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buldog5151bass · Friday at 6:35 PM

Another one came up. @Skeezix is this enough for an acoustic gig, or strictly practice room amp?

Hamrlik · Friday at 6:09 PM

Weird

Bent77 · Friday at 5:50 PM

Contacts inside the pot are likely not 100% anymore due to wear or contamination

I replace them when they get like that

MultiScaleMale · Friday at 5:48 PM

I've also picked up some great knobs from D-Cline but it looks like he stopped making knobs. Looks good!

Dr. Cheese · Friday at 5:47 PM

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Sounds really good as he always does.

thump54 · Friday at 5:34 PM

pwilson said:
Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a sanity check on my signal chain.

I’m fully in the modeler camp (previously used an HX Stomp and Nano Cortex, now using an Anagram, which I love). Lately, I’ve been running ampless directly into the PA for a couple of gigs. While the Anagram sounds great, I like having an analog preamp/DI after it on my board to add a bit of saturation/warmth and access to a volume and EQ controls.

Here’s the path I took to get here:

Mantle (~$750): Found it way too subtle and nuanced. Didn't feel like it was adding enough to justify keeping it.

Capo (~$500): Loved the sound, but I was only using about 25% of its functionality. I don't need post-modeler overdrive or distortion channels, so it felt like overkill.

Mesa Subway+ DI-Preamp II (~$200): This seems to be the sweet spot. It gives me input saturation, tone shaping, a simple master volume, and basic EQ—all at a reasonable price.

My question for the forum: Am I using the right tool for the job here, or is running a dedicated preamp/DI post-Anagram redundant? Are the tonal benefits real, or am I just placebo-ing myself because I like the tactile controls?

Also open to suggestions if there’s a better/simpler solution I should look into, or if I should just trust the Anagram to feed the PA/power amp directly and call it a day.

Thanks!

When I run my Stomp, I really like having an outboard compressor in front and a transparent preamp (like the Broughton Messenger Jr. or the Tech 21 Q strip) after to make quick on the fly changes. Could I do it on the Stomp? Absolutely, but ain’t nobody got time for that! Plus it’s nice to have a backup!!!

SharpCat · Friday at 5:33 PM

Dunno if these are new or not, but I haven't seen them before. Don't know anything about them, but AllParts sent me an email that looked pretty nice. Caveat Emptor!

AllParts Pickups Look for the Razor logo. They seem to have "Full Moon" and "Blood Moon" flavors of P, J, and 51P pickups.

instrumentlevel · Friday at 5:31 PM

ajkula66 said:
That sounds like markings on a '70s Fender given the Torres name which I've seen on those before.

Agreed. I have a ‘72 precision with a jazz width maple Fretless neck made by Torres that is awesome.

If you want to explore the dating, hit GGJaguar's Guitarium and Ampeteria Dating 1970s Fender Guitars by Neck Code and go down to the part that goes into the “ 1972 – 80 coding system.”

Usually, the relevant parts of the date code are two 4 digit numbers. Thinking maybe you dropped a zero in the first set (hence why pics are helpful). If you go with the guide, you can decode the number 0100 and 5155 as the manufacture date of a neck.

01 = precision bass neck
00 = rosewood neck
51st week of the year
Year 5
Weekday Day 5

Aka: a rosewood precision bass neck made on Friday, December 19, 1975.

So, is it a rosewood pbass neck? (Hence the helpful pics!)

Anyway, that’s how those are decoded.

And it was made in the US. They were all made in the US in that timeframe.

crazycloud · Friday at 5:29 PM

Gilmourisgod said:
I always thought a fun project would be to build a replacement body out of lighter wood.

Changing out the bridge would give about the same result for a lot less work. It weighs a bleeping ton.

dmrogers said:
Personally, if I had a T-40 that was in good shape, I would just clean it up, set it up and play it.

Mine is really pretty and such a great bass. As I'm thinning the herd substantially, it's one of the few 4s I'll keep.

PS: @area_man - no pics, no bass.

Michael Jewels · Friday at 5:22 PM

And, for those not familiar with the streets of New York…

A few short blocks up 8th Avenue is, Madison Square Garden.

Super Bass · Friday at 5:14 PM

I love your new bass! Congrats!!

who · Friday at 5:01 PM

neil|lien said:
Well i guess i wasnt allowed to ask here or in the Ibanez club.

You have to be a supporting member to offer basses for sale or trade.

TolerancEJ · Friday at 4:50 PM

I still own every bass, except my first one. It was a blue Vantage FV-575B Flying V Bass. It looked just like the included photo. It got my feet in the door of the bass world. Being a V-shape, it had neck dive. To sit down, I needed to tuck the bottom wing between my legs. The volume wasn't very loud either.

kiat · Friday at 4:37 PM

I made this kit for myself as I wanted to find a way to charge and hopefully monitor the battery in my active bass (converted with a John East J-TONE from a passive Lakland JO5). I liked it so much I showed my bass mentor at my last lesson. He also wanted one so I ordered parts for it and enough to make a couple more in case others wanted one (I advertised them on basschat as I live in England). Each kit took well over an hour of my time to order, receive, adapt, assemble, measure, cut, solder, pre-test, glue, heatshrink, post-test, package plus time to handle posting. It's a fun little project but a bit of hassle to make loads of them!

Collin Bass · Friday at 4:10 PM

I'm in need of a little help, friends. I've had this Ernie Ball Music Man Stingray Special just over a week. Was loving every minute of it. Played it for quite a few hours in the last week with the batteries that it came with and everything was perfectly fine. Then two nights ago I noticed that it was suddenly making lots of what sounded like 60 cycle hum, or bad ground. Fresh batteries worked temporarily. Played for about an hour, nice and quiet again, I thought it was fixed. Left in it's case over night and today when I went to play it, zero output. (No, this isn't my first active bass, no, I don't leave the cable plugged in and every time I'm done it sits upright in its case in my humidity controlled closet, and I haven't banged it at all. It has been played only in my office at home)

When I put a second set of fresh batteries in today it was noisy no matter what I did. Sounded farty when playing, like dying batteries, but again they were freshly unwrapped (both this set and the last) and they are not not old, expiring in 2034.

I just ordered some fresh batteries from Amazon and a battery tester as I cannot find my multimeter. I should probably order one of those, too.

Anyways, it feels like the batteries are in there nice and snug. Nothing rattles if I hold the bass to my ear and shake it lightly. Sticking a flashlight in the jack tells me at least THOSE contacts aren't touching. And when I opened the battery cavity just now I lift the contacts with my fingers ever so slightly to make the batteries even more snug. Still nothing.

When my battery tester gets here I'm know if they don't have juice that there's likely a short somewhere as batteries shouldn't be draining from just a bad ground. If the batteries still seem to have plenty of juice, though, then I'll assume there's a loose contact somewhere. Maybe in the battery box?

Have you guys had this problem at all? Where did you find your short/loose connection?

Thanks in advance.

(Picture for attention as I don't seem to be able to upload even a short video of the noise)

Wyvern · Friday at 4:04 PM

Bikeguy57 said:
View attachment 7562194 View attachment 7562195 View attachment 7562196

eh_train · Friday at 4:03 PM

Bander said:
... force the wood to meet and align...

The above is what concerns me. I think the rib will resist being forced, particularly as it's curving in two different directions. You can already see, in the third pic, that there was a parallel crack that was repaired. So what happened next? The current crack.

james condino said:
... This won't be the only rib crack on that bass...

Yup, most likely parallel to where a forced repair happens.

Topkat13 · Friday at 3:52 PM

Max thumpage.

bdplaid · Friday at 3:46 PM

I could use some help with one of my patches. It's designed to mimic a fretess bass and for my purposes works well except for one thing: it's not touch sensitive at all. I have played with the filter, the envelope, input gain, different sources, tried it from scratch and I just can't make any headway at all making it sensitive to playing touch. Any ideas?

dannylectro · Friday at 3:41 PM

Bass4ThePublic said:
If it’s an $80 bass, I’d clamp it down with some relief added to the neck via clamp and put your body weight against it. If you snap the truss, it won’t be a big deal lol you’ll just be out $80

This is the way. Put a small piece of dowel under each end and then gently, carefully apply pressure with a bar clamp to take the pressure off the nut.

bknop · Friday at 3:40 PM

A free cab is great! Thankfully reconing isn't rocket science and you've done it before. What I was talking about was a gluing process using multiple applications of a pva glue such as Elmer's that's mixed with water typically 2 parts water to 1 part glue. It's applied then dried using a small heat shrink heat tool or hair dryer. I've saved a number of vintage speakers this way. Replacing cones would be preferable though if possible. Pic below is of a repair done in this fashion. Functional, yes, but not pretty, a little paint was added to blend in the seam a little bit. One speaker that seems to model ok is the GRS 8pt-8 with a -10db around 40hz(budget option). The Facial Pro 8FE 300 and Beyma 8P300FE looks better as far as having a smoother LF rolloff than the GRS. The Beyma is the flattest rolloff till the corner point.
Grs- red
Faital- green
Beyma- blue
Note the sim is from winisd alpha, so I would check in a better program. I have heard winisd is not always accurate.

digbyben · Friday at 3:38 PM

TaySte_2000 said:
I imagine because they are the same pedal no point confusing people on rev variations

You might be right on that, but I think I gotta respectfully disagree.
I mean, this entire TalkBass thread was started due to confusion!
The original poster did not know what model of SansAmp he had.
And I saw a similar thread on redddit where a guy was showing photos of the "version zero" with the single switch -- and he was asking if it was fake!
He really thought it might be a cheap third-party knock-off, simply because he could find no official information on it!

So I think there probably needs to be a page or at least a note on the Tech21 Archive for the "version zero" or "Rev 1".
Anyway, just a thought!

micguy · Friday at 3:26 PM

derekale said:
The ToneX One bass arrived today.
I intended to use it as a stomp (overdrive/fuzz).
But from what I understand, even when stomp is off, the three top LEDs remain lit.
Can you confirm?
It's not ideal to have it always on on the pedalboard, even when I'm not using it.

You do realize that every pedal on your board is "on" all the time, I ...hope - the foot switch on a pedal just switches it in and out of the signal path.

Sid the Kid · Friday at 3:24 PM

Seems like you could use either but the Master won’t have an effect on the tone where the input volume will. Some experimentation will be required to find what you like. I don’t think there’s a right or wrong way to do it, I’d just be very careful with the Master if I had the Gain and Volume cranked up.

From the Kinetix manual.

GAIN – This control provides adjustment for the overall gain level of the 12AX7 tube preamp. When used in conjunction
with the ON / BOOST switch positions it can provide a wide variety of harmonic content and complexity from clean to
overdriven tones.

VOLUME – This control sets the volume of the preamp after the tube GAIN stages and EQ network but before the EFX
LOOP and MASTER VOLUME control. Use this control in conjunction with the GAIN control to set your overall preamp
level for your desired GAIN setting.

MASTER – This control adjusts the overall volume of the amplifier and also adjusts the input level of the EFX LOOP
RECEIVE and AUX IN jacks. Typically, the best results are obtained when this control is operated between the 9:00 and
3:00 positions.

2xBass · Friday at 3:18 PM

WayneP said:
You are a quick study, sir. Best of luck with your project!

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Ecclesia: Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide
Administrator, Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
My Basses

Thank you kindly, Good Sir.

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