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Worn fretless fingerboard

Hello!

I own a Warmoth 1985 PJ fretless with maple fretboard.
As I use round wound strings, the fretboard has become worn, and the bass is buzzing on some notes.
What lacquer should I use to repaint the fretboard? Some told me many years ago they used epoxy lacquer. Is that a good idea?
As you can see from the pics, the lacquer on the backside of the neck is a bit "cracked".
Should I worry about that?

This bass has always had some sustain issues. The #C, D and #D on the G-string is deadspots.
Any one knowing if it is possible to fix. In all my years playing on this "old lady" I've compensated this by playing these notes on my D-string, when possible.

Happy for tips.

Bobbe

IMG_4360.jpeg IMG_4361.jpeg IMG_4362.jpeg IMG_4363.jpeg
 
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I think there are better alternatives to epoxy out there now, but I'll let the experts chime in on exactly what...
 
The fingerboard is marked from the strings but not enough to be concerned about. So unless you are going to be levelling the fingerboard I wouldn't bother refinishing. If you've got some buzzing going on, it probably does need a levelling.

The cracking on the neck is because the neck is finished in lacquer and it may have been subjected to some cold. Also nothing to be concerned about.
 
I have similar grooves worn into my 18yr old neck.
IMG_20230629_174057_DRO.jpg


My neck is unfinished, so a different beast to yours but we do share similar grooves. In my case, I am doing a complete body refinish and then bringing it to a $25 plek analysis. The same shop confirmed the neck felt true (as I know it is), but the plek machine itself would reveal if the grooves were affecting play, where the dips are and so on. Looking close, i can differentiate where the fret marks should be by the density of strings marks in the neck.

If the grooves are bad enough, the plek machine resurfaces the board and you get a mint-new fret board, albeit shy some very few thousandths of inches here or there. They 'could' also change the diameter of the neck if you wanted to make it flatter or rounder or the same.

As to sealing my neck, I'll be using normal artist oil paints which will also help lube the wood as well. As your neck is sealed, oils won't work. The cracks in your shellac probably arose over time from the guitar taking small whacks to the body. The vibrations would naturally shimmie up the neck and bounce around, shattering the outer sealant. The headstock likely stops the vibrations, so the cracks are pooling just below there, while still ringing throughout the neck. the body won't see much sealer damage as it's one big hunk.
 
Rounds snap on a fretless in a way that flats cannot. Your preference for your bass for your playing is yours.
Of course. Though you might consider pressurewounds - most of the same snap as rounds, with much less board wear. Your mileage may vary. ;)
 
I have similar grooves worn into my 18yr old neck.
View attachment 5181200

My neck is unfinished, so a different beast to yours but we do share similar grooves. In my case, I am doing a complete body refinish and then bringing it to a $25 plek analysis. The same shop confirmed the neck felt true (as I know it is), but the plek machine itself would reveal if the grooves were affecting play, where the dips are and so on. Looking close, i can differentiate where the fret marks should be by the density of strings marks in the neck.

If the grooves are bad enough, the plek machine resurfaces the board and you get a mint-new fret board, albeit shy some very few thousandths of inches here or there. They 'could' also change the diameter of the neck if you wanted to make it flatter or rounder or the same.

As to sealing my neck, I'll be using normal artist oil paints which will also help lube the wood as well. As your neck is sealed, oils won't work. The cracks in your shellac probably arose over time from the guitar taking small whacks to the body. The vibrations would naturally shimmie up the neck and bounce around, shattering the outer sealant. The headstock likely stops the vibrations, so the cracks are pooling just below there, while still ringing throughout the neck. the body won't see much sealer damage as it's one big hunk.
I have similar, been using DR Hi Beams on it for 20 years now, so yeah, that'll happen. It's gotten to the point where proper note voicing is affected, so I should fill it or sand it or something...
 
When the divots get too deep for me I touch it up with 220-1500 grit sandpaper in an appropriate radius block.

Every 4 or 5 years or so it seems to need it.

If it's really bad, I'll level out the string paths as suggested in here by the pros...

Finish it off with a few drops of bore oil and I'm good to go.

Probably should check & revisit with each string change, but I can be lazy.
 
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The fingerboard is marked from the strings but not enough to be concerned about. So unless you are going to be levelling the fingerboard I wouldn't bother refinishing. If you've got some buzzing going on, it probably does need a levelling.

The cracking on the neck is because the neck is finished in lacquer and it may have been subjected to some cold. Also nothing to be concerned about.

Hello!
Yes, there is buzzing going on. Considering wether I should level the fretboard my self or leave it for a pro.
-and, yes the bass has been exposed to cold. I live in Northern Norway, north of the arctic circle.
 
Of course. Though you might consider pressurewounds - most of the same snap as rounds, with much less board wear. Your mileage may vary. ;)
Hello!
I don't know of pressure wounds??!!
I know someone used before, I don't know if any one use those any more;
Half the string was flats(for the fretboard), and half the string was round wound. But I don't like the feel of flats. I also sweat a lot in my hands, and then the strings fast loses the clarity/treble using non coated. So I stick to my Elixirs.
 
Hello!
Yes, there is buzzing going on. Considering wether I should level the fretboard my self or leave it for a pro.
-and, yes the bass has been exposed to cold. I live in Northern Norway, north of the arctic circle.
Levelling a fretless board is an exacting task - even small variations can case nasty buzzes. With the strings off, get the neck as flat as possible using the truss rod. Remove the nut. Then use a truly flat sanding beam the length of the fingerboard until the board is truly flat end to end. Refinish the board and reinstall the nut. You will need to lower the nut slots to account for the amount of wood you removed from the board.
 
Locking tuners?

Also if you’re really having issues get the neck leveled by a luthier.

looks very cool

Hello!
Yes, locking tuners. "Invented" by Gutar Workshop in Oslo, Norway. Practical, but not very nice. How ever I ordered the bass to be built on my own specs when I was around 17 -18 years(in 1983-ish, don't remember exactly), and I didn't specific what tuners to mount, so they came with the bass.
I won't change them, because I want to leave the bass original.
 
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