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Jazz bass neck on a P bass
- Thread starter ben12390
- Start date
It's a matter of unbolting the necks and swappig them. Very simple, and a great idea. Both of my Ps have Jazz necks.
Direct bolt on....In fact, Fender is already doing this...
Invalid Link Removed
And I happen to have one...
I swapped out the gold pickguard for a mirror chrome one though...
Invalid Link Removed
And I happen to have one...
I swapped out the gold pickguard for a mirror chrome one though...
It seems to me that based on the nature of the question, the OP doesn't have a clue as to where to begin. This is okay though, as we all have to learn somewhere.
Swapping Necks, step by step:
1. Remove the strings off the tuners on both necks. Slack them off like you were going to change them out, but instead of taking them off entirely, wrap them together in a towel or other soft object. This will keep them from moving around and damaging the rest of your bass.
2. Get the biggest Phillips screwdriver you can find that still fits the holes on the neck plates of both basses. Most of the time, stripped screw heads come about from the use of screwdrivers that are too small for the job.
3. Unscrew the screws from the neck plate on the back of the bass, but don't just do one at a time from fully tight to fully loose. Loosen them all evenly as you go in the same pattern that you would use to remove a car wheel. Start at one corner, move to the one opposite diagonally, then straight across, then the opposite diagonally and repeat. This will ensure that the holes are not damaged or stripped from movement.
4. Swap the necks.
5. When screwing the new neck in place, follow the removal steps in reverse. Tighten them all evenly, bit by bit, following the tightening pattern.
6. When the screws are all in place, but still a *little* bit loose, turn the bass over and string it up. Don't tighten the strings to tension though, just tighten them enough so that you can check the neck alignment.
7. Check the neck alignment carefully and when its good and straight and the strings are line up nicely over the saddles and in line with the edges of the fretboard, then tighten the screws on the back until they don't turn anymore, but aren't cranked super tight.
8. You can then retighten the screws after it settles for a few minutes to ensure they are tight.
9. String it up to tension and check it out. There is a very real possibility that you will require a full set up after this swap. Lots of guys get away with almost no adjustment, but others need a bit of work to get it right. Everything you ever want to know about setting up your guitar can be found in the Hardware, Setup and Repair forum right here on TB.
10. Repeat for the other bass.
11. Lastly, enjoy those basses...
Swapping Necks, step by step:
1. Remove the strings off the tuners on both necks. Slack them off like you were going to change them out, but instead of taking them off entirely, wrap them together in a towel or other soft object. This will keep them from moving around and damaging the rest of your bass.
2. Get the biggest Phillips screwdriver you can find that still fits the holes on the neck plates of both basses. Most of the time, stripped screw heads come about from the use of screwdrivers that are too small for the job.
3. Unscrew the screws from the neck plate on the back of the bass, but don't just do one at a time from fully tight to fully loose. Loosen them all evenly as you go in the same pattern that you would use to remove a car wheel. Start at one corner, move to the one opposite diagonally, then straight across, then the opposite diagonally and repeat. This will ensure that the holes are not damaged or stripped from movement.
4. Swap the necks.
5. When screwing the new neck in place, follow the removal steps in reverse. Tighten them all evenly, bit by bit, following the tightening pattern.
6. When the screws are all in place, but still a *little* bit loose, turn the bass over and string it up. Don't tighten the strings to tension though, just tighten them enough so that you can check the neck alignment.
7. Check the neck alignment carefully and when its good and straight and the strings are line up nicely over the saddles and in line with the edges of the fretboard, then tighten the screws on the back until they don't turn anymore, but aren't cranked super tight.
8. You can then retighten the screws after it settles for a few minutes to ensure they are tight.
9. String it up to tension and check it out. There is a very real possibility that you will require a full set up after this swap. Lots of guys get away with almost no adjustment, but others need a bit of work to get it right. Everything you ever want to know about setting up your guitar can be found in the Hardware, Setup and Repair forum right here on TB.
10. Repeat for the other bass.
11. Lastly, enjoy those basses...
Would there be a loose fit of the thinner jazz neck on a p body which has too thick a hole carved out?
Similarly,because the jazz body is smaller,the thicker p neck cannot fit in and requires some carpentry?
Or will the neck nearer to the pickups have the same size for both the P and and Jazz?
Similarly,because the jazz body is smaller,the thicker p neck cannot fit in and requires some carpentry?
Or will the neck nearer to the pickups have the same size for both the P and and Jazz?
The heals of both necks are the same. Just different tapers to different nut widths
Man that's deja vu all over again. I just opened this thread, read the first post and thought "gee this poor guy needs a step by step" and then I scroll down and see that I already gave him one a year ago! LOL my memory is now such that I had no recollection of this thread - but at least I'm consistent... 
^^^...LOL at Brent--------
wow really old thread..but since i'm throwing a jazz neck on a pj bass build 9yrs after this initial post, i will add that yes you can swap them out and the neck heel size isn't different, only 1/16" give or take, but they all measure 2-1/2" respectively..... Never slide the heel into the pocket, set ontop of pocket and gently push down..If you slide it, you take a chance at breaking that thin piece of body wood at the bottom heel pocket..
wow really old thread..but since i'm throwing a jazz neck on a pj bass build 9yrs after this initial post, i will add that yes you can swap them out and the neck heel size isn't different, only 1/16" give or take, but they all measure 2-1/2" respectively..... Never slide the heel into the pocket, set ontop of pocket and gently push down..If you slide it, you take a chance at breaking that thin piece of body wood at the bottom heel pocket..
It’s just a swap and then possibly setup. Might get by with a truss rod adjustment.
Good luck. I enjoy mine.
Good luck. I enjoy mine.
So, I'm doing just that... I've got a new P Bass body and a roasted maple J Bass neck. However, doing a quick fit check, the neck is really loose in the body's pocket. I mean, there's no, "push the neck into the pocket," it just plops right in. Is that normal?
As of late what you may find is the neck plate on one is not in the exact same location as on the other. What I mean by this is the guy who fits the neck onto the body places the holes and the plate. You can tell just by looking at them this is done by hand by whoever is putting the neck on so the location of the plate and screws with in general be in the same location but 90% of the time you will find them off by a bit and trying to use those holes may cause misalignment.
I found this on several basses I have changed necks on. What that leaves is the impression the neck plate makes on the finish and body may show if the swap is done and the body holes are made different. The best fix is to fill the holes in the neck and drill pilot holes for the new screw settings. I have a full set of transfer punches and this is the right tool for that activity. Also I find the factory matches necks to bodies. If you look on the body and neck you will probably see a marking indicating the match. Thus the neck is final fit to the pocket. Most factories make the body on a CNC machine and the pocket is made with the machine. Necks are similarly made but the last few thousands of an inch are hand fit for precision. On cheaper basses this is not done. The pocket and neck is machined with enough slop to fit any match. The guy screwing it into place sets is to it lines up good or as good it is can. This is where costs are trimmed. So one neck may not quite fit as well as it should on a swap. Yea the bolts will hold it in place but the pocket is where the alignment and strength for that come into play. The neck on a perfectly fit match will never mover out of place. On a cheaper bass it may should the tension of the strings change or weather changes. I am in Maine and as the seasons change the bodies and neck move (expand & shrink) as the air gets dryer and\or more humid in summer winter months. You can purchase necks n Aliexpress some non finished others completely finished for a descent price. It gives you one to work with instead of having two good basses apart.
A trick I have used when swapping a neck on a sloppy pocket is to tape off the neck and finish the area of where it fits with clear coat. I pencil mark the fit before I take it apart. Then I tape off everything except where the pocket fits. I then coat the area with Urethane or Lacquer and let it dry a few days. I then can final fit the neck by level sanding the clear coat. This make a perfect fit out of something that can be out by .080 or even more. And its very easy to do. I have professional spray equipment but it can also be done with rattle can coatings. Quality rattle can coatings. Stay away from any Rustoleum products when working on any instrument. The stuff is junk and stays soft for days and months after. Its also not material that is similar to what is put on instruments. Send me a post if you need more help!!
Here is a link to where you can look at them and search for something at a good price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholes...t=bass+guitar+neck&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0
I found this on several basses I have changed necks on. What that leaves is the impression the neck plate makes on the finish and body may show if the swap is done and the body holes are made different. The best fix is to fill the holes in the neck and drill pilot holes for the new screw settings. I have a full set of transfer punches and this is the right tool for that activity. Also I find the factory matches necks to bodies. If you look on the body and neck you will probably see a marking indicating the match. Thus the neck is final fit to the pocket. Most factories make the body on a CNC machine and the pocket is made with the machine. Necks are similarly made but the last few thousands of an inch are hand fit for precision. On cheaper basses this is not done. The pocket and neck is machined with enough slop to fit any match. The guy screwing it into place sets is to it lines up good or as good it is can. This is where costs are trimmed. So one neck may not quite fit as well as it should on a swap. Yea the bolts will hold it in place but the pocket is where the alignment and strength for that come into play. The neck on a perfectly fit match will never mover out of place. On a cheaper bass it may should the tension of the strings change or weather changes. I am in Maine and as the seasons change the bodies and neck move (expand & shrink) as the air gets dryer and\or more humid in summer winter months. You can purchase necks n Aliexpress some non finished others completely finished for a descent price. It gives you one to work with instead of having two good basses apart.
A trick I have used when swapping a neck on a sloppy pocket is to tape off the neck and finish the area of where it fits with clear coat. I pencil mark the fit before I take it apart. Then I tape off everything except where the pocket fits. I then coat the area with Urethane or Lacquer and let it dry a few days. I then can final fit the neck by level sanding the clear coat. This make a perfect fit out of something that can be out by .080 or even more. And its very easy to do. I have professional spray equipment but it can also be done with rattle can coatings. Quality rattle can coatings. Stay away from any Rustoleum products when working on any instrument. The stuff is junk and stays soft for days and months after. Its also not material that is similar to what is put on instruments. Send me a post if you need more help!!
Here is a link to where you can look at them and search for something at a good price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholes...t=bass+guitar+neck&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0
