Double Bass Wolf tone eliminator for string buzz below the bridge?

[RBrownBass]

My Anima E (part of a full set) makes the bass buzz almost violently on certain notes (B on the G string, E and F on the A string) but grabbing the afterlength immediately after plucking the string stops the buzz. I need to have someone hold the string below the bridge while I play to absolutely confirm, but that's what I'm getting right now. Once/if confirmed, should I:

a) Try a new Anima A
b) use some rubber or a wolftone eliminator or something dampening to put some weight on the string so maybe it won't vibrate so much
c) Change the E to my old Mitt

Each has its drawbacks; A will be costly if I conclude that the string isn't defective, and it ma not solve the problem. B will probably dampen the string and reduce its volume, maybe reduce the volume of the whole bass. I already know that C will reduce the volume of the E- I added the Anima E to the ADG in the first place because the Spiro isn't quite as loud as the other three, played by myself and my teacher.

I'll be changing to the Mitt E for now so I can keep playing. But the full Anima set sounds louder and plays better to me. What's my best course of action for the longterm?

Thanks!

 

[RBrownBass]

BTW, I know that's a serious tension diffy between the Mitt E and the rest, but the bass seems to love it as much as I do.

 

[Dr. Love]

I'd check all over for something loose before getting another string. Do you have anything on the tailpiece like a pickup jack or quiver? It could be that grabbing the afterlength stabilizes whatever is shaking.

 

[RBrownBass]

I'd check all over for something loose before getting another string. Do you have anything on the tailpiece like a pickup jack or quiver? It could be that grabbing the afterlength stabilizes whatever is shaking.

No, nothing on the tailpiece. And the Spiro E removes the buzz, so yeah, it's the string. But the Spiro doesn't play as nice with the other three Animas as the Anima E does. I'll leave them as they are for a while and see if that changes.

But what do I do about the Anima E?

 

[Michael Case]

I would try a wolf tone eliminator on the Anima E.

 

[robobass]

N... the Spiro E removes the buzz, so yeah, it's the string. ...

I wouldn't arrive at this conclusion so hastily. It could still be a seam, crack, loose cleat, etc. which gets excited by the Anima but not by the Spiro. While you are blasting an open E, have a friend go around the bass and see if there are any other spots he can press besides the afterlength which affects the buzz. Also, maybe try the string on a different bass?

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Doesn't the Anima have that tube at the junction of wound string and strip? That might not be fixed well enough and vibrate. Or a winding got loose but that might be obvious.

I would wind some sticky tape around that tube and both sides of the tube to damp a loose tube. If that helps to some degree it might be the string, if not probably something else as Robobass suggested.

It might also help if a second person can press against your bass at different parts (edge of the top, underlengths, etc).

 

[RBrownBass]

Doesn't the Anima have that tube at the junction of wound string and strip? That might not be fixed well enough and vibrate.

I'm not sure what you mean by "tube". There's the exposed copper, then the ring (color-coded), which runs for about 3/4" on top of the yellow part, which wraps about 2" of the string. The yellow part of the afterlength does get thinner in the middle, but there's no "tube" to speak of anywhere. I don't see what could be not fixed, but if you could run an image thru Paint with an arrow showing me what you're referring to, I'd be very grateful.

It might also help if a second person can press against your bass at different parts (edge of the top, underlengths, etc).

I plan to do that as soon as I get the opportunity. I'll see my teacher Saturday, but I have the mitt back on at this point, and I'd have to change back to the Anima and then back to the Mitt again if the Anima continues to act up.

 

[RBrownBass]

I would try a wolf tone eliminator on the Anima E.

I will definitely be ordering a wolf tone eliminator. I love these strings*, and I'd like to use a full set. I just hope the string itself is defective in some way- I wouldn't know about how to go about testing for that.

*After several years going back and forth between these and some combo of S42 Mitts and D'Addario Preludes, (which almost perfectly match the gauge and tension of S42 Mitts on a 3/4 scale length), I have finally decided to stop judging the string (and myself, by extension) on its light tension and start playing the strings that I love. I was ready to commit totally (slightly wider nut slots) to the Animas and now this happens...

 

[DoubleMIDI]

I'm not sure what you mean by "tube". There's the exposed copper, then the ring (color-coded), which runs for about 3/4" on top of the yellow part, which wraps about 2" of the string. The yellow part of the afterlength does get thinner in the middle, but there's no "tube" to speak of anywhere.

Well, what I meant is the part between the copper and the yellow strap. The yellow strap is hollow inside and the diameter gets larger when the length gets compressed. That way the copper wound part goes into the yellow strap and the tension of the strap makes the diameter thinner and clamps against the copper wound part. The tube is a tube that goes over that part to avoid loosening of the strap. I think it is glued in place but the glue might be broken and the the tube might vibrate against the string. I named it a tube because the string runs through it.

That tube should not be wound onto the peg of the string may break. At least for the chromesteel wound Compas 180 and Classico. The softer copper probably doesn't cut the silk core as quickly as the flatwound chromesteel does.

 

[RBrownBass]

I would wind some sticky tape around that tube and both sides of the tube to damp a loose tube. If that helps to some degree it might be the string, if not probably something else as Robobass suggested.

Okay, I understand what you're talking about when you say, "tube", but when you say both sides of the tube... I'm still confused about that. I can wrap tape around the tube below the bridge, no problem,but above it would make the string sound weird, wouldn't it?

That tube should not be wound onto the peg of the string may break. At least for the chromesteel wound Compas 180 and Classico. The softer copper probably doesn't cut the silk core as quickly as the flatwound chromesteel does.

the tube at the peg does wind partially onto the peg shafts at the A and D. I don't know that there's anything I can do about that- it's a 41.7 scale and the strings are where they are. In fact, there would be more string wrapped around the peg if I were not using a harp tp.

 

[RBrownBass]

Okay, I think I see what you mean. Both ends of the string. I have to reinstall the Anima and try this. I'll report back sometime tomorrow.

 

[DoubleMIDI]

Both ends of he tailpiece side tube, from the copper over the tube to the yellow strap. That way the tube cannot vibrate freely on either end of it since the tape fixes the tube to the string/strap.

 

[Reiska]

My experience is that while Animas are great sounding strings, their second nature is weird stuff like this. If you`re sure that it`s the string and not the bass that buzzes, contact Velvet customer service. I have had a couple of Anima strings replaced for free in the past, Velvet at least used to have great customer service, don`t know the situation nowadays.