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Epi Jack Casady pots

S

swollen303

Jul 23, 2007
48
0
Oregon
#1
Any one have any issues with the volume and/or tone pots on the JC?

IMO, the volume pot on mine seems a bit unresponsive. It seems to be either on or off, although the last 10% of the on the pot seems to make the most difference.

Remarks, comments, criticisms......

Thanks
 
#2
It might be a linear taper pot instead of audio?
With linear pots you can hear the volume difference most clearly in the last 10%, and it's hard for human hearing to hear much difference after.
I don't know what kind of pots Epi uses standard though. Someone could have replaced/modded it.
 
#3
swollen303 said:
Any one have any issues with the volume and/or tone pots on the JC?

IMO, the volume pot on mine seems a bit unresponsive. It seems to be either on or off, although the last 10% of the on the pot seems to make the most difference.

Remarks, comments, criticisms......

Thanks
Click to expand...

I had an issue with the pots on one of my Casadys. One of them wasn't working at all and the other was really noisy. Since they're an odd value I ordered them from the local Gibson repair tech and it took forever to get them. Not to bad to replace using the thread method.
 
#6
Lobster11 said:
Excuse my ignorance, but could you explain the "thread method"? I've always been curious how one would change the pots in this thing.
Click to expand...

With the pickguard off and after all the connections are made I put a long piece of thread through the body from the top and out the F hole, tie it around the pot shaft just above the threaded part of the pot and pull it and the pot back through the hole. Holding the thread tight I run the washer and nut down the thread onto the pot, tighten up the nut and remove the thread.

I found this video tutorial for changing the pots on a semihollow guitar. It shows what I'm talking about at about 3:00 into the video but they use string instead of thread and fish the string through the target hole after tying the string to the pots instead of putting the thread/string through the target hole first.

http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/video-335.asp

Hope that helps.
 
#7
My luthier uses fish tank pump tubing . I tried to rescue the output jack when I bought it and it had fallen inside. This would be a good method as the tubing I guess fits inside the output jack and can be used to hold it. I think it would also fit on the pot.

I will try it if it happens again although he did some work on the jack so it won't come loose and fall in again. This is evidently a common problem with these basses, it happens to Casady himself, too. I know because I asked him about it......
 
#8
edmidlifecrisis said:
My luthier uses fish tank pump tubing . I tried to rescue the output jack when I bought it and it had fallen inside. This would be a good method as the tubing I guess fits inside the output jack and can be used to hold it. I think it would also fit on the pot.

I will try it if it happens again although he did some work on the jack so it won't come loose and fall in again. This is evidently a common problem with these basses, it happens to Casady himself, too. I know because I asked him about it......
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had heard about the tubing trick but didn't have any tubing handy and I didn't want to buy any so I used thread.

I also had the jack falling in issue with my Casady. I replaced the OEM jack with a Switchcraft L11 which has a .375 inch long threaded bushing instead of the shorter OEM. It hasn't fallen in since.
 
#9
mongo2 said:
Yeah, I had heard about the tubing trick but didn't have any tubing handy and I didn't want to buy any so I used thread.

I also had the jack falling in issue with my Casady. I replaced the OEM jack with a Switchcraft L11 which has a .375 inch long threaded bushing instead of the shorter OEM. It hasn't fallen in since.
Click to expand...

Great idea!
 
#10
I have a full JC pickup and harness in my Artcore. I have the same kind of radical "jump" in the taper of the pots. I took it to third Coast Guitar repair, and they said that they've seen alot of Jack Cassady basses and they are almost all the same way. Something to do with the low impedence pickup. My solution has been to just leave them both full open and adjust my tone mostly with the amp and the impedence selector. Not ideal, but the tone is just wonderfull!
 
#11
Thanks for all the replies. TB is a great resource for obscure information.

My JC is currently at the luthier and he confirms that they are audio pots. An email is in to Gibson customer service to try to obtain a valid schematic.

Yeah the alternative is to adjust tone with amp settings and the impedance selector as I have been. That solution works, just seems a bit inelegant and half fast.

Still open to other comments.
 
#12
swollen303 said:
Thanks for all the replies. TB is a great resource for obscure information.

My JC is currently at the luthier and he confirms that they are audio pots. An email is in to Gibson customer service to try to obtain a valid schematic.

Yeah the alternative is to adjust tone with amp settings and the impedance selector as I have been. That solution works, just seems a bit inelegant and half fast.

Still open to other comments.
Click to expand...

Years ago I found this schematic of the LP Signature bass on the 'net. The Casady is based on the LP Sig so maybe that schematic will help. Sorry for the image quality but that's the way it was posted.

Note the value of the pots in the schematic are 2.5K ohms audio taper. There's also an extra stereo output jack. It seems I may have misspoke myself in an earlier post regarding the pot value (since deleted). It's been several years since I worked on my Casady and I must have been thinking of one of my many other projects here. My apologies for that.

Link Removed
 
#13
Just to digress from the original post for a second here

This is Jack's setup recommendation for the JC bass from his website.

----
Here is my setup for my JC Epiphone basses: However, please note: This is a general setup that may vary somewhat from bass to bass. There may be slight variations on the instrument itself, and of course different string gauge setups.

1. THREE POINT TAILPIECE ASSEMBLY: Front Pole: 4/16", measuring from wood top surface to bottom of screwcap. Left Rear Pole: 1/2"; Right Rear Pole: 7/16". There should be a slight "rake" with Front Pole up a bit. Left Rear Pole (the low E string side) will be slightly higher in position than the Right Rear Pole, (the G string side).
2. STRING HEIGHT. Low E string, or 4th string: 4/16", or 1/8": Measured at 12th Fret. Again this may change slightly from bass to bass. High G string, or 1st string: 5/32".
3. ACTION/NECK SETTING: Please be sure and use the 'metric" hex wrench supplied with instrument: I keep the neck flat. After removal of the "Truss Rod Nut Cover," insert hex wrench, and to add Relief to the neck, turn clock wise, or to the right, looking down at the body, from the top of the neck. You will be adding "tension". and thus raising the center of the neck to meet the strings. If you need more space between the strings: Turn counterclockwise, and release the tension, thus increasing the distance between the strings and the neck. As I said before. My preference is to keep the neck FLAT. You should check this neck setup from time to time do to seasonal changes effecting your bass.
4. PREFERRED STRINGS: I use Dean Markley "Blue Steel" strings, round wound. Medium Light. Gauges: E-105; A-80; D-65; G-45.

Remember, that my setup may not be right for you, or your playing style. Do not be afraid to experiment with your own setup so you can get the most out of your instrument. Listen carefully to the tone and make sure there are no excessive string buzzing.

Good luck, and enjoy.
Jack Casady
 
#17
Just got the schematic from swollen303 (thanks, man) and sure enough, the volume and tone pots are both specified as 2.5k log -- just as in the original LP schematic posted by mongo2.

This has been a great thread: Thanks for all the info and tips, everyone!
 
#18
Watch out for the schematic when it comes to the impedence selector. I recieved it from Gibson and brought it in to the tech to have the parts wired up before installed them. He said that the Gibson schematic for the JC impedence selector was wrong.

Also, he mentioned that they've seen several different values in the pots that various JC's have come from the factory with.
 
#19
Eilif said:
Watch out for the schematic when it comes to the impedence selector. I recieved it from Gibson and brought it in to the tech to have the parts wired up before installed them. He said that the Gibson schematic for the JC impedence selector was wrong.

Also, he mentioned that they've seen several different values in the pots that various JC's have come from the factory with.
Click to expand...

Eilif is speaking the truth, at least as far as my current experience. Just got a call from the luthier and the schematic and wiring diagram are merely suggestions it seems. I have not received the bass, I will pick up tomorrow and test drive. But the luthier reports that the pots are not 2.5k. In my bass they are 25K.

To those who requested a copy of the schematic... use caution.
 

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