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SW Bit o' Honey Bunch

Hopefully this isn't considered a zombie thread?

Sometimes you are a bit lucky...
View attachment 7546382

BOH AND a lime chew.
The SW Bit o' Honey Bunch is NEVER a zombie thread. We arranged to have that written into TB's rules.

And, yes, could not agree more... scoring a Bit o' Honey AND a lime Tootise Roll at once would have been worth the purchase even if SW didn't send you what you originally ordered. :drool:

Should I learn to play with fingers?

I voted mostly no.

I'm in a similar boat. Same age, similar music, and the likelihood of me ever joining a band isn't zero, but it's so close there's no incest laws that cover it and the resulting offspring would be some unholy abomination.

I didn't want to play fingers, until one day I decided to do it. Now I do it sometimes, but I still prefer a pick. Do whatever's fun.

Katana Bass Club/Support Group

Is the GA-FC EX compatible with the Katana Bass line yet, or is it still exclusively just for their Katana Guitar amps?

The general opinion over on the other Katana Bass discussion thread is that the GA-FC is the one to use with the Katana Bass amps, but that was based on info from well over a couple years ago, and that Boss would have to issue some sort of firmware update for the Katana Bass amps to make them compatible with the GA-FC EX.

Is that still the case?

What happened with love for Villex pickups?

as i said - schematics i received from mt. villex list the value of A50K, pots that came with pickups purchased at that time are A100K and pot that arrived w/ NOS pickups purchased few months ago is B50K.

to spare myself from time waste [re]soldering/recording/listening/spectrogram analysis of different valued pots, i did ask if somebody already tested various pot values for mid control and has real life experience to share.


kind regards
I’m telling you the technical differences when using a pot as a variable resistor. 100K will give you everything 50K did plus 50K more range of resistance- if he suggested one and sent another it suggests that at some point he decided that extra range was useful.
Frankly you seem concerned enough about it that I have a hard time believing you won’t need to try for yourself!

NBD - Rolled the Dice w New Bass Brand

It's a great bass. Plays well, sounds good. I'll likely swap the electronics to step up the electronics to the next level.

My only real "complaint" is the neck. It's a bit "P-ish" shaped (I prefer a J neck profile). Aside from that and the electronics, it's pretty nice. It's not that the electronics are bad. They sound pretty good. The preamp control layout is just odd to me.
Congrats. I’m Always happy for those that land an instrument they are happy with.
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Router bit sizes for MM pickup?

I use standard size soapbar pups. In my builds,The Amana bits are expensive but works well to finalize the corners.I use the 1/8 top berring bit with my mdf template on top of the body,but only to finalize the corners. they are fradgile so use lightly and you wont break it. I use regular 3/8 trim bit on the sides,and a flat mortising bit for the center area.first .Take your time. Thats the key,practice on scrap wood first. then check the fit.depends how tight you want the corners.

Where's the ground wire?

The ground wire is what you’ll see if you strip the gray jacket and bare the negative/ground/shield from around the jack positive center wire. Gather it up and twist it into a nub you can solder back to the ground eyelet on the jack. The main output wiring is a coaxial style cable. Those PureTone jacks work really well. You can keep the jack nut tight by using a dab of thread lock, superglue, or rosin. It will still be removable. GREAT BASS!

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Swan Custom Bass Arrived with Finish Issues and Irregular Side Dots: Looking for Professional Opinions

I started reading this thread expecting it to be some nit picky stuff.

The side dots are terrible!!! Pretty shocked someone would think that’s alright when someone is paying them for it. The finish stuff would irk me but probably less. A lot can happen. It sounds like the guy is a good designer and just really sloppy with details. If you don’t think getting your money back is realistic at this point I would save myself the hassle and just have it fixed by someone else. You know the work would be right and you could start enjoying the bass.

Sorry this happened. Such a bummer for something you were excited for.

Five string bolt on

It's been a while, and not a lot of progress.

I got the pickup routes done. I cut a template on the CNC, positioned it and routed out the cavities. The bright birdseye maple is way too stark.
20260722_083344.jpg


I recently made a dining room table which I covered in "table top" epoxy. One of the parts is about the consistency of cold molasses, the other part is the consistency of caulk, it's very thick. Since I had a little left over I figured I'd use that for the inlay. When I was "pouring" out the thicker stuff it plopped out in a blob on my workbench and a bit dropped in the cup I was mixing in. It was impossible to know how much dropped in the cup, but it looked about even to what was already in there, it wasn't and the epoxy never cured.

I had already planed off the first headstock skin due to the router slip. I had to plane off this one as well. I used the CNC, it works well for that job, though I kind of wish I didn't know that.

This time I figured I'd do the inlay before gluing, that way if I mess it up I won't be planing for a third time. I have some fresh epoxy, but I don't have any other projects coming up, so I am reluctant to open it and have it go bad over time. I did try to make mother of pearl inlays with the CNC, but the pieces are just too small, I broke 2 pieces pretty quickly and decided that wasn't going to work.

I figured I'd go the other direction with the birdseye maple and dye it black, I'll do that on both the pickup covers and the headstock. It's going to be tricky to fill the inlay without going over as I can't sand it. I struggled a bit thinking about order of operations to get this done, we'll see if I can pull this off. The other consideration is what the sides of the headstock plate will look like once it's cut to size, I doubt the dye will have penetrated evenly. I figure I can either dye the edges once they are exposed or do a binding. We'll see.
20260730_163427.jpg


I love the look of this dyed birdseye. I've got a fair amount of that wood in stock, maybe my next top will be dyed birdseye

What do you think are the best bass guitar models currently in production in 2026?

The best basses being made these days?

I'd have to start with Mike Lull. My PJ5 has been my #1 bass for 15 years (and probably for the next 15). The Seymour Duncan pickups and TI flats give this bass a very special sound. The next best bass would be my Sadowsky Jazz. I just love the tone and feel of these basses. I'd kill for another Lakland. An early 55-94 was my #1 bass for 13 years, but since my back injury, they've all been too heavy.

Quilter Bass Block v803

Been messing around with trying to match the tone of Lullabies-era Alain Johannes Queens of the Stone Age. Heavily overdriven, no treble content, super woolly but still sweet and defined in the mix. Can’t say it’s a dead match but I say the v803 is up to the task.
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Qtube, flat, crank up the gain, roll off the treble, mild bass boost.
Unfortunately, No One Knows!

Gibson EB-?

Modifications are required, but afterwards, the sound is excellent. It's a '68 but was really beat up when I got it, so I didn't feel bad about mods.

Mike Watt got great sounds out his modded EB-3.View attachment 7547270
Yeah, using Guild pickups. I’m curious why he didn’t just get a JS 2, which was Guild’s EB knock-off(after a fashion), but ironically a much better instrument, especially the neck.
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Oversized neck pocket - what are my options?

Twins!

View attachment 7546595

Here's some pics, maybe not super helpful but I don't want to take the neck off again right now. You can see the side gaps as well as how low down the neck sits even with the shims. The strings pass through the nut at a bit of an angle and are visibly misaligned with the fretboard:

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View attachment 7546604View attachment 7546606
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The current plan is to cut down one of these for the floor of the neck pocket and go from there, though I forgot just how bad the string alignment was which might be a more difficult fix...
String out of alignment....

Try give some push to the neck towards to E string side.

Can you make a Fretless sound less 'mwah'?

I may be totaly wrong I am only an amature but here is what I did .I wanted lowest action possible,no fret noise or no buzz or no mwah from 3 experimental basses I built myself,to try multiple things.I wanted the deep low sound of a plucked double bass lots of sustain and no mwah sitar sound.I have acomplished that this way.First,is technique,Finger and dynamics hand control is very important.I installed marker lines on all my basses.I used D Adderio black tape wounds.My fret board is perfectly straight and flat but radiused to 9.5 inches The nut is extremely low. Since the truss rod only gives releif between the 1st and 12 th fret I radius some fall off between the 11 th fret and heal end of the neck to stop any mwah from the higher register.I found this works perfectly.since fretless is an intonating instrument you need to train your ears to position your fingers to hit the notes cleanly.I tune the open strings normally, and set my intonation as close as I can on the 12th fret line.Any thing in the upper register is fine tuned by your ear.With lots of practice you can do it.It takes time to feel comfortable on fretless.I use the lines only as refrence points for finger position.I finally get to play an electric bass that sounds like a double bass.once I got a taste of fretless with the beauty of noisless slides and vibrato I never went back to fretted.

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