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Club Alleva Coppolo (Part V)

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#2
Thanks Ryan.

And, to continue the tradition, here's the Gold beauty. Let's get the pictures up here to make it easy for people to see these basses when perusing the new thread:hyper::D

alleva.gif
 
#5
I don't know where to even start except to say I could almost instantly tell that this was a really nice bass!

It's got a set of DR Hi Beams on it, they seem to be fairly new. Since I am a nickel kind of guy the exact tone that is happening may be different once I settle her in with a few day old set of nickels. We'll see.

That being said this bass is very bright and articulate for an alder/rosewood bass. IMO the action is actually to low, it plays great if that's your thing but I prefer to not be limited by how much I can dig in and will raise the action a little bit once I get out to Lowe's and get the right allen wrench. She's sitting in the car while I'm at work and that set up will most likely be done in the back of my car or on stage tonight. (SHAMELESS PLUG Nutty Irishman Farmingdale 7-10PM Tonight 12/12).

There are few things that I wasn't expecting, first the lollipop tuners are really small I guess to fit 5 on one side that needs to happen. Also the fret wire is very small compared to many of the basses I've owned, I am not sure what the impact of that is but it is something I noticed. The neck finish and fret board are just as advertised, great, I may be mistaken but it seems that the radius increases significantly as you move up the neck and in concert with that the difference between the fretboard width at the nut vs. the end of the fingerboard again seems to be wider then other experiences I've had. I don't tend to be a guy that measures every spot in millimeters I just thought it was different then other 5s I've owned and played. All good stuff no complaints...

THE ELECTRONICS very cool and Ken has said it well in other posts it's almost not there if you don't want it to be. You can tell ever so slightly when you switch from active to passive, honestly I haven't had enough time on her to nail it down but it's not 100% transparent. I will do a more detailed comparison of how it performs in passive mode especially compared to my USA JO which I have been know to claim to be the best passive bass on the planet. In very limited comparisons The JO has a little more going for it when comparing it to the LG in passive mode, a set up to my preferences may change that.

One thing that has me curious is that it would seem to make sense that the push/pull bypass would naturally be on the tone control and not the bridge pick up, not sure if that is the standard configuartion or not, there is probably a reason for that.

With my passive basses I tend to boost the bass and lows on my Glock HR to about 12:30 just to add a little meat down low. I am finding that maybe an 1/8 of a turn or so of the bass boost does a better job of focusing that low end. Sounds to me like a narrower Q on the AC preamp, again I could be wrong, I am more of an artist then a scientist when it comes to bass specs...

You guys have all studied the photos so she is as beautiful in person as she is in the digital images. When comparing her to my made in 1999 US JO the LG is bright white and the JO is really yellow.

This is all based on 1 1/2 hours before bed about 4 hours of laying in bed thinking about it and another hour before packing up for my gig and getting to work this morning. I am sure my thoughts will mature over time and hopefully some more experienced can clarify my foggy descriptions.

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Peter I STRONGLY suggest that you get a flat screwdriver and LOOSEN the truss Rod (Counter clockwise) just a TOUCH (MAYBE 1/8th of a turn at the most or less at a time!!!!) Instead of adjusting the saddles. I HATE the G saddle to be too low and I find that I typically raise the G and D saddles about 1/2 to 1 full turn on most factory fresh setups to get the string more even with the A and E and to get them off the PUPS. I then may drop the bass side of the PUPS or raise the treble side of the PUPS if I need to balance the output better. I find that I am able to get the action lower with NO noise this way to. I HATE any noise at all from my strings and this usually does the trick. Unless the saddles are really low I never have to touch them as long as the fret work is good. I remember that bass being the most even sounding 5 I have ever played so I know it should not be all that much involved to get her setup for you. Definitely try the truss rod first though!!!! Hope you will love her!

Peace,

T
 
#7
tommixx said:
Peter I STRONGLY suggest that you get a flat screwdriver and LOOSEN the truss Rod (Counter clockwise) just a TOUCH (MAYBE 1/8th of a turn at the most or less at a time!!!!) Instead of adjusting the saddles. I HATE the G saddle to be too low and I find that I typically raise the G and D saddles about 1/2 to 1 full turn on most factory fresh setups to get the string more even with the A and E and to get them off the PUPS. I then may drop the bass side of the PUPS or raise the treble side of the PUPS if I need to balance the output better. I find that I am able to get the action lower with NO noise this way to. I HATE any noise at all from my strings and this usually does the trick. Unless the saddles are really low I never have to touch them as long as the fret work is good. I remember that bass being the most even sounding 5 I have ever played so I know it should not be all that much involved to get her setup for you. Definitely try the truss rod first though!!!! Hope you will love her!

Peace,

T
Click to expand...

Thanks for the Thoughts. I will give that a shot. Just got back from the hardware store and got the right allen wrench. It does seem that there is very little relief in the neck right now. I wasn't about to play with that in the back of my car. For now I am going to raise the B just a hair since I'm going straight from the office to an early gig and deal with it in the morning when I can work on my own work bench.

If I get to the gig with enough time I might give it a turn, I'd have to have enough time to rework any intonation issues that might cause.
 
#10
peterpalmieri said:
One thing that has me curious is that it would seem to make sense that the push/pull bypass would naturally be on the tone control and not the bridge pick up, not sure if that is the standard configuartion or not, there is probably a reason for that.
Click to expand...
I believe this is an artifact of the fact that the passive tone control is an option, but he still wants to provide the bypass control even if you don't order that. It's easy to get used to tho.
 
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