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Wood from a Maple tree

J

jonathanhughes

Jan 3, 2009
537
538
Buffalo, NY
www.jonathanhughes.com
#1
Almost 50 years ago, my brother planted a maple seed pod. It grew into a small tree. My parents moved from Buffalo, to Philadelphia, to Boston, and back to Buffalo, and they were able to take the tree with them at each move (it was still pretty small for the all the moves). It was in its final spot for 43 years — until yesterday, when it was finally taken down (it was huge (40 feet tall) and had been attacked by carpenter ants and there was a real possibility that part or all of it could fall on my parents' house).

So, I was able to save some of the wood, including some long, straight limbs. My dream would be to have some of it made into a neck (not by me, but my someone who knows what they're doing). These were upper limbs, and it appears that they were not attacked by the ants. Assuming the wood is of good quality, I was wondering if anyone could answer some questions:

•*I'm not positive, but I think it's Silver Maple. If so, is that a decent type of maple for a neck?

•*I know it needs to dry out, but for how long? Is there anything I can do to speed up the process, and how do I know when it's dry enough to use?

thanks!


Jonathan
 
#3
Silver maple is also known as soft maple, and it makes a fine neck wood.

As for drying it, I don't know how long. But unless you are experienced with it (which it sounds like you are not), you'll be best off having a sawmill process it for you. Have them rip it into pieces as long and wide as they can, and perhaps somewhere around 1.5" thick. You'll need to plane it down to thickness anyway, and you don't want to start too thin, or it won't be all that useful later on.

You want the wood to dry slowly, to minimize checking, warping, twisting, and other problems. It is dry enough to use when it reaches 6-8% moisture content. To check that, you'll need a moisture meter. You can get those relatively cheap on Amazon. You'll want to seal the ends (they sell stuff for that too) to prevent moisture from escaping too quickly through the end grain, which can lead to checking.
 
#4
Sawing it into smaller sizes will allow it to dry faster. Drying too fast will cause splits and end checking, especially when left round and uncut. The logs will dry from the outside in and the most movement will happen parallel to the grain (or tangential to the log). Sawing into quartersawn planks would work best, but flatsawn will work to. It's important to cut it so the pith (center of the tree) is not boxed in on any piece. You'll also need to coat the ends with wax or something to slow down moisture movement and prevent checking. Stack the pieces with sticks in between in a dry place with air movement to avoid fungi or bug problems. It could take up to a couple years before it's done losing moisture. What's important is that it reaches Equilibrium Moisture Content. The best way to tell is to weigh the pieces when you stack them, then weigh them again every month or so. Once they stop getting lighter you're good to go.

Most of this info is from Bruce Hoadley's "Understanding Wood." It's a great resource.
 
#6
very nice, i completely understand the relationship. id let it spend a year in the form of larger, thick boards in the exterior (under the roof), then two in the same form inside, then cut it to neck blanks and let it sit for another 3-4 years.
 
#8
Jazzdogg said:
Unfortunately, the stresses endemic to limbs makes them largely unsuitable for lumber.
This is the reason tree trunks (boles) are harvested for lumber production, and limbs are not.
Click to expand...
This has been my understanding, also. Horizontal members have stresses built in that enable them to fight the bending pull of gravity. Remove the gravity and they twist up.
 
#9
Jazzdogg said:
Unfortunately, the stresses endemic to limbs makes them largely unsuitable for lumber.
This is the reason tree trunks (boles) are harvested for lumber production, and limbs are not.
Click to expand...

This is the way it is. If you sawed all of it into thick planks, most of it would distort and/or split rather badly. It is not impossible that you could get some useful lumber, but the useful stuff would be in the minority, and would probably be small, short pieces. And, that useful lumber might distort further in the future, even after it seems to have reached EMC (i.e. - be dried). This is why professionals don't render limb wood into boards; the yield is too small, the risks are too large, and the labor is too great.

I would not make a neck out of limb wood under any circumstance.

However, the wood can be used for other, less structural purposes. If you rendered the wood into waaaay thick but very short planks, seal the ends, let them curl and twist while they dry (one year per inch of thickness), then joint one face and plane the other, then let them curl and twist some more as they find a new stress equilibrium, then joint and plane them again (repeat as necessary), you might end up with some useable drop top wood, a headstock veneer, or something like that. If it has sentimental value, it might be worth the work, even if it turns out to be rather plain flatsawn maple.

You can also share the wood with a wood turner (wet limb wood is usually turned very thick, then dried with major distortion, then re-turned to its final shape). You could get some nice bowls or platters out of it.

You can use it for smaller, meaningful projects. I made all of my lutherie knife handles out of limb wood from various trees that were meaningful to me or family members, for instance, and I use those tools all the time. I also tune pianos nearly every day with a tuning lever I made out of limb wood from an awesome cherry tree.

Certainly, small instrument parts such as knobs, pickup covers, truss rod covers, and other items like that can be made from your wood.

If you do decide to render some of the wood into planks (seal the ends, of course), you could try spalting some of it - you might get some really cool visual patterns if you go the drop top/headstock veneer route (or you might end up with unusable rotted wood).

Good luck with it,

Joe
 
#10
I also agree, the structural wood you need for necks will come from the trunk of the tree. Branches make really cool bowls and cups. I use to make stemmed wine glasses with wet limb wood, and I'd let it dry and warp and you'd get some really cool results.

If you find some cool patterns in the wood you can use it for inlay, fretboards or tops if you want to go on the long journey of drying. You might be able to find a mill that will mill and kiln dry it for you.
 
#11
JoeDeF said:
This is the way it is. If you sawed all of it into thick planks, most of it would distort and/or split rather badly. It is not impossible that you could get some useful lumber, but the useful stuff would be in the minority, and would probably be small, short pieces. And, that useful lumber might distort further in the future, even after it seems to have reached EMC (i.e. - be dried). This is why professionals don't render limb wood into boards; the yield is too small, the risks are too large, and the labor is too great.

I would not make a neck out of limb wood under any circumstance.

However, the wood can be used for other, less structural purposes. If you rendered the wood into waaaay thick but very short planks, seal the ends, let them curl and twist while they dry (one year per inch of thickness), then joint one face and plane the other, then let them curl and twist some more as they find a new stress equilibrium, then joint and plane them again (repeat as necessary), you might end up with some useable drop top wood, a headstock veneer, or something like that. If it has sentimental value, it might be worth the work, even if it turns out to be rather plain flatsawn maple.

You can also share the wood with a wood turner (wet limb wood is usually turned very thick, then dried with major distortion, then re-turned to its final shape). You could get some nice bowls or platters out of it.

You can use it for smaller, meaningful projects. I made all of my lutherie knife handles out of limb wood from various trees that were meaningful to me or family members, for instance, and I use those tools all the time. I also tune pianos nearly every day with a tuning lever I made out of limb wood from an awesome cherry tree.

Certainly, small instrument parts such as knobs, pickup covers, truss rod covers, and other items like that can be made from your wood.

If you do decide to render some of the wood into planks (seal the ends, of course), you could try spalting some of it - you might get some really cool visual patterns if you go the drop top/headstock veneer route (or you might end up with unusable rotted wood).

Good luck with it,

Joe
Click to expand...

I agree with Joe here, I was in a similar position 3 years ago I had to cut down a very large silver maple tree in my front garden, from this I harvested about 15 2-3 inch planks about 18 inches to 2 ft wide and 4 ft long. All rough cut by chainsaw, and none of it quarter sawn. It has been drying in my furnace room for 2 years afrter spending a year under the deck receiving some spalting in the process. I didnt save any of the limb material. I took it to a mill last year and he informed me it was still to wet to plane into planks. So far I have made 2 six string guitars, one failed 5 string bass guitar ( and i am in the process of re making a 5 string bass. It has been my experience that whilst it is possible to make necks from this lumber, it will not be as good a quality as a piece of quater sawn woon sourced from a merchant. Therefore all of my lumber is now used for body blanks either hidden or spalt showing. I found with mine it had a fair few worm holes in it, these dont worry me for the body as I think they add character, but they would be detrimental to neck strength.

I have put offcuts to various uses and the limbs you are using could be also used in a similar fashion as pickup covers electronic compartment covers, laminates for headstocks, I have used them at 1/4 inch depth as a body contour which adds contrast and curves. Be prepared for a lot of waste when you have the mill finish it for you, you will end up with usefull lumber but not as much as you first envisioned.

Like you the tree was too good to burn on the fire as some of my colleagues have suggested, and I was determined that it would be put to a functional use. That is what got me started in building guitars in the first place, it does give you a sense of satisfaction to think not only did you cut the tree down but you processed it into something that can be played for decades to come.:bassist: I would be very interested to see the results you achieve if I could figure out how to link it I would point you to some other posts I have made which show the guitars I have built, they are in the rough lumber club, it also shows the rough sawn planks that I ended up with.

Good luck with your builds
 
#12
"Silver maple is also known as soft maple, and it makes a fine neck wood."............Uhhh....Not Really!

Save yourself some grief, Jonathan. Silver Maple would not be a good choice for a neck without multiple laminations with other stable woods and maybe a little carbon fiber thrown in.

Silver Maple is very soft even for soft maple. It is a very unstable wood. Most commercial soft maple is usually Red Maple. Besides, you really want a hard maple like Sugar Maple for neck wood. I've worked in the commercial lumber business for "many moons", and have seen and worked with every wood you've ever heard of and some that you never knew existed. I can, with all confidence, say that I would not use Silver Maple for any aspects of guitar building especially for a neck.

I used to turn a lot of bowls on my lathe.....I wouldn't even consider turning Silver Maple after seeing first hand how unpredictable it can be as it dries.

I understand the sentimental value of the wood from this tree, but it would not even be on my list of choices for a neck......Much too soft and squirrelly.
 
#13
Tdog said:
"Silver maple is also known as soft maple, and it makes a fine neck wood."............Uhhh....Not Really!

Save yourself some grief, Jonathan. Silver Maple would not be a good choice for a neck without multiple laminations with other stable woods and maybe a little carbon fiber thrown in.

Silver Maple is very soft even for soft maple. It is a very unstable wood. Most commercial soft maple is usually Red Maple. Besides, you really want a hard maple like Sugar Maple for neck wood. I've worked in the commercial lumber business for "many moons", and have seen and worked with every wood you've ever heard of and some that you never knew existed. I can, with all confidence, say that I would not use Silver Maple for any aspects of guitar building especially for a neck.

I used to turn a lot of bowls on my lathe.....I wouldn't even consider turning Silver Maple after seeing first hand how unpredictable it can be as it dries.

I understand the sentimental value of the wood from this tree, but it would not even be on my list of choices for a neck......Much too soft and squirrelly.
Click to expand...

I believe quite a few people have done necks with soft maples actually. If the OP looks at the figures here [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], it may be useful comparing it to other woods. Soft maple has always seemed a silly name, as some of the "soft" Maples just arent that soft! (not talking silver here)

I can understand the reluctance to use it as a neck, but I cant see why it would not be used in any aspect of guitar building if it has been properly dried, that seems like being negative for being negatives sake. I'm not arguing with your experience at all, just thought some more info may be useful for the OP.
 
#15
jonathanhughes said:
Wow! Thanks for all the info! It's all been very helpful, and very interesting. It sure sounds like it could be futile trying to get a good neck made out of the wood. I'm wondering if I could eventually cut a bunch of strips, glue them together, and make a body out of it, or is it just not great wood for that?
Click to expand...

You can use just about anything for a body, its going to be a lot harder than basswood, which is used a lot. You could add in some different woods to contrast it too and make it a stripey bass :). As already suggested a top set might be good too if its big enough, or headstock facing or knobs. Or even a small plaque to have the name on the headstock.
 
#16
Any way you can take a picture of the leaves to help you identify? I dont know that Silver Maple is planted ornamentally all that often..Im willing to bet its a variety of Sugar Maple.

As stated try and salvage some of the logs. Just b/c bugs destroyed part of the tree doesnt mean there isnt useable lumber..obviously you cant tell until you really get into it. Limbs are very unstable and contain a lot of pith (center) and will crack.

I tell ya.. If your handy with a chainsaw you can slab some decent lumber on your own to get it to the drying stage for little coin . Remember every inch of thickness needs about a year to air dry. Also insure the ends are sealed up good or you'll get end checking and less useable lumber.
 
#17
I just glued a new neck blank with silver maple stringers today. Wormy, curly and slightly spalted at that. I dont build once piece necks but silver maple works fine in laminated necks and would also be fine for a body. Like I said, I dont do one piece necks but if I did I would certainly lean heavily towards hard maple over silver. It never hurts to try though.
 

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