I made my template from a picture of one of his first pachyderm basses. I personally like this design over his current ones.
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Winter Build Off 2026 - Colonel Hathi
- Thread starter postalflunkie
- Start date
Things to do between coats of finish...
Load up the pickguard.
Love how easy the concentric pot is to wire up (I'll still have to attach the ground when I solder in the pickup leads). I've also taken a liking to sterio jacks, the extra ground connection helps prevent crackling noises at the jack as it gets worn in.
Load up the pickguard.
Love how easy the concentric pot is to wire up (I'll still have to attach the ground when I solder in the pickup leads). I've also taken a liking to sterio jacks, the extra ground connection helps prevent crackling noises at the jack as it gets worn in.
- Dec 21, 2007
- 15,222
- 45,014
- Disclosures
- Lark in the Morning Instructional Videos; Audix Microphones
This looks great, meets your "Claypool vibe" goal really well, and has the coolest name of any bass ever. Unless someone has built "Bagheera" or "Shere Khan"
Getting close with this one. I've got 8 coats of tung-oil on and its had twelve days to cure. I got my buffer out and first hit it with Meguires scratch-X followed by hand buffing with a clean rag to get all the residue off. Next I gave it two coats of Renaissance wax allowing each coat to dry about a half hour before buffing with a sheep skin pad and hand buffing in all the nooks and crannys
I figured since this doesn't have all the wiring of my other build, that I'd start asembly. First was to get the ferrules pressed in the back.
Then the anchors for the bridge (I remembered the ground wire
). I was happy to see that it lined up right, the bridge slipped right on the posts, but then I had to file off a little of the edge of the route towards the neck to get it to seat all the way down. I added the front ferrules (eyelets from the hobby store), and screwed in the strap buttons.
Also got the control cavity shielded
I figured since this doesn't have all the wiring of my other build, that I'd start asembly. First was to get the ferrules pressed in the back.
Then the anchors for the bridge (I remembered the ground wire
). I was happy to see that it lined up right, the bridge slipped right on the posts, but then I had to file off a little of the edge of the route towards the neck to get it to seat all the way down. I added the front ferrules (eyelets from the hobby store), and screwed in the strap buttons.Also got the control cavity shielded
Nearing the finish on the Colonel!
Got the Spertzel tuners lined up tith the centerline, marked and drilled out for the alignment peg, then tightened them all down.
Then the soldering iron came out and the pickup and ground wire to the bridge got attached. Then screwed everything down.
And lastly put the strings on.
I'm going to let this sit for a few days to settle under tension, but right now it only needs a little adjustment at the truss rod. I'll also have to work on the nut slots a bit and probably raise the bridge some.
Last thing to consider is do I put a truss rod cover on or not? I kind of like it without one, but...
Oh, and by the way, even with the flats on it it has an aggressive and punchy tone. It's going to be a fun one for sure
Got the Spertzel tuners lined up tith the centerline, marked and drilled out for the alignment peg, then tightened them all down.
Then the soldering iron came out and the pickup and ground wire to the bridge got attached. Then screwed everything down.
And lastly put the strings on.
I'm going to let this sit for a few days to settle under tension, but right now it only needs a little adjustment at the truss rod. I'll also have to work on the nut slots a bit and probably raise the bridge some.
Last thing to consider is do I put a truss rod cover on or not? I kind of like it without one, but...
Oh, and by the way, even with the flats on it it has an aggressive and punchy tone. It's going to be a fun one for sure
Doesn't need a TR cover, but that w/b/tort pickguard material, with a little hook like the headstock, might look cool
Headstock options, what's everybody think?
Option 1, no truss rod cover
Option 2, Symmetrical truss rod cover
Option 3, Asymmetrical truss rod cover
For what its worth, option 3 is more like an original pachyderm bass
Option 1, no truss rod cover
Option 2, Symmetrical truss rod cover
Option 3, Asymmetrical truss rod cover
For what its worth, option 3 is more like an original pachyderm bass
I like #3, but I would like to see #2 just slimmed down a hair to get it away from the tuner bushing. I know there isn't a lot of room to work with. 
I'm leaning towards #3
Once I beveled the edges to show the black & white laminations it became a no brainer.
Ok, back to the mater of the fret lines.
The position markers on the side are done the same way using the blunt end of a size smaller drill bit to pack the powder in.
A UV flashlight charges them up in no time, and they last longer the more you expose them to UV
Once I beveled the edges to show the black & white laminations it became a no brainer.
Ok, back to the mater of the fret lines.
The slots were cut just like normal as if I was going to put frets in, but probably twice as deep. Then the slots were throughly cleaned out. I use a little soft plastic bottle with a fine metal tip to fill the slots with glow powder, use an exacto blade to pack it down then repeat until the slot is filled. Then saturate the line with water thin CA glue. Before the glue dries I give the slot a light dusting with more glow powder (this fills any low spots). After the fingerboard has had a day for all the CA glue to harden I sand the radius onto the board like normal.
The position markers on the side are done the same way using the blunt end of a size smaller drill bit to pack the powder in.
A UV flashlight charges them up in no time, and they last longer the more you expose them to UV
I've been noodling around on this and just can't get enough. Stainless flats on this katalox board is just plain heavenly, and the Duncan quarter pounder seems to be a perfect match. Now if only my fretless abilities were up to snuff
Here's my submission for the WBO26, Unfinished Business catigory.
Specifications
Body: Mahogany with figured cherry top
Neck: Three piece mahogany, neck-thru, double action truss rod
Finger Board: Katalox, 29 lined "frets" (white glow-in-the-dark), GraphTech nut, red glow-in-the-dark side dots
Finger board radius: 9.5 inch
Scale Length: 32 inch
Headstock: 2+2, 11° angle
Tuners: Spertzel, locking
Bridge: All Parts chrome Tune-o-matic, string thru body
Pickups: Seymour Duncan 1/4 pound P-bass
Electronics: Passive, concentric Volume/Tone
Finish: Tung-oil, Renaissance wax
Strings: Fender stainless steel flatwounds .050-.100
Weight: 7.5lbs
Other:
Gotoh oversize strap buttons.
Four ply tort pickguard.
Green (faux) naugahide strap
Specifications
Body: Mahogany with figured cherry top
Neck: Three piece mahogany, neck-thru, double action truss rod
Finger Board: Katalox, 29 lined "frets" (white glow-in-the-dark), GraphTech nut, red glow-in-the-dark side dots
Finger board radius: 9.5 inch
Scale Length: 32 inch
Headstock: 2+2, 11° angle
Tuners: Spertzel, locking
Bridge: All Parts chrome Tune-o-matic, string thru body
Pickups: Seymour Duncan 1/4 pound P-bass
Electronics: Passive, concentric Volume/Tone
Finish: Tung-oil, Renaissance wax
Strings: Fender stainless steel flatwounds .050-.100
Weight: 7.5lbs
Other:
Gotoh oversize strap buttons.
Four ply tort pickguard.
Green (faux) naugahide strap
Wow, That came out fantastic, very clean, precise build. Love the pickguard shape. Maybe it's just me, but the big upper horn on my Ric builds is a great "tuning fork", if the bass isn't plugged in, I just rest my jaw on the upper horn, and it makes your hold head into Tuner. Weird, huh? Try it!
Great build. And your choice of green naugahyde didn't go unnoticed. Well done.
