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wiring problem, help please!
- Thread starter rwise93
- Start date
Capacitors.
The standard value would be 0.047uF, though I believe the early Fender Jazz basses with the stacked knob setup used a 0.05uF for the neck pickup and a 0.03uF for the bridge pickup.
I suspect the inexperience of the OP won't suggest to him that the 3 pot cases (the 2 caps and the bridge volume) need to be tied to the common ground of the neck volume control so they'll have an effect.
Not if you are mounted on a metal control plate or in a properly shielded control cavity.
I have this bass (Rogue LX205b) and suspect the wiring is completely gooched. I could really put good use to an accurate diagram. If it matters the volume pots seem to be swapped, and the tone pots introduce annoying noise unless only one is moved from minimum even if both volume pots are set to minimum.
A 4-knob VTVT passive bass is essentially identical to a stacked knob Jazz Bass control scheme that has been unstacked. So with that in mind, just follow the diagram here, but just pretend the pots aren't stacked:
https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/the-tone-garage/the-1962-fender-jazz-control
p.s. I find VTVT to be a rather poor way to control a bass.
https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/the-tone-garage/the-1962-fender-jazz-control
p.s. I find VTVT to be a rather poor way to control a bass.
Ok, that looks good. I’ll need to recreate the diagram to reflect my controls. One concern though, how will I know the right polarity coming from the pickups? I’m not sure the wire colors will be the same as shown in the diagram.
You'll know because when you're disconnecting it, you'll make a note of which wires are connected to a lug on the volume pot, and which ones are directly connected to the body of the pot.
It might be a good idea to inspect that, then redraw the diagram on a piece of paper, and make sure you have everything laid out perfectly before you start doing anything else.
Ok, polarity of the pickups turns out to be obvious. Assuming they are wired correctly the enter the control cavity as a pair of shielded cables with the shields soldered to ground. I took pictures but they were useless. Ditto my attempt at a diagram. One of the diagrams in the thread almost exactly parallels my setup. The wires are bound within a nylon wire tie that I haven’t removed. But cutting that and comparing the wiring to that diagram (I saved it) will make fixing things easy. One other possibility are the pots, in my Rogue they are much smaller than I’d expected. That may also be an issue. I’m guessing either a loose wire or a short, closer examination will tell which. But as it is the guitar is playable for what I need, I’ll mess with it further if and when I need to perform with it. Much thanks guys!
Ok, I feel like the most foolish of fools. I mentioned this issue with a guitar player friend of mine and he said it was the cord. Even though I was using the cord that came with the Rogue I was skeptical. He lent me a spare cord, and he’s right. So I’m ordering a replacement 10’ cord very soon. Thanks #?
