Wiring Ground Hole Missing

[Matt Liebenau]

Also, when drilling, be careful not to hit a mojo pocket.
If you do, you'll never be able to love that bass again.
I know this from personal experience.

Most bass bodies have the mojo pocket far enough away from the bridge that it’s not an issue but you do have to be careful with some of the newer imports. Something in the metric to inch conversion. Sometimes the mojo gets put in the wrong spot.

 

[Englishman]

I've done the long drill through the rear strap spot up to the pickup cavity before and then drilled down under the bridge position to hit that passage. Had to use a plug at the bottom and then install the strap button.
Also went right through the back of the bass the first time I tried doing the Pbass angle hole :/

 

[sxaxsx]

Your picture shows the control cavity, but I feel like I have seen bass bodies with the ground hole running from the pickup cavity, are you sure there isn't a hole there? We can't see this from the picture.

 

[Lou Bottini]

Thanks for all the advice guys and Stumbo for every link imaginable. Good stuff. My thinking was to cut a wood chunk at the proper angle to use as a guide and clamp it to the body during drilling, using a 1/8" x 12" drill bit (if there is such a thing). Helpful if I could find a couple small tubing clamps to attach to the wedge. Using a chop saw cut a wedge at length X depth?
I dunno. I'm pretty nervous about this project and messing up a $450. body. My repair guy doesn't want to do it. But then again, Fender is selling finished replacement bodies for $170. just in case (Musicians Friend).

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

Most bass bodies have the mojo pocket far enough away from the bridge that it’s not an issue but you do have to be careful with some of the newer imports. Something in the metric to inch conversion. Sometimes the mojo gets put in the wrong spot.

That is correct.

The better basses have at least one pocket under the strings near the playing position where it does the most good.
The really crappy ones either don't have any, or they just stuff some in with the electronics, which is less effective.
In that case, if you open up the control panel it all gets out.

Fortunately places like Stew-Mac sell replacements, but sometimes it doesn't take.
It's kind if like rejecting an organ transplant.
The best stuff is what occurs naturally.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Bosch BL2735 1/8 In. x 12 In. Extra Length Aircraft Black Oxide Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AHSVGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cGjBAb39F8WEV

 

[Matt Liebenau]

1/8” is a good size for a ground wire. They’re called an aircraft bit. Not sure about Home Depot but the Ace and TruValue stores around here have them. I will sometimes start the bit more or less straight up and down and start the hole so it makes maybe just deeper than a dimple then angle the bit over and start drilling through to the cavity. The edge of the dimple gives the bit something to bite on instead of trying to get it to go through the flat top of the body at an angle. I’ve also just started a hole with a 1/4” Forstner bit to do the same thing.

I can try and take some pictures if that doesn’t make sense.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Here's how I do it:

Drill a shallow hole with a small (3/8" or 1/2") forstner.
Use the inside corner of that shallow hole to press the long 1/8" drill bit into.
Drill through to the cavity.
Make a grounding tail by soldering a small flap of copper tape to a grounding wire.
Stick the wire through and stick the copper tape to the surface of the body beneath the bridge, such that the solder joint fits completely inside the forstner hole.

 

[Old Garage-Bander]

I've done the long drill through the rear strap spot up to the pickup cavity before and then drilled down under the bridge position to hit that passage. Had to use a plug at the bottom and then install the strap button.
Also went right through the back of the bass the first time I tried doing the Pbass angle hole :/

I like this idea a lot better than trying to drill at a shallow angle from the control cavity. From a clumsy woodworker (me) standpoint, that seems to have a much higher percentage of success.

 

[Lou Bottini]

Bosch BL2735 1/8 In. x 12 In. Extra Length Aircraft Black Oxide Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AHSVGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cGjBAb39F8WEV

Thanks! Bought it.

 

[Lou Bottini]

Here's how I do it:

Drill a shallow hole with a small (3/8" or 1/2") forstner.
Use the inside corner of that shallow hole to press the long 1/8" drill bit into.
Drill through to the cavity.
Make a grounding tail by soldering a small flap of copper tape to a grounding wire.
Stick the wire through and stick the copper tape to the surface of the body beneath the bridge, such that the solder joint fits completely inside the forstner hole.

Excellent! Now thats a confidence builder. Plus Ive already ordered copper tape and vintage cloth wire to clean things up.

 

[WardEarth]

I think 1/4" would be a bit overkill for a ground wire.

Why? 1/4" has enough rigidity that you won't break the bit. 3/16 would probably work as well but I wouldn't go any smaller. You'll make a lot more work for yourself when you have a broken bit stuck in your bass.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I’ve done it with a long bit on a home brew build, nail biter for sure, compounded by the fact that just because you start at the right angle, doesn’t mean you’ll finish that way. Sometimes the bit will just wander. I have see it done with a plywood jig by somebody on TB, like a giant Krieg pocket hole jig, but most people just eyeball it. I thought the copper strap on old Fenders IS the ground strap? They look kinda retro cool.
Genuine FENDER USA JAZZ BASS BRASS Bridge Grounding Ground STRAP Vintage Reissue | eBay

 

[Lou Bottini]

I’ve done it with a long bit on a home brew build, nail biter for sure, compounded by the fact that just because you start at the right angle, doesn’t mean you’ll finish that way. Sometimes the bit will just wander. I have see it done with a plywood jig by somebody on TB, like a giant Krieg pocket hole jig, but most people just eyeball it. I thought the copper strap on old Fenders IS the ground strap? They look kinda retro cool.
Genuine FENDER USA JAZZ BASS BRASS Bridge Grounding Ground STRAP Vintage Reissue | eBay

I like the ground strap on my '62 reissue Jazz but it would be too long on a Precision. Plus, originally the bridge pickup and bridge were covered by a giant chrome ashtray.

 

[ddnidd1]

If the OP is that concerned about screwing up - instead of paying for a drill bit to be used once, contact a luthier or decent tech to drill the hole for you.

For someone who is handy with tools and has some experience this is not a major project.

If there is already $450 into the body, what's a few more bucks not to have to worry about ruining it.

 

[Lou Bottini]

If the OP is that concerned about screwing up - instead of paying for a drill bit to be used once, contact a luthier or decent tech to drill the hole for you.

For someone who is handy with tools and has some experience this is not a major project.

If there is already $450 into the body, what's a few more bucks not to have to worry about ruining it.

If I could have found a pro close by to drill it out it would be done but nobody wants to mess with a finished body around here. Hammerhed sent a an Amazon link for an 1/8"x12" bit for $5. Done. Delivery tomorrow. I'm also going to use his method. So far - $6 copper tape, $7.50 vintage cloth wire & $5. drill bit and fingernail biting.
Thank you guys for all the great input. I love this forum.

 

[Maryvillebass]

Hamerheads method by far seems the safest, and i like your idea about having an angle guide... kinda like a miter saw or something. I think you got this!

 

[fhm555]

From the top of the bass, measure down into the cavity to where you want the hole to come out, this will be the vertical leg of your right triangle. Now mark where you want the hole to start and measure in a straight line from there to the edge of the cavity directly above where you want the hole to be, this will be the horizontal leg of your right triangle. Once you are happy with your dimensions draw and cut out your triangle from some stout paper or thin cardboard and use that as a drill guide by placing it with the point of the long side just behind the start point of your hole and the hypotenuse lined up with the path you want the drill to follow, and tape it in place. Then line up your drill bit using the template/guide and start your hole. As has been pointed out, once the hole is started it is difficult to change the angle, plus you can check your progress with your template.
Tape up the entire area with blue low tac masking tape to guard against an “aw poopie” moment, then take your time and drill your hole. You need to clamp the body so it can’t move, but a countertop backsplash with a temporary pad to prevent scratches you can put the body up against, or a friend with a strong grip will work just as well.
You are not in a race and you are not being paid by the piece so take your time and make double sure you like what you have at each step before you go to the next step. Accurate measurements are critical as is the template you make from them, the rest is just taking your time and not letting it get the best of you. As my favorite food guy said so many times, your patience will be rewarded.

 

[Deepdelver]

Two more things that hadn't mentioned as far as I noticed:
1. Better protect the top with a piece of wood or plastic. A chuck rubbing over the surface will cause real damage to the finish. (most likely to happen when you hit the pocket and you have no more resistance)
2. Pull out the drill often to get out the dust. If the bit is clogged its more likely that it doesn't go the direction you want it to and /or it will get too hot.

 

[WardEarth]

If I could have found a pro close by to drill it out it would be done but nobody wants to mess with a finished body around here. Hammerhed sent a an Amazon link for an 1/8"x12" bit for $5. Done. Delivery tomorrow. I'm also going to use his method. So far - $6 copper tape, $7.50 vintage cloth wire & $5. drill bit and fingernail biting.
Thank you guys for all the great input. I love this forum.

I seriously think 1/8 inch is asking for trouble. One wrong move as you're drilling and snap, time to grind off the drill bit sticking out of your bass.