple hard taps and on one of them I heard a crack... I then proceeded to tap the rest in after moving the sander to the floor and having the body fully over the bench. I'm assuming that the pressure from the corner caused it to cave in there. Haste makes waste. Luckily, I figured out a fix. Interestingly the break happened along the grain and proved once again that glue joints are stronger than the wood.
I don't have pictures of the gluing process, but I used dabs of CA in gaps of the wood glue to help set the joints prior to mild clamping. Held in place for 30 seconds, then went about clamping. Worked like a charm. I googled using ca and wood glue and a video popped up of using the ca like a clamp for the wood glue.
The only thing now is to see if it maintained structural integrity. I did string it up to tune and intonate the strings without the section there. No issues to speak of, so in regard to usability I don't see it being an issue. If I see issues down the line, I can always fab up a wing and glue it on as a replacement.
I've heard it said here before. But the most interesting parts in these builds is how mishaps and issues are resolved.
Oh and to further elaborate on the acoustic tone. It was very rich and wooly
Thanks guys, I admit the moment of realization was one of the longest minutes of my life. Let out some "man oh man oh man" and some expletives then said "not today!" once I realized I could possibly recover.
It's crunch time, I don't think it'll be finished completely and finalized, but it'll be finished and gigable. Sadly the electronics will be simplified a little, and I will be going back to finish at a later date as well as probably re-doing the f hole. But here's the update from last week.
Here's the recovery photo post gluing. Luckily the break was fairly clean. Only one spot had splinters which I can just fill with dust and wood glue.
It came out real well, just had to sand out some excess glue on the back side.
Here it is neck mounted, strung up and intonated.
I then went to work and finished the neck screw ferrules and contoured the back of the upper horn just a tad as well as shape the side of the neck pocket. I plan on just using solvent to wipe any finish off of them. Very snug fit to say the least.
I had a lot more time and sanded out the lower horn contour to reach the upper frets. Some PRS influence. Then worked on the carve on the cap. Came out very SG like to me. Very comfortable.
All in all pretty good! Sand the cedar isn't bad, but drilling, boring, and filing it is a real pain. Lots of tear out and splintering on the underside.
I'll have another update for what I did yesterday up sooner than later.
The hardest part this whole time has been the hand skills to get everything finished a fit properly. My carving, filing and sanding skills have lots of room for improvement. It was expected, but not to the degree I'm learning it is. There will be an excellent example of such in the next update.
Here's the recovery photo post gluing. Luckily the break was fairly clean. Only one spot had splinters which I can just fill with dust and wood glue.
It came out real well, just had to sand out some excess glue on the back side.
Here it is neck mounted, strung up and intonated.
I then went to work and finished the neck screw ferrules and contoured the back of the upper horn just a tad as well as shape the side of the neck pocket. I plan on just using solvent to wipe any finish off of them. Very snug fit to say the least.
I had a lot more time and sanded out the lower horn contour to reach the upper frets. Some PRS influence. Then worked on the carve on the cap. Came out very SG like to me. Very comfortable.
All in all pretty good! Sand the cedar isn't bad, but drilling, boring, and filing it is a real pain. Lots of tear out and splintering on the underside.
I'll have another update for what I did yesterday up sooner than later.
The hardest part this whole time has been the hand skills to get everything finished a fit properly. My carving, filing and sanding skills have lots of room for improvement. It was expected, but not to the degree I'm learning it is. There will be an excellent example of such in the next update.
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I've come to the realization that this will be completed for the build off, but I'm starting to cut short some steps and skipping others...for the most part it's the sanding and fine tuning, but also just moving quickly through each step has created some damage/unsatisfactory results.
In all actuality this bass was to be a working prototype, but I wanted it to be nice enough to gig/present. I digress...
Sunday's progress was good:
Got the string ferrules finished up minimal issues, although I should have put some tape down for tear out.
You can see I also did a 1/4" round over on the back. I also decided to keep the belly contour as is instead of enlarging it. It felt good, no need to take more wood off. Especially since I feel like I've already pushed the structural limits of the wood and design.
Worked on and cut the f hole. Very sloppy I admit, I probably will make a template in future builds. With the time constraints I free handed the whole thing and it turned out okay with some compromises. My filing, router, and sanding skills aren't all there for something as difficult as that.
A thanks to @Dadagoboi for presenting the minwax wood hardener as a filler, etc. Stuff works great, very easy to use and a definite noticable improvement in the pine and cedar's hardness. Oh and did I mention it fills the pores? I wiped it on to see how it would work and sure enough 15min it was coated nicely. Brought out a nice amber color.
Dried quickly and if I had the time I would have started painting.
To finish off Sunday I started working on the pickguard. I plan to eventually use a gold anodized brush aluminum pg, but I want to vet out the shape and everything's placement with this white one.
Now for today's progress...I did lots of sanding, fixed up the f hole and filled chip outs. Then taped and sprayed the primer I was able to get 4-5 coats on in a short time. Film looks solid overall, should be enough.
And the last coat drying inside.
I'll say this about painting in 38° weather...it works, just not as well as you'd like. Flash time is way longer so you have to be patient. Luckily the paint won't sag as easily either. Downside is flow and atomization are thrown off. One trick I did use was warming the can inside prior to spraying.
Anyway I figured there's enough paint down to sand out the wave and patches of orange peel from the wood filler and can glue. I'm guessing it's a compatibility issue, but with enough film it can be sanded flat.
In all actuality this bass was to be a working prototype, but I wanted it to be nice enough to gig/present. I digress...
Sunday's progress was good:
Got the string ferrules finished up minimal issues, although I should have put some tape down for tear out.
You can see I also did a 1/4" round over on the back. I also decided to keep the belly contour as is instead of enlarging it. It felt good, no need to take more wood off. Especially since I feel like I've already pushed the structural limits of the wood and design.
Worked on and cut the f hole. Very sloppy I admit, I probably will make a template in future builds. With the time constraints I free handed the whole thing and it turned out okay with some compromises. My filing, router, and sanding skills aren't all there for something as difficult as that.
A thanks to @Dadagoboi for presenting the minwax wood hardener as a filler, etc. Stuff works great, very easy to use and a definite noticable improvement in the pine and cedar's hardness. Oh and did I mention it fills the pores? I wiped it on to see how it would work and sure enough 15min it was coated nicely. Brought out a nice amber color.
Dried quickly and if I had the time I would have started painting.
To finish off Sunday I started working on the pickguard. I plan to eventually use a gold anodized brush aluminum pg, but I want to vet out the shape and everything's placement with this white one.
Now for today's progress...I did lots of sanding, fixed up the f hole and filled chip outs. Then taped and sprayed the primer I was able to get 4-5 coats on in a short time. Film looks solid overall, should be enough.
And the last coat drying inside.
I'll say this about painting in 38° weather...it works, just not as well as you'd like. Flash time is way longer so you have to be patient. Luckily the paint won't sag as easily either. Downside is flow and atomization are thrown off. One trick I did use was warming the can inside prior to spraying.
Anyway I figured there's enough paint down to sand out the wave and patches of orange peel from the wood filler and can glue. I'm guessing it's a compatibility issue, but with enough film it can be sanded flat.
- Jul 1, 2005
- 4,292
- 21,942
- 80
- Disclosures
- CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
Another teaser...getting some cloudiness probably due to the nozzle on the cans I'm using (they were meant to touch up small defects), very small fan the size of a quarter in size and shape. Also the temp and humidity doesn't help...I intend to pick up a conventional can to give it a go. Headstock is great!
That or when I go back on a later date to put faux binding I'll redo the basecoat.
That or when I go back on a later date to put faux binding I'll redo the basecoat.
I don't know maybe I sprayed it too dry. I don't deal with this kind of defect in OEM auto coatings.
Anyone have any experience with this kind of defect?
Anyone have any experience with this kind of defect?
- Jul 1, 2005
- 4,292
- 21,942
- 80
- Disclosures
- CataldoBasses: Designer/Builder ThunderBuckerPickups:Consultant
Temp and humidity are the usual culprits. Humidity #1, especially with low temps.
That's what I was leaning to, sadly with the Michigan weather right now I probably can't finish it properly.
I was optimistic because it looked good in the wet. No worries though, I can always redo it another time.
FCA blue streak pearl. Paint code PCL, you can find it on Ram 1500 classics (previous generation, still being made though). I work with PPG and see trucks painted with it everyday. Fantastic color, in certain lights and angles it can take on a violet hue and the flop on the flake looks great at most angles.
I'll try to grab a picture of a unit with it in the sun today.
I'll try to grab a picture of a unit with it in the sun today.
So here's the body finished in the wet and then dried from yesterday. Sucks when it looks good, but then flash off is improper, not to mention spraying conditions. I used a propane heater to get the garage up to 60°F but between when I shut it off and finished spraying it looks like the air sucked up a lot of humidity, but then dropped in temp.
I had to take care of my kids all last night, didn't get any time this morning. I'll be able to get some work done around 8pm tonight, but that won't give me any time to refinish it. I'll do so on a later date as well as improving/adjusting the electronics...
I had to take care of my kids all last night, didn't get any time this morning. I'll be able to get some work done around 8pm tonight, but that won't give me any time to refinish it. I'll do so on a later date as well as improving/adjusting the electronics...
