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Double Bass Would a C extension be right for my bass?

Hey TalkBass!

Im new to the forums, and hope I can fit in. Im 16 and I play classical double bass in several symphonys/groups around Raleigh.

Hope its cool I give you guys a imgur link.
http://imgur.com/a/LJjwp

This is a Calin Wultur Carcassi Flatback from Bob Beermans Bass shop in Greensboro NC.

Would It be dumb to put a C extension on this? And what qualifies a double bass to be "worthy" of a C extension?

Once again, im new to this forum. Thanks for the support!
 
It wouldn't be "dumb", it's just a matter of economy. The bass would probably sound great below E, and I'm sure you'd have fun playing the low notes. But a decent extension is at least $2000. Also, on student level basses like this (albeit a nice student bass) they tend not to increase the value very much in my experience, so it's not like you're going to add $2000 to the value of the bass when you spend that cash.

My advice would be: get one if you're serious about orchestral playing, and are going to keep the bass for at least a few years. Shop around too; some extensions are great, and some are crap. I recommend Chris Threlkeld as being the best extension maker on the planet.
 
I recently had an extension crafted for my bass by Tom Wolf and the price was less than 2K.

The first thing you should do is have your bass evaluated- sometimes the geometry of the instrument requires that a bit of the scroll be removed to accommodate the extension, and many luthiers will not agree to something so invasive, even on a student grade instrument.

Best of luck!

Joe

PS: Consider Rob Anzellotti's capos: http://www.basscapos.com/
 
Might not be financially feasible at the moment for you, but the safest bet is probably to wait and get a bass that's already equipped with one or have one commissioned with an extension in mind. In my (very limited) experience, an extension can either help or wreck a bass.

I've never heard of one wrecking a bass. Seen some cut scrolls, but no one does that anymore.
 
Might not be financially feasible at the moment for you, but the safest bet is probably to wait and get a bass that's already equipped with one or have one commissioned with an extension in mind. In my (very limited) experience, an extension can either help or wreck a bass.

There are a some basses out there with scrolls that have trouble accommodating extensions, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a good extension maker that couldn't make it work without cutting the scroll. I don't think there is such a thing as a modern bass that wouldn't easily take one, except maybe something with an elaborate figurehead on the scroll. It's not going to wreck anything, though like I said before, it might not add much (or any) value to the instrument. I speak from experience selling a couple student level basses with extensions.
 
A few points. First; yes there are some scrolls which make mounting an extension difficult, but it is quite rare, and your luthier can tell you quickly if this is the case.

Second: I think $2k is on the high side. I'm sure you can pay that, but I've paid MUCH less for a perfectly good extension.

Third: better to have your extension built by someone not too far away. Even the best made extension may need some tweaking and adjustment at some point.

Fourth; wreck a bass? There is a belief by some that adding an extension increases tension on the top, and may damage it. This may be what Will's teacher was alluding to. It is simply not true, however. Top tension is unaffected.

Fifth; Investment value shouldn't be as big a criterion as some make it. I've no idea what your bass is worth, but if you like the bass and plan to keep it for awhile, are oriented toward orchestral music, and just want to have those low notes, then by all means do it.

Last; There is a circumstance in which extensions get put on cheaper instruments: Broadway players are now often expected to have the low range, but don't want to leave a nice bass in the pit. Therefore it is common for them to put extensions on plywoods. So you never know, your extension may or may not add value when it comes time to sell. I bet it will.
 
Why not do the hybrid way, put a low C string and tune down the A string to G or get a G string (Red Mitchel set spirocore) and keep the D and upper G as normal.
On my bass I have a C spiro mittel 4/4 , A spiro mittel 4/4 (tuned down to G, but sometimes I like to tune it up to A ), the D and upper G are Belcantos. I found that this work great for me as my range increases greatly.

Jan-erik
 
Why not do the hybrid way, put a low C string and tune down the A string to G or get a G string (Red Mitchel set spirocore) and keep the D and upper G as normal.
On my bass I have a C spiro mittel 4/4 , A spiro mittel 4/4 (tuned down to G, but sometimes I like to tune it up to A ), the D and upper G are Belcantos. I found that this work great for me as my range increases greatly.

Jan-erik

Or just go to fifths tuning! I tried C-G-D-G for a few weeks a long time ago. I found that certain things like the trio from Beethoven V got easier, but most Mozart excerpts got way harder. Something to consider is that our OP is only sixteen. It might be a bit early to have him experimenting with non-fourths tuning. The fingers need time to build strength before being asked to make all these crazy leaps and extensions.

The other thing to ask is how much tone do you get from a 41.5" or 42" C-string? With an extension the low C length is ~52" I've played low-B fivers and fifths tuned four-stringers. In both cases I always found the tone of the low string to be rather sad compared to what you can get from an extension equipped bass.

Of course, playing on an extension, whether machine, gated, or fingered, does involve some learning, having it on your bass does not interfere with your regular study program. You can lock on "E" and ignore the low notes for your lesson. If you show up for your lesson with some unconventional tuning, then you might not get the best help available from your teacher:hyper:
 
Hey TalkBass!

Im new to the forums, and hope I can fit in. Im 16 and I play classical double bass in several symphonys/groups around Raleigh.

Hope its cool I give you guys a imgur link.


This is a Calin Wultur Carcassi Flatback from Bob Beermans Bass shop in Greensboro NC.

Would It be dumb to put a C extension on this? And what qualifies a double bass to be "worthy" of a C extension?

Once again, im new to this forum. Thanks for the support!

The only dumb thing would be to go out of your budget. That bass is awesome and I don't believe your bass or anyone's for that matter is 'unworthy' of a low c extension. I am 13 and I want one. Go for it but make sure you don't let people saw away part of the scroll. I've heard of people committing such crimes. I approve of the idea of an extension but not the violin corners :)
 
I think $2k is very pricey for an extension. If you are able why not wait for the ISB conference to have it done.

In terms of wrecking a bass, I think some basses are better candidates than others, and you also get into the argument of more weight and what it can do for the instrument. I think a well made extension by any maker will increase the value of any bass. What I also think is that there are basses that can handle the low C better than others. I have been fortunate enough to own two basses that can, but I also worked with a colleague who has one on his smaller 70's wilfer and it doesn't really do much. That could be setup, the fact that he has a few large top cracks that have never been fixed or the fact that the bass really doesn't respond well to it.

For testing purposes it may not be a bad idea to try using a hipshot xtender down to a D, and hear how your bass responds to the lower frequencies.

Last if you're doing more orchestral playing you might want a brighter C string. On my Solano I used a Spiro Med. On this bass, most likely a Kaplan heavy.
 
I think $2k is very pricey for an extension. If you are able why not wait for the ISB conference to have it done.
Fully loaded, that's right on. It's a lot of work and it's not easy work...it takes Jack 3 to 4 days with all the steps involved and a full arsenal of tools. I'd be surprised if anyone was doing this at the show...
 
I think $2k is very pricey for an extension. If you are able why not wait for the ISB conference to have it done.

In terms of wrecking a bass, I think some basses are better candidates than others, and you also get into the argument of more weight and what it can do for the instrument. I think a well made extension by any maker will increase the value of any bass. What I also think is that there are basses that can handle the low C better than others. I have been fortunate enough to own two basses that can, but I also worked with a colleague who has one on his smaller 70's wilfer and it doesn't really do much. That could be setup, the fact that he has a few large top cracks that have never been fixed or the fact that the bass really doesn't respond well to it.

For testing purposes it may not be a bad idea to try using a hipshot xtender down to a D, and hear how your bass responds to the lower frequencies.

Last if you're doing more orchestral playing you might want a brighter C string. On my Solano I used a Spiro Med. On this bass, most likely a Kaplan heavy.

You do know you're responding to an O.P. from 2012, right? ;)
 
It wouldn't be "dumb", it's just a matter of economy. The bass would probably sound great below E, and I'm sure you'd have fun playing the low notes. But a decent extension is at least $2000. Also, on student level basses like this (albeit a nice student bass) they tend not to increase the value very much in my experience, so it's not like you're going to add $2000 to the value of the bass when you spend that cash.

My advice would be: get one if you're serious about orchestral playing, and are going to keep the bass for at least a few years. Shop around too; some extensions are great, and some are crap. I recommend Chris Threlkeld as being the best extension maker on the planet.
I've heard of £1,000 C extensions that one of my teachers has but he felt like it was a lot to pay. I'd spend between £1000-2000