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Wiring Diagram for Jazz Parallel/Series Config

Fret Boiler

Fret Boiler

Pity World
Apr 12, 2004
98
1
Purdue University
www.myspace.com
#1
I am right in the middle of various mods on my Jazz bass, one of them is adding a push/pull pot for switching between parallel and series p/up arrangement. I noticed that there is some very good information here about how to do this, yet (as a novice) I had trouble finding decent wiring diagrams to assist me.

Anyway, I had some time and thought I'd post a diagram showing both the standard (classic) parallel wiring along side with changes that are needed to add parallel/series switching. The pull/push pot shown comes right out of StewMac, and I hope the diagrams and accompanying pictures help anyone else who is considering this mod.

Regards
 
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#5
Fret Boiler said:
I am right in the middle of various mods on my Jazz bass, one of them is adding a push/pull pot for switching between parallel and series p/up arrangement. I noticed that there is some very good information here about how to do this, yet (as a novice) I had trouble finding decent wiring diagrams to assist me.

Anyway, I had some time and thought I'd post a diagram showing both the standard (classic) parallel wiring along side with changes that are needed to add parallel/series switching. The pull/push pot shown comes right out of StewMac, and I hope the diagrams and accompanying pictures help anyone else who is considering this mod.

Regards
Click to expand...

Thanks Fret Boiler.. I just added this thread to the Pickup FAQ here at the top of this forum.
 
#6
A few months ago, I added a push/pull switch to my MIM, and the series tone rocks! However, I'd like to go to a master volume, master tone, a bridge/neck blender, and the push/pull. I've looked around for a diagram to get me started, but no luck so far. Any ideas on where I could look for a diagram like this?
 
#10
You're welcome. I put in a 3PDT mini switch so the blend pot is bypassed when in series. That way if you have the blend pot set to give more bridge pickup than neck in parallel, the volume doesn't drop when you go to series. And when you go back to parallel, you'll be back to whatever blend setting you were using before.

You don't have to use a separate switch (the above is only doable with a 3PDT or 4PDT switch, which aren't available on a push/pull pot), but you'd have to change your blend a lot when going back and forth to series. In that case the neck pickup hot lead would go to the lower middle lug on the blend pot.
 
#11
i have ACTIVE EMG P/J set. it has 2 volume controls and 1 tone... i really dont' like having 2 seperate controls for each pickup. is there a way to put in a "blend" pot so i have a vol-blend-tone thing going on? i saw the diagram but i dont' know if it works for my situation, being active pickups and no push/pull pot and all... muchas thank yous
 
#13
Lyle, upon closer inspection of your diagram I have a question or two. First, is there a reason you suggest a 500k blend pot? Will a 250k work just as well? Second, on the actual diagram I noticed on the bottom right side of the toggle you have a red wire running from two of the pins. Is this necessary? Also, is there a specific reason you have one p'up grounded to the toggle and one to the jack? Finally, do you have a larger version you could email me of that diagram?

Oh yeah, one more sttttuuuuppppiiiiddd question. Is there a specific direction you wire the toggle? I mean, if I follow the diagram I can't wire it upside down, right?

thanks again
 
#14
Beav,

I suggest a 500K blend pot because each pickup will "see" the resistance of four pots, the volume, the blend (two pots, really), and the tone. This can make a blend circuit darker than stock if the blend is 250K. But a 250K blend pot will work.

The red wire on the bottom right of the toggle is a jumper that will connect the neck negative lead to the bridge positive lead when the switch is in series. This is very necessary.

The neck negative is attached to the toggle so that it connects to the bridge pickup in series but goes to ground in parallel. The bridge pickup always goes to ground, so it goes to the negative lug of the output jack (used as a common ground in the diagram- you'd also want to attach the bridge ground to this lug if your bass isn't fully shielded and the shield tied to ground).

I'll email you a larger version tomorrow if you'll remind me at some point. Too tired tonight.

If you wire everything exactly as shown, you will have no problems. When the switch is down, the circuit is in parallel (normal J mode). When the switch is up, the circuit is in series.
 

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