• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fender Bassman 410 L-pad repair??

Dec 20, 2012
27,397
19,561
46
Chicago IL
I have a fender bassman 410. It's not working at the moment but I'd like it to be operable again. The "L-pad" has gone out on it and I have no idea how to search for a replacement part for it. I've tried searching L-pad on google and it renders nothing. I don't know what that proper terminology is so I don't know what to search for. It's the part that has the tweeter knob on it. Can anyone help please or send me a link to a site I can find a replacement part. Thank you much!
 
null_zpsae14b94a.jpg

That's what the backplate looks like.
 
I have a fender bassman 410. It's not working at the moment but I'd like it to be operable again. The "L-pad" has gone out on it and I have no idea how to search for a replacement part for it. I've tried searching L-pad on google and it renders nothing. I don't know what that proper terminology is so I don't know what to search for. It's the part that has the tweeter knob on it. Can anyone help please or send me a link to a site I can find a replacement part. Thank you much!

How do you Know its the l-pad?
 
I was determined a while back. I described the issues I was having to someone on TB but I never followed through with it. He said that because I had to bang on the back, which is what I had to do to get it to work, it was the L-pad. When I tried turning the horn dial on the back it would cut in and out. Then it would only work when the dial was maxed out. When that started cutting out I had to tap the back of the cab around the plate area and it would cut in and out. I checked the connections and all looked solid. The horn dial post won't even turn anymore. It's like stuck in the position it's in now.
 
Thanks again B!! Always save the day :)

The whole cab cuts out btw to the above question. I know it's not the inputs. I can't remember exactly what tests I put it through but I remember that that was what was wrong with it exactly. It was a while ago I did it.
 
This is the part. I just removed it from the cab.
null_zps7fadd0d4.jpg

Thanks for posting that picture. troubleshooting and fixing this stuff for years, these are my assumptions.

You bang on the back of the cabinet to get sound. = You have a cold solder joint on that pc board. check with close up reading glasses under a bright light and stress the board, you will see something moving. Thats the culprit.

L-Pads are on a separate circuit from the woofers, your L-Pad could be on fire with molten lava pouring out of it and the woofers would still pass signal.

You Fender cab was probable made in China or elsewhere.

All the input connector jacks including components coming from that part of the neighborhood are CRAP.

I can't tell you how many made in Indonesia 1/4" jacks I've replace in over 25 years. You could have a visual check on the connections but it's always something you can't see readily. Like I said, yank the hole board fire up your soldergun and go hunting.

Piezo tweeter right?

Those has low output. I'd bypass the L-Pad all together and just hardwire that in the circuit.

Just my two cents. If you don't have the tools or soldering skills there always plan B.
 

Latest posts