• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Yet another 34"-35" thread

#21
MichaelScott said:
I have a 4 string 35" BTB as well- love the tension. A big pet peeve of mine is frett buzz and it is non-existant on the BTB. I have 2 fretless 34" that I love but as far as fretted I'd never play on anything less then 35" If I ever bought a 5 string I would want a 36" scale.
Click to expand...

Michael, do you switch back and forth between fretted 35" and fretless 34"?
 
#22
Brad Johnson said:
My simplisitic view saves me from a lot of angst...

"It's only an issue if I make it one".
:D

I have 34", 34 5/8" and 35" fretlesses and I play them interchangeably. I have several basses ranging from 30" to 36" with all stops in between. Those too I play interchangeably. The only bass I really "feel" is the 36" Fodera... it's a big bass;).

String spacing is an issue for me (I like wide spacing), scale length generally isn't. I've found that if I play the bass I have in my hands for what it is, no big deal. The only issue with the 36" is when I play down by first position, where the notes are much farther apart on each string.
Click to expand...

What is your 30" scale bass Brad?
 
#23
jim primate said:
i was contemplating what it tonal difference it would make if i had the bridge on my p-bass moved about an inch back to the butt end of the body. anyone know, or care to comment?
Click to expand...

Simply put, you'd be screwed.

The bridge placement has everything to do with where your frets are placed.

BTW bridge placement is one of those things that most people don't notice and instead they key in on scale length. I had an Alembic Series I 34" bass that was much more of a stretch than a 35" Elrick simply because of how far into the body the bridge was placed.
 
#25
Brad Johnson said:
Simply put, you'd be screwed.

The bridge placement has everything to do with where your frets are placed.

BTW bridge placement is one of those things that most people don't notice and instead they key in on scale length. I had an Alembic Series I 34" bass that was much more of a stretch than a 35" Elrick simply because of how far into the body the bridge was placed.
Click to expand...

+1 Brad.

People always forget to look at this point.

JP
 
#26
PlayTheBass said:
Michael, do you switch back and forth between fretted 35" and fretless 34"?
Click to expand...

Yeah it it works perfect. The 35 fretted means you have to stretch a little more then a 34 fretted to have proper technique. The same is true for a 34" fretless so it "feels" to me that the 35" fretted and the 34" fretless have almost the exact playability. The extra tension on the 35 fretted means I have no frettbuzz and the 34 Fretlesses I own have no frets so there is no buzz just tons of muwah.
 
#27
Brad Johnson said:
Early 60's semi hollow Kay 4 string. A tone monster.



Invalid Link Removed

Just kidding. It's loud unplugged and looks "different". That's why I like it.
Click to expand...

oh ok. I was thinking about this nice Brubaker 6er fretless 30" you once showed us. I wonder where this one is now and how it plays.

JP
 
#28
I too own 34" and 35", and have no trouble switching between 'em.

Brad nails it again. I agree that string spacing is a much bigger concern than scale length.

I also agree about bridge placement. I had one of the old NS2 Spectors but due to the bridge being towards the middle of the body I sold it because it was uncomfortable to play. If the Spector was my #1 axe I could've probably gotten used to it, but I'm far more comfy with Fender-style ergonomics.
 
#29
My 4 and 6 are 34" and my 5 is 35". When I switch basses I tend to notice the string width more than the length. I don't know who else feels like this but it seems that when I do switch back and forth that I seem to play the one I switch to better. It is like I feel and sense the differences and my muscle memory takes over and I just take off. I usually bring two wherever I go and change when it is necessary or for a different sound.
 
#30
JP Basses said:
oh ok. I was thinking about this nice Brubaker 6er fretless 30" you once showed us. I wonder where this one is now and how it plays.

JP
Click to expand...

That bass was pretty eye-opening. It flew right in the face of the idea that a 35" scale was needed for a nice B. Heck, a 32" scale wasn't even needed on that one.
 
#31
Brad Johnson said:
Early 60's semi hollow Kay 4 string. A tone monster.
Invalid Link Removed
Just kidding. It's loud unplugged and looks "different". That's why I like it.
Click to expand...

Hey man, did you get that dark red one (IIRC it's a Bone Avatar) from Bass Alone? I noticed the don't seem to be offering them any more?
 
#32
MichaelScott said:
Yeah it it works perfect. The 35 fretted means you have to stretch a little more then a 34 fretted to have proper technique. The same is true for a 34" fretless so it "feels" to me that the 35" fretted and the 34" fretless have almost the exact playability. The extra tension on the 35 fretted means I have no frettbuzz and the 34 Fretlesses I own have no frets so there is no buzz just tons of muwah.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. :) That's an interesting comment on the feel of the fretless being like the longer scale fretted. Do you think it's mainly because you can "cheat" on the fretted and be more behind the fret, like say your first finger is snug behind the first fret, then your pinky doesn't have to get quite as snug when you reach up tp grab another note?
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back