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Double Bass Worth the Trip???

Seriously thinking about taking the plunge into URB tomorrow. I have read the newbie threads and am a little bit overwhelmed at all the information. A friend of a friend offered me this bass up. Trying to decide if I should drive all the way into Pennsylvania to try it/buy it or not.

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Any ideas at the age/size/make/type(carved or laminate)?

Only having played electric bass up until now, the fretboard(rosewood?) appears to be either well used or overly dry...or a really bad cell phone pic. LOL.

Any thoughts/advice/things to look out for? Many thanks in advance. Pretty excited.
 
The only things you can really determine from the picture is that it's (most likely) laminate and a standard size.

But no, unless you've played it before or are getting it for next-to-nothing, I wouldn't mess with it. Depending on where you're coming from, you might spend more in gas money to come up and try it than it's actually worth.

Best option is to go and find a good luthier to give you an idea of what to look for. Knowing your location would help everyone a bit too.
 
a) drive all the way to Pennsylvania from where?
b) if you read the newbe links, then you know that it's not a fretboard, because there are indeed no frets. It is a fingerboard
c) If you're friend has offered you this bass, then I think I would ask your friend some of these questions. solid wood or laminate for example, should be an easy one for him/her to answer.
d) how much is he asking, what's the service history?

It's going to be tough to tell much from that picture. What's the real story here? How good of a friend of a friend is this? How much do you know about the bass?

If you live in Alabama and know nothing about it, but he wants $5k, then I would say "no it's not worth the drive". If you live in Wilmington and he lives in Philly and he wants a grand for a German shop bass that has been properly set up and cared for, then sure. My guess is reality lies somewhere in between. If we're really your best source for this information and not the seller, then you've got to give us more info. Sorry.
 
Sorry, fingerboard. Does it look dried out to you?

As I said it's not my friends, it's someone he knows. Original owner passed, wife told my friends acquaintance to get rid of it he knows I play bass. Unfortunately, the cat doesn't know a thing about it, other then she wants him to get rid of it.

I'm about 50 minutes each way and I'm in NJ. I'll probably make the trip if I can get it cheap enough. Thanks guys.
 
Tough to tell from that picture about the fingerboard, but I don't think "dried out" is usually or ever an issue. In theory, it should be ebony. If it's not, it's likely to require more maintenance. Fingerboards need to be dressed (by a professional) periodically and this one may or may not need some love. But, that's normal care and feeding.

It's really tough to tell about the size, age or construction from that picture for me. My guess, though, is that it is an older (1940's-1960's) bass that may not be laminate. That finish doesn't look like a modern laminate bass. But take that for what it's worth.

Laminate, hybrid, solid wood: any of them could make for a good instrument for you. There are more important factors, depending on your goals.

I live in Seattle and there are a lot of basses here. I would expect, even in this fairly compact city and metro-area to have to drive 50 minutes to see a bass. Yes, it's worth that kind of travel to check it out. The real question is how will you know what you're looking at? Assuming there is no one to take with you, try to get more information about it in advance.

If the widow doesn't know and still sad about her loss, what can you learn about the deceased owner? Was he a working musician? Was he in a community orchestra? How long did he have it? Where did he get it? Was he playing up to the end? Is there a shop that he had work done on it (who could tell you exactly what it was and what it's issues were)

And on some order of magnitude, what might she be asking for it? Hundreds? A grand? Ten grand?

If it's $5-10K, I would suggest that there are 200 similar basses within, say 2 hours drive of you and since you don't seem to have local help or know what to look for, you'd be better off going to a shop where you could play a few things, ask a lot of questions and get some service guarantees. If it's really an opportunity to pick up an unbelievable deal, then you'll either be taking a chance or you'll need some help.
 
Take Troy's advice to heart! You've given us very little to go on and, as Troy pointed out, you really don't have the knowledge to evaluate the bass and its value unless, of course, it's a no-brainer, as in they want $50 for it.
 
Many thanks TroyK.

From what I know the original owner was older and had some higher end/vintage equipment that this cat was selling for the widow and didn't seem to know much about any of it. We're talking unbelievable deal, so it sounds like a great opporunity to try out URB with only a small investment and potentially turn it over for a profit should it not be for me if the instrument is in decent shape. I will keep you posted once I see it tomorrow.

Thank you again.
 
Okay, so "carved" vs laminate. It doesn't mean everything, especially for a "getting into URB" instrument. But if you look at the side/edge of the top, you should be able to see either grain going through the sheet or ply-laminations. Also look at the edges in the f-holes. If these appear to kind of be painted or otherwise obscured, that's a sign that probably there wasn't beautiful grain running through. It could effect your resale value and it COULD make a difference in sound, but it's just a factor.

If it is solid wood (they're not all "carved"), then look for cracks and if you find some, look for beautiful, perfect cleats on the inside indicating professional repair. In either case, look at the top to see if it holds it's shape evenly. If you see any caving or indention under the bridge feet or a bulge or crack where the soundpost is, it's almost definitely not worth it at any price.

Look for any signs of a break, crack or weird angle at the heal of the neck and peg box. They're under a lot of tension and sometimes get mishandled, this is where that might show up. Not that it couldn't be repaired, but you get into some stuff there. If it has an old repair (very common) in one of those places and it was done right, no worries. If you see a screw or something else foreign...worry.

Check the seems. If you can take a small flashlight to shine inside and then look for light peaking out from someplace that it shouldn't be. Absent a properly repaired crack, this would be a sign that it's coming apart. Can almost always be repaired, but understand what you're getting into and don't tell yourself that classic Spicoli lie "we can fix this, my dad's a TV repair man, he's got an awesome set of tools."

If you've never played one before, it's going to be tough to go on the sound. The technique that being a great EBG player involves will not produce the sound in your head on a DB. It will take some time to adjust. Don't be surprised or read too much into the instrument based on that.

Look for a manufacture's label inside the f-holes. They're not always there and they're not always helpful, but sometimes they are. Also look for shop and repair labels. It might give you some date and history clues.

Measure the mensure; bridge to nut of the strings. 42" is pretty standard 3/4, give or take maybe 1/2 an inch. Shorter than about 41.25" and you're dealing with something probably not meant for you. Also, if your plan is to resell, your market will be limited with something less than 3/4. It's unlikely that it's larger than that.

If I know when you're going and you want to call me once you've had a look at it, PM me and I'll give you my cell phone number. I might be able to help a little bit or at least answer some questions while you're there. Better still, offer lunch/beer/help painting to someone local in exchange for going with you to check it out.
 
Wow. Thanks guys.

So I think I should be able to easily distinguish between fiberglass and wood, right? No brand tag visible is the only info I have from them.

From my limited search it sounds like I should stay away from any fiberglass instruments.

Thanks again TroyK for the additional wisdom.
 
Without knowing anything about them, I would say "yeah, stay away from fiberglass doublebasses". If you're already playing EBG well, it's not what you want or why you want to make your life infinitely harder by taking up DB. And, yeah, you should be able to tell the difference on sight.

The label would be inside the bass, on the back, across from one of the f-holes. It would be about 1"x 2" or less and are usually about the color of the unfinished wood. Easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Will almost always be there. That said, it may or may not be helpful, but it's definitely a clue.
 
Yeah, it is tough to see much, but the reflection is very strange. That's the first thing that made me say "Hmmm..." so I pulled up Google Images and searched for "Roth Finch bass." Take a look.

You might be right, it's really tough to tell from the one photo we have, but I agree that there is something about it. There are a lot of old "Roth Finch Fiberglass Bass" threads here that all seem to lead to "good for emergency floatation, bad for bass playing". People selling them for a few hundred bucks and saying that they were happy to have gotten that.

If that's what it is, walk. It's probably worth the drive to find out, if you can't get that much through the friend.
 

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