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Should I wax my Warwick?

I have a corvette standard 4 string Bulbinga, the regular finish, that i bought off of ebay used about a year ago. It didn't come with any wax, and because of that I never thought of waxing it. I was wondering if waxing it now would make the finish any better, or is waxing it now a lost cause?
 
I have a corvette standard 4 string Bulbinga, the regular finish, that i bought off of ebay used about a year ago. It didn't come with any wax, and because of that I never thought of waxing it. I was wondering if waxing it now would make the finish any better, or is waxing it now a lost cause?

Yes, you need to wax the body at least. The bubinga is not sealed or treated in any way and could dry out and crack. Plus when the bodys waxed it'll really bring out the grain. You can also wax the back of the neck (some people do, some don't, Warwick reckon it gets enough oil from your hands), but don't wax the fingerboard-Lemon Oil only here

HTH
 
Yes, wax that Wick!!! Pretty much any Carnuaba based blend will do a good job. I currently am using a block of it I got at Woodcraft. If your bass hasn't been waxed in a long time its a great opportunity to touch up the finish and restore it to like-new. Simply take off the strings and bridge, then take a green 3M scotchbrite pad and sand off all the old wax, etc. You can even work out scratches and small dings this way. Then apply a few coats of Danish oil, allow to dry and then wax the hell out of it. I personally like to let the wax dry till its hard then buff to a high shine. Some guys wipe it down before it gets to that point though. I was taught this procedure by the head tech at Warwick a few years ago. Works great.
 
As long as it's not paintafence or sandafloor, IIRC you may want to sandabass with 000 steelwool or very high wet/dry sandapaper, if you have any finger/sweat/wear stains,then if that needs to be done, you may want to get some boiled linseed oil or tung oil, if sanding is necessary apply oil after sanding.

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This one kinda looks creepy::p
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Seriously, Butchers will work fine.
I use a buffing wheel on a cordless drill, usually apply about 3 or 4 coats, then buff it out.
 
Ive just got a streamer stage I 5 string, a 1990 model, and the guy who owned it had stopped waxing it because he had been waxing it for a while before.. the finish looks fine, should i continue waxing it with the beeswax? also the fretboard looks pretty dirty with a lot of build-up on the fretboard, would applying lemon oil and scraping out all sweat buildup dirt with a cloth be a good idea?
 
Look at Bass Player while waxing your wick.

Seriously, if it wasn't waxed you may have some expansion creating ridges. If so, use only 400 grit sandpaper. It will smooth out the Ovangkol or Bubinga. Then oil, wipe off the excess and wax till it's dry. Buff it good and then roll over and take a nap.
 
Yep, took me forever to find where to buy the wax,
But you should wax every other week or so.
Makes the surface clean, smooth and really makes it look great.

and yes it's a bitch to get off the pickups and bridge once you get lazy and don't use a fresh cloth to wipe them off each time, and it cakes up.