I'll post how it goes in my build thread - I have to go get screws first. Well actually I have to install an outside door first, hopefully that goes ok.
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YAFB ...
- Thread starter MichaelOz
- Start date
In most cases I think you would be just as well off threading the wood itself and skipping the inserts. That wenge would have taken 1/4 - 20 threads or larger no problem. A good new tap and you would be all set. For something like maple, drill, tap, then soak with thin CA glue, let it dry, re-tap. Unless you can find a specific tap for the threaded inserts I think they won't be nearly as strong as just tapping the wood.
This picture is the bridge for an acoustic bass I built. The post between the base and saddle is just a 1/4-20 threaded insert and it supports the strings no problem.
This picture is the bridge for an acoustic bass I built. The post between the base and saddle is just a 1/4-20 threaded insert and it supports the strings no problem.
Yeah, won't be going through this again, at least for the bridge. Just thought it would be a nice little exercise, but I'm paying for it. Then again, nothing ventured nothing gained, and experience is what I'm after. This is my first build after all, and there's nothing wrong with trying a few things - prefer to ask "why not?" and learn from that rather than "why?".
Anyway, some progress.
Repair of the threaded insert disaster in full swing. The first thing I need to do is get the inserts out of the two outer holes. That was much more difficult than I thought. The recommended method (drew bolt in, tighten first nut hard against the insert, tighten second nut hard against the first nut, and remove insert by simply screwing it out) didn't work at all. All that happened was the bolt coming undone.
What to do? I ended up sacrificing a cheap screwdriver and hammered that into the insert (which is brass). I could then use a pair of pliers tightly holding the screw driver shaft to get it out. Worked OK for the insert in the mahogany:
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Did not work at all for the insert in the maple. Did not budge. At all. Decided to drill it out. It's only brass.
First bit: 3,,. Not a problem. Second bit 4 mm. Still OK. Bit number 3 at 5 mm bit into the brass and actually moved it further in. And that's pretty much where I left it. There's a little off the top but enough depth to have plenty of contact area for glueing in the wood:
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Bit of an interesting trip, this one. Plenty learned, and hopefully I won't forget for the next builds.
Dropped into Bunnings earlier today (my wife needed a few plants for the front garden) and picked up a 9.5 mm Tassie oak dowel. Really didn't have the patience to round off the pieces of mahogany I took with me last Tuesday, and surely Tassie oak will be sufficiently hard to hold the screws. Anyway, drilled the holes to 9.5, and instead of me sanding the dowel to just below 9.5 I simply put a short measure of dowel in the drill and spun it round in a piece of sanding paper. Worked beautifully and quickly. Here are the dowels before:
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and after:
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Applied a good amount of Titebond with a cotton bud, hammered the dowels in, and they're now "resting" before cutting back, filing back, and sanding level. Looks a little ugly right now but, as mentioned previously, what happened under the bridge stays under the bridge
.
Feel like I'm in a better place now, everything back on track.
And some progress on the control cave cover: a 1 mm stainless steel plate that fits like a glove.
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One of the drummers I play with is pretty good at metal (both kinds, and he did this. Over night. Very happy.
Comments and questions welcome, and thank you for looking.
Regards,
Michael
Anyway, some progress.
Repair of the threaded insert disaster in full swing. The first thing I need to do is get the inserts out of the two outer holes. That was much more difficult than I thought. The recommended method (drew bolt in, tighten first nut hard against the insert, tighten second nut hard against the first nut, and remove insert by simply screwing it out) didn't work at all. All that happened was the bolt coming undone.
What to do? I ended up sacrificing a cheap screwdriver and hammered that into the insert (which is brass). I could then use a pair of pliers tightly holding the screw driver shaft to get it out. Worked OK for the insert in the mahogany:
Invalid Link Removed
Did not work at all for the insert in the maple. Did not budge. At all. Decided to drill it out. It's only brass.
First bit: 3,,. Not a problem. Second bit 4 mm. Still OK. Bit number 3 at 5 mm bit into the brass and actually moved it further in. And that's pretty much where I left it. There's a little off the top but enough depth to have plenty of contact area for glueing in the wood:
Invalid Link Removed
Bit of an interesting trip, this one. Plenty learned, and hopefully I won't forget for the next builds.
Dropped into Bunnings earlier today (my wife needed a few plants for the front garden) and picked up a 9.5 mm Tassie oak dowel. Really didn't have the patience to round off the pieces of mahogany I took with me last Tuesday, and surely Tassie oak will be sufficiently hard to hold the screws. Anyway, drilled the holes to 9.5, and instead of me sanding the dowel to just below 9.5 I simply put a short measure of dowel in the drill and spun it round in a piece of sanding paper. Worked beautifully and quickly. Here are the dowels before:
Invalid Link Removed
and after:
Invalid Link Removed
Applied a good amount of Titebond with a cotton bud, hammered the dowels in, and they're now "resting" before cutting back, filing back, and sanding level. Looks a little ugly right now but, as mentioned previously, what happened under the bridge stays under the bridge
Feel like I'm in a better place now, everything back on track.
And some progress on the control cave cover: a 1 mm stainless steel plate that fits like a glove.
Invalid Link Removed
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One of the drummers I play with is pretty good at metal (both kinds, and he did this. Over night. Very happy.
Comments and questions welcome, and thank you for looking.
Regards,
Michael
Good question.
Answer is yes, there's plenty of clearance. The remaining piece of brass will, no doubt, make the sound a little brighter
Regards,
Michael
Hopkins
Commercial User
Question, did you use any wax, soap or other type of lubricant when trying to install the inserts? Because I have never had any problems threading even brass inserts into maple, as long as you use some type of lubricant.
Answer: no. And I'm not sure why not because in hindsight it makes perfect sense. This interweb thingy is pretty useful sometimes, thank you for that.
Did you drill the hole for the insert at the prescribed size as well? That's the other issue, being able to align everything perfectly ... .
Regards,
Michael
I used bees wax on the inserts I just put in my build. I had to go one size up with the drill bit though - when I used the drill specified on the package the mahogany split away right near the hole (on a test piece). It went it perfectly and thankfully all four holes lined up - I put the process I used in my build thread.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Great,
Good to know. That gives me confidence for my next build.
Regards,
Michael
I have never had to step up the bigger than the recommended hole size, but I do chamfer the hole slightly to make starting the insert easier.
Yes, that probably would have been a good idea - the test insert ultimately worked out ok, but it left a really rough edge near the top where it split wood out.
I never really managed to "show off" the final product - took some pics today, and here they are, brutal reality check. Before we do that a little reflection.
I've played the bass a couple of times (unfortunately the Dingwall is simply too good!!!). When I have played it I was really quite happy with everything - playability, sound, weight (digital bathroom scale says 3.6 kg), neck, balance (despite initial fears it might be a bit neck-heavy - hence the "Big Dipper"
). I also have had very positive comments regarding sound and appearance.
So overall I'm very happy but, as mentioned, the Ding simply overshadows everything. I may have to wait a few more months before that wears off a little to free my mind ... .
With that out of the way, here are the pics. I won't comment on them but feel free to ask if you see anything you would like to know more about.
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I've played the bass a couple of times (unfortunately the Dingwall is simply too good!!!). When I have played it I was really quite happy with everything - playability, sound, weight (digital bathroom scale says 3.6 kg), neck, balance (despite initial fears it might be a bit neck-heavy - hence the "Big Dipper"
So overall I'm very happy but, as mentioned, the Ding simply overshadows everything. I may have to wait a few more months before that wears off a little to free my mind ... .
With that out of the way, here are the pics. I won't comment on them but feel free to ask if you see anything you would like to know more about.
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I've said it many times before but happy to say it again: without David's (Searle) guidance and support this would have been not half as good as it is now - a lot of appreciation!!
Thank you for looking and your comments. Next builds are kind of under way but nothing really to show just yet.
Closure ... is ... good
Regards,
Michael
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I've said it many times before but happy to say it again: without David's (Searle) guidance and support this would have been not half as good as it is now - a lot of appreciation!!
Thank you for looking and your comments. Next builds are kind of under way but nothing really to show just yet.
Closure ... is ... good
Regards,
Michael
Wow. It turned out absolutely beautiful. Stunning even.
You should be damn proud of yourself.
And yeah, it maybe won't be your main player, but I'm sure you'll get lots of use out of it. And you never know, maybe it'll grow on you more over time.
If nothing else, you've got the sexiest back up bass I've ever seen!
You should be damn proud of yourself.
And yeah, it maybe won't be your main player, but I'm sure you'll get lots of use out of it. And you never know, maybe it'll grow on you more over time.
If nothing else, you've got the sexiest back up bass I've ever seen!
C'mon, don't be so hard on yourself. It's only your first build mate. You should be pretty bloody proud of it.
It looks awesome. Great execution on the neck, pretty good fret work, snug fit neck pocket and neat cavity routes. I think you nailed the fundamental aspects of building an instrument.
All the best for the next build!!!
It looks awesome. Great execution on the neck, pretty good fret work, snug fit neck pocket and neat cavity routes. I think you nailed the fundamental aspects of building an instrument.
All the best for the next build!!!
