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Double Bass Yamahiko Double Bass Pickup

Don't know if this has come up, but I just got a Yamahiko and haven't taken it on a gig yet. Yesterday my bass developed a rattle that I couldn't figure out. It turned out the little caps on the pickup had come loose and were
rattling, particularly on the open A and G strings.

Has anyone else experienced this? It must have happened due to vibrations and it seems the only permanent fix would be to remove them. Thoughts?

I would not remove them. Just finger tighten them. They keep small particles, dust, rosin, cloth lint etc. out of the poles of the pickup element. Mine have NEVER come loose.
 
Don't know if this has come up, but I just got a Yamahiko and haven't taken it on a gig yet. Yesterday my bass developed a rattle that I couldn't figure out. It turned out the little caps on the pickup had come loose and were
rattling, particularly on the open A and G strings.

Has anyone else experienced this? It must have happened due to vibrations and it seems the only permanent fix would be to remove them. Thoughts?
The caps I can live with... the one that freaks me out is when the connector cable gets loose. My bass starts making a horrible crackling sound and sounds like it's picking up radio interference. It's only happened twice and both times I wasted quite a bit of time swapping cables, checking power, switching the preamp... only to remember to look at those *&^%$ cables.

The instances were about a year apart, just long enough to forget about the previous experience. I should probably put a reminder in my calendar to check the connections in about another 8 months... cause that's when it should be happening next.
 
I still use the old (90s) 'rubber caps'—prefer them over the screw caps for just this reason.
the pickups also use to come with red o-rings as a 'pressure stop' when tightening the cables (they were very easy to lose—I think I only have two left out of the original eight lol)

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I haven't had that issue, though I do occasionally finger tighten them all, just because.

@Eric Hochberg if it's a problem for you, I would use a tiny bit of Teflon tape rather than Loctite. It doesn't have adhesive, only sticks to itself, so it won't leave any trace and can't accidentally end up down in the connection hole.

A couple of bucks at any hardware store and you could fix every drippy faucet on your block before you needed a second roll. This would also make you a bizarre kind of neighborhood folk hero.

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Thanks, all. Now that I know, I'll check them regularly.

@TroyK I've got a roll of that!

@Karl Kaminski Rubber sounds good. Maybe they're still available...

Another comment regarding the Yamihiko. The size of the dummy adjuster wheel is too small, IMO, making it harder to turn than need be. The larger size of the FC wheel is much more user friendly.
 
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I bought a single sensor Yamahiko about a month ago. Compared to the full circle it’s much cleaner sounding. More mic sounding than any other pickups I’ve tried. The full circle has more of that grainy sound of the piezo. The Y has a more balanced sound as in the E string is not exaggerated like in the FC.
Now as we know one thing is the sound you get at home and another is how that translates in a band setting. The FC has a certain punch that helps cut through when walking bass lines. Sometimes the piezo sound helps being able to hear yourself better.
My only issue is the output being too hot. How can I solve this? I should’ve ordered it with a mod to make the signal less strong. I’m running it through an Alix Preamp>Genzler Magellan 800>Barefaced Super Midget 12” Speaker.

I’m still in the fence between keeping the Yamahiko or the Full Circle. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
 

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It's equally good or better on the gig.

I had an issue with the "hotness" when I first got it. Somehow it wasn't an issue 30 days later. Here are some thoughts:

1) impedance matching. It seems to work best at 4.7, but it's okay into anything piezo friendly. If your amp is not optimal, consider.

2) I'm plugging into the high output jack on my amp and it seems to help.

3) I also kind of just feel like rather than specifically either of those things, I just learned to deal with it. Play with the gain and master settings. Consider your attack. With me, it's possible that I was "playing" the old pickup and subconsciously, I stopped doing that and started playing the Yamahiko. Can't really explain it better than that. It's not an issue anymore.
 
Thanks Troy for the response.
I’m plugging into an Alix preamp and I’m not having issues with the output to my amp. That’s fine. The sound people complain that the signal is too hot. I use the high impedance setting at 10 meg ohms. The Alix only has a Gain control so I can’t adjust the level out to the DI out. I think maybe I had accidentally switched to mic level instead of line level on the back of the Alix.
 
Thanks Troy for the response.
I’m plugging into an Alix preamp and I’m not having issues with the output to my amp. That’s fine. The sound people complain that the signal is too hot. I use the high impedance setting at 10 meg ohms. The Alix only has a Gain control so I can’t adjust the level out to the DI out. I think maybe I had accidentally switched to mic level instead of line level on the back of the Alix.

Definitely confirm if you're sending mic or line level, but the sound engineer should have no problem padding that down by 10 or 20db...
Also, IIRC, the ALiX has an add'l pad you can engage but it's an internal dip switch??
 
I’m plugging into an Alix preamp and I’m not having issues with the output to my amp. That’s fine. The sound people complain that the signal is too hot. I use the high impedance setting at 10 meg ohms. The Alix only has a Gain control so I can’t adjust the level out to the DI out. I think maybe I had accidentally switched to mic level instead of line level on the back of the Alix.

If the gain indicator light is flashing green, and not red, when you play, the level is fine. For the xlr out, Mic level is the quieter of the two, equivalent to a direct box, and line level is hotter. So if they say it’s too hot, try mic level. But as Jeff mentioned, they should have no trouble padding it down. I’ve never had a problem like that, they usually prefer line level when given the choice. But if you say it’s your DI, maybe they’re expecting mic level.
 
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Thanks Troy for the response.
I’m plugging into an Alix preamp and I’m not having issues with the output to my amp. That’s fine. The sound people complain that the signal is too hot. I use the high impedance setting at 10 meg ohms. The Alix only has a Gain control so I can’t adjust the level out to the DI out. I think maybe I had accidentally switched to mic level instead of line level on the back of the Alix.
I usually pad mine.
 
I ended up doing the capacitor mod where you solder in a small cap into the plug (between the ground and the hot wires) and not only did it lower the volume, but I felt like it greatly improved the tone of the single element. I forget what the science/electronics explanation as to why was, but it had something to do with thickening up the low end. Now, I am no longer tied to my preamp situation and can run in direct with no problems if I need to. It sounds just fine at lower volumes with my AI heads, but at higher volumes it’s happy to get some preamp magic behind it, too.
 
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