Wiring Ground Hole Missing

[JoeWPgh]

I would not use anything smaller than a 3/16 bit, but would prefer a 1/4. The idea of it breaking is one problem. But a bigger problem with a long skinny bit is it flexing off in an unknown direction if it finds a soft area in the wood.

 

[Beej]

I've used a 1/8" brad point bit for years and never had a problem or a broken bit.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I've got an 1/8" aircraft bit that I've used on at least 10.or 12 bodies with no issues. Go slow and back the bit out regularly to keep it clear.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Yeah, I've not had that problem either with a 1/8" bit. You're really only drilling maybe 2 or 3 inches. You need the extra length so you can lay the drill over at an angle so you don't gouge the top of the instrument with the drill chuck.

 

[JoeWPgh]

It also helps to drill a shallow, wider hole with a forstner to get started

 

[jamro217]

I've done the long drill through the rear strap spot up to the pickup cavity before and then drilled down under the bridge position to hit that passage. Had to use a plug at the bottom and then install the strap button.
Also went right through the back of the bass the first time I tried doing the Pbass angle hole :/

^^^^^^This.

 

[pudge]

If it's a nice body why chance screwing it up. Find a reapir/build guy and let him do it.A few $$$ spend will save a lot of trouble.

 

[Stumbo]

Why wasn't this caught before painting? Just curious.

Seems like it should be standard for the paint person to catch something like this.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Yes. Don't bother learning how to do anything for yourself. Just pay someone else to do your knowing for you.

 

[Lou Bottini]

Why wasn't this caught before painting? Just curious.

Seems like it should be standard for the paint person to catch something like this.

After finishing by Wilkins, the body was assembled by the builder then delivered to me as a completed bass. My mistake. I assumed the ground would have been installed by the builder. An oversight? Drunk? I dunno. This was the responsibility of the builder, not Wilkins.

Not important at this point. I just need to drill a freakin' hole without blasting through the back of the body. I do appreciate all the input and advice on this little project. TY everyone.

 

[FunkHead]

After finishing by Wilkins, the body was assembled by the builder then delivered to me as a completed bass. My mistake. I assumed the ground would have been installed by the builder. An oversight? Drunk? I dunno. This was the responsibility of the builder, not Wilkins.

Not important at this point. I just need to drill a freakin' hole without blasting through the back of the body. I do appreciate all the input and advice on this little project. TY everyone.

I did exactly what you are about to once. It went smooth as glass. I just drilled straight down to get through the finish. Then I angled the bit and eyeballed it into the control cavity. It's really simple stuff.....

 

[jamro217]

The length or route taken by a ground wire isn't crucial to its effectiveness. A marred finish isn't worth risking over it. Get an aircraft drill bit at least 10" long by as small a diameter as the bottom strap button hole. After removing the bridge pickup, drill straight through the bottom strap button hole until you reach the pickup cavity. Here's where you can afford to widen or line up holes without damaging the instrument. Drill another hole straight down from under the bridge to the point where the previously drilled hole is. Pinpointing this should be easy enough, since both ends of the hole are visible. Ground the bridge and feed the wire through the pickup cavity and into the control cavity. Voila. Hope this helps.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

I have to say this idea of grounding through the rear wrap button hole sounds like wildly overcomplicating what is really a very simple process.

Yeah you don't want to damage the finish with the drill Chuck, but it's really super easy to take simple precautions to prevent that happening. On all the guitars and basses I've built, I've never damaged the top by drilling an angled hole from under the bridge into the control cavity.

 

[Lou Bottini]

Done. Many thanks to everyone that chimed in on this topic, especially Hammerhed. Following his advice I picked up a 12" X 1/8" drill bit and a 3/8" Forstner bit. Everything went as planned, no unwanted holes in my body or the bass either. Back together after two hours labor and $16. in materials.
This thing is a Jamerson P clone (me not so much).

 

[Stumbo]

Good job! Glad it turned out for you. Cool bass.