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Wood for kitchen utensils

This is hardly Luthiery related, I just don't know where else to ask this question.
I hope someone knows, because people here know a lot about wood.

What woods are good for making kitchen utensils? Like stirrers, spatulae, salad spoons etc.
What are the dos and don'ts of making kitchen utensils? What finishes are good? Can things be used when unfinished?

Thanks in advance.
 
I have some beautiful walnut salad utensils I inherited, some kind of non toxic oil finish. I think walnut oil is actually one of the options, though I’m mildly allergic to walnut in general. You want something hard and fine-pored. The only downside to maple is it stains easily. The walnut probably does too, but it’s kind of invisible against the dark wood. My mom has some large jet black ebony spoons she picked up in Africa, hard to find, but one of the lighter variants like Gabon ebony would be gorgeous.
 
Maple or olive should be good. I’ve got a wood spoon that looks like sycamore to me so maybe another option. I’m not sure what finishes are available in the Netherlands but you should be able to find something labeled as food safe. The butcher block oil mentioned above or what bowl turners use. I wouldn’t use a polmerized oil, many of them contain dryers that are much less than healthy even after it’s cured.

I haven’t made any yet but there are a bunch of YouTube videos about carving spoons and other utensils. They should have some wood and finish suggestions also.
 
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Olive wood is common from areas with those, utterly imported here. Beech, birch, cherry and maple are pretty typical "local to here "(North East USA) woods. Pretty much any "not generally known to be toxic, pretty close grained" wood will do; leave the tropical exotics for some other use. In "not actually wood" from the tropics I do have some stuff made from coconut shell (which polishes up nicely once you get past the hairy fuzz it starts with) and bamboo.

Finish-wise, you have oils: mineral oil, (which does not harden but works fine if reapplied regularly and does not go rancid as typical salad oils do), Walnut oil which does harden but introduces some non-obvious risk for "severe tree-nut-allergy" folks.

Wax, with beeswax at the top of the list food-safety wise.

No finish works for some applications, (common enough for spoons) though occasional sanding may be required for maintenance if they get too fuzzy. A spoon used extensively for stirring boiling liquid generally won't retain whatever finish you try to put on it, and may look rather ragged due to all the hot water and drying, but work for decades anyway. (Proof via Mom's beat up old wooden spoon...)

Then there are commercial film finishes that are specifically made to be food-safe, such as "salad bowl finish."

Common things you might _think_ were food safe such as boiled linseed oil (flax seed oil) are not usually actually boiled, they have heavy metals as "drying agents" to make them harden instead, and you don't want those on food contact surfaces.
 
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I replaced a handle on a chef knife with cedar. Not a hard wood. At first I finished with Thompson's water seal, but the finish did not hold up. Rather than make another handle, I then refinished with Waterlox (leftover from refinishing our wood floors) and it has held up well.

I agree the finish is what is most important. Not sure I would use any finish where the utensil was going to touch the food. We do avoid plastic when possible and have some wood utensils, but they are unfinished.
 
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Any natural vegetable, seed, or animal based oil (walnut oil being an example) will eventually go rancid. Some will go faster than others, but they will all turn on you eventually. Food grade mineral oil is what you want.
I make a number of rolling pins with extra wood from my bats. I generally leave them bare.
 
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