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Intonation on my Peavey Grind NTB 6 string

K

kronos747

Mar 29, 2012
3
0
#1
I want to first start by saying these forums are incredible and im so happy they exist. This is my first time posting after reading many posts on here.

I recently purchased a USED Peavey Grind NTB 6 string bass, from my local music shop, they offered me a free set up but trying to get with the technicians schedule was a hell and i just said screw it, I'LL SET IT UP MYSELF!

I started with truss rods. I read every single online article i could find on DUAL truss rods (theres not many). theres only 1 adjustable rod that i see at the headstock which i treated like a single rod and did 1/4 turns and would tune up the strings and check for buzz each time. I got the best results with giving the neck a very SLIGHT bow.

SO HERES MY PROBLEM. :bawl: I cannot get my low 'B' string to be intoned at the 12th fret, its always sharp and gets increasingly worse from the nut to the 24th fret. I pushed the saddle as far back as it will go until it hits the string. I also have this problem with the low E string, just not as bad. ANOTHER thing is that the action (ONLY on the low b string) has to be really high or else i'll get buzz on half the frets.

The strings I'm using are brand new D'Adderios .030 - .130. Ive also had the truss rod set to where the neck is straight as can be and it makes no difference for the intonation so i don't think its that.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME, I DONT WANT TO HEAR THAT THE WOOD IS WARPED OR SOMETHING EXPENSIVE :bawl::bawl::bawl:
 
#2
For the intonation problem, try setting the witness point where the strings go over the saddles and the nut. There should be a fairly sharp angle and little or no curve. Before setting the witness point, get the saddles in the rough position they need to be in by setting them back about 1/8" per saddle starting from a string that will intonate with the higher string saddle being closer to the neck and the lower strings farther from the neck.

mech
 
#4
kronos747 said:
I want to first start by saying these forums are incredible and im so happy they exist. This is my first time posting after reading many posts on here.

I recently purchased a USED Peavey Grind NTB 6 string bass, from my local music shop, they offered me a free set up but trying to get with the technicians schedule was a hell and i just said screw it, I'LL SET IT UP MYSELF!

I started with truss rods. I read every single online article i could find on DUAL truss rods (theres not many). theres only 1 adjustable rod that i see at the headstock which i treated like a single rod and did 1/4 turns and would tune up the strings and check for buzz each time. I got the best results with giving the neck a very SLIGHT bow.

SO HERES MY PROBLEM. :bawl: I cannot get my low 'B' string to be intoned at the 12th fret, its always sharp and gets increasingly worse from the nut to the 24th fret. I pushed the saddle as far back as it will go until it hits the string. I also have this problem with the low E string, just not as bad. ANOTHER thing is that the action (ONLY on the low b string) has to be really high or else i'll get buzz on half the frets.

The strings I'm using are brand new D'Adderios .030 - .130. Ive also had the truss rod set to where the neck is straight as can be and it makes no difference for the intonation so i don't think its that.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME, I DONT WANT TO HEAR THAT THE WOOD IS WARPED OR SOMETHING EXPENSIVE :bawl::bawl::bawl:
Click to expand...

The intonation issue is very likely a witness point problem, as mech mentioned, and others will likely chime in on. Having the neck, "straight as can be", is not going to work for you; you're going to have to live with more forward bow. A strings-on fretleveling/crowning can get you exquisite action on most instruments, if the fingerboard itself isn't trash, but it will cost you.

This is an okay imported bass, but don't be expecting BMW performance from a Hyundai.
 
#5
kronos747 said:
i realllyyy appreciate the reply but I'm not sure what you mean by "set the witness point" hopefully this photo can help.

IMAG0211 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Click to expand...

Yep. Classic example. Notice how the smaller strings come straight off the saddles and the B, and to a lesser extent the E and A, have a curve in them on the neck side? Take your thumb and press down hard enough to flatten out the curve in the strings on the neck side of the saddles to flatten them out. Do the same thing on both sides of the topnut since there will be curves there also. The strings need to be as straight as possible between the saddles and the topnut. This will also make the action setup and tuning more stable since the curves would gradually straighten out due to the tension the strings are under. The string height would get lower and cause fret buzz and of course the string would go flat in pitch.

It's also a good thing to do the same where the string comes off the tuner post. It won't help stabilize the action setup but will help take some of the "going out of tune" pain out of breaking in new strings as the curve there straightens out and causes the string's pitch to go flat.

Mech
 
#6
thanks so much for all this support on a issue thats giving me head aches.

so i pushed down (hard as F**K) on the neck side of saddle and it def got lower and slightly better intonation but not perfect. now i have more buzz and had to raise the string a slight bit. ALSO im now realizing the b string has really bad sustain.. this also reflects in the tuner. as i strike the string, for a milisecond, its PERFECT and then sharpens. maybe thats a clue too? im really leaning on just taking it to guitar center and looked at by their technician.

i understand this is not the BMW of basses but its highly rated and FEELS SO GOD DAMN GOOD! i want this bass to be a winner!

guys, any more ideas would still be helpful though!! thanks a bunch!
 
#7
In the majority of cases, this will not turn out to be the best plan of action. While I realize that some GCs may have qualified techs, most of them do not. Let's revisit the local shop's free setup offer.

That photo should be in the much-needed stickie, "Why doesn't my E/B string, intonate?

B strings: more prone to problems. You may just have a bad string. The best I've ever found--I'm a 5 string player since 1988--are Circle K. I only use them, and TI Jazz Flats.
 
#8
kronos747 said:
ALSO im now realizing the b string has really bad sustain.. this also reflects in the tuner.
Click to expand...

Something that can cause this is a TWIST in the string. Take the string off the tuning post, let it relax and see if the coils line up with the post. If they are angled, turn the string in the bridge until the coil lines up with the post and reinstall. You'll have to reset all the witness points.

I don't have a Grind but have played several over the years and liked them. Once these minor probs are cleared up and you learn more about how to setup a guitar I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

mech
 

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