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Winter Build Off 2018 - 54 P bass inspired 5 String
- Thread starter GMC
- Start date
A very attractive combination of woods, looking forward to more pictures!
24 frets later...the fingerboard is now fretted and the edges are filed flush. Thankfully this time with only a few marks on my fingers. Last time I did this...it was like a Tarantino movie...
I use a Stewmac fret arbor to file down the fret tang thickness on my fret wire so that it doesn't need heavy hammering to press into the slots. This saves the fret wire from distorting under the hammer or getting flat spots. This particular genus of Rosewood seems quite hard compared to other Rosewoods I've used previously. I also use a triangular file to V taper a groove to the top of the fret slot. This helps secure the fret wire better and guides it into the slots more predictably. It also (in theory) helps with fret wire removal too.
I use a Stewmac fret arbor to file down the fret tang thickness on my fret wire so that it doesn't need heavy hammering to press into the slots. This saves the fret wire from distorting under the hammer or getting flat spots. This particular genus of Rosewood seems quite hard compared to other Rosewoods I've used previously. I also use a triangular file to V taper a groove to the top of the fret slot. This helps secure the fret wire better and guides it into the slots more predictably. It also (in theory) helps with fret wire removal too.
Gratuitous Depth of field shot...one at f1.4 and the other at f22
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Very nice, @GMC! I thought it cool when you were working the radius of the fretboard, with the block/sandpaper, too...
... always wondered how that was done, by hand. Thanks!
... always wondered how that was done, by hand. Thanks!
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,020
- 1
- 31,740
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Gotta say, I know a lot about a lot of things, but almost nothing about photography, so it’s fun to hear about the lens settings and f stops, ‘cause it sails right over the top of my head. But the shots sure are pretty!
I fitted a new 60 grit sanding disc and sanding roll to my sanding machine and took the opportunity to clean it out and clear the vaccum breathers. It was really caked on in there!
I then removed the guards and stared to profile the neck. I used my router table to mill off 1/4" from the back of the neck and then started the slow, dusty and noisy process of machining the neck profile.
I then removed the guards and stared to profile the neck. I used my router table to mill off 1/4" from the back of the neck and then started the slow, dusty and noisy process of machining the neck profile.
Progress has been a little slow for the last few months. But I have cleaned up the heel and neck to headstock area. Wenge, Purpleheart and Padouk aren't the easiest woods to carve. I think it's close to where I want it. It's a nice curve and hopefully quite strong.
Been a bit busy with work, which kind of trailed off this weekend. So i'm hoping to press ahead this coming week. I think the only thing I did last week was move the neck around my workshop a few times and lemon oiled the fret board.
Firstly, I re-sanded / ground a tighter radius to the drop from the fretboard to the top surface of the headstock. This was quite time consuming as I don't yet have a sanding machine with a long thin bobbin. So I did it by hand with some 60 grit wrapped around a thin can. It's hard to make a hand sand look machined...but it's important when a 1950's production line machined bass is it's inspiration.
Then I needed to change the heel of the body again so that it matched the neck profile I had cut previously. I preferred the old heel...but I cut the fingerboard radius too far into the heel...so I needed to adjust the body end to match.
Then I set up a neck jig to cut the neck pocket more accurately.
Then I needed to change the heel of the body again so that it matched the neck profile I had cut previously. I preferred the old heel...but I cut the fingerboard radius too far into the heel...so I needed to adjust the body end to match.
Then I set up a neck jig to cut the neck pocket more accurately.
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I then used a bottom baring template router bit and cut the pocket. It's a nice and accurate way of working...as long as the template panels don't move. I cut it quite shallow...so I have material to lower later when I can work more accurately on neck depth. I have a specific shallow router template bit for that task. The router bit leaves a nice radius in the corners...which I quite like...but it's a bit too '70's Fender for this bass, which needs square edges to it's fingerboard...so I got out my sharp chisels and whittled away. I also cut a grove / recess for the truss rod access. This will need to go deeper when I lower the neck pocket...but it's fine for the moment. The neck fits nicely...quite loose at the moment. Once I have the body and neck lacquered, this gap will close up and probably be quite tight.
This bass is progressing quite well. The wood work is nearing the end. It won't be long until I need to order some rattle cans for the finish.
This bass is progressing quite well. The wood work is nearing the end. It won't be long until I need to order some rattle cans for the finish.
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Question: Maybe I missed it, but is that pickup route in the "right spot"? Looks closer to the neck than I'd expect.
Well observed. It's exactly in the right single coil P bass pickup up spot. But this is a 24 fret / double octave neck...so the neck pushes into the body further. A 21 fret neck is the normal requirement. This bass is inspired by a 54 P bass...but not a copy. So I have a fair amount of creative and artistic licence to vary the design to accommodate some more modern features....while keeping the ethos in the same genre. A 2 octave 5 string neck was a must for this particular bass and has actually caused a fair amount of headaches getting the body wider, the neck pocket deeper and the lower horn / upper fret access to look like a 54...but actually be completely different. There isn't a single curve on this bass that is actually a 54 body curve. But to my eyes, it really looks very similar. Even the neck is non-standard and a unique design...while keeping with a Leo 3+2 head stock layout.
Lol...and now I'm moving house....it's gonna be a while until I have my workshop moved...unpacked and back working....
Well...we moved in but the new house needed an entire new kitchen and bathroom suites. That work is all complete and I now have my garage back. I now have a working space to re-start this project! Yay!
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,020
- 1
- 31,740
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
