- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
Im off to a gig tonight, but heres a little pictorial story for you to consider in the mean time 
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Double Bass NZ Non-Standard Cleveland - removeable neck and sound post hatch.
- Thread starter Matthew Tucker
- Start date
You da man...down under!
Excellent work Matthew, I am sure you will get a lot of questions about how you did it.
I have to say I like that one bolt design! I was messing around with mine which has the same bolt on "tucker" neck and put a shim under the front part of the neck butt. It brought up the string height. I didn't try the opposite yet but this could possible replace the adjustable bridge which is a pain to replace because it falls apart, spins around and is a general PIA.
Excellent work Matthew, I am sure you will get a lot of questions about how you did it.
I have to say I like that one bolt design! I was messing around with mine which has the same bolt on "tucker" neck and put a shim under the front part of the neck butt. It brought up the string height. I didn't try the opposite yet but this could possible replace the adjustable bridge which is a pain to replace because it falls apart, spins around and is a general PIA.
Are those six silvery dots magnets? Interesting way to close the door...I would not have thought of that.
How long does it take to assemble, set-up and ready to play?
How long does it take to assemble, set-up and ready to play?
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
Dan, the owner - based in New Zealand - wanted to take his NS Cleveland with him on tour. So he came up with a plan to ship his bass to me in Sydney in a flight case, I would do the neck conversion, and ship back to him.
Dan had the neck removed by a local luthier and made the flight cases to fit the two pieces neatly. The cases arrived in due course with the contents intact and i started the job. The operation involves cleaning up, rebuilding and refitting the neck mortise area, installing the bolt and bolt cap, deciding what to do with the button area, then refinishing to match existing finish.
Originally, I had planned on installing the captive nut by keyhole surgery through the endpin hole, and to pin the soundpost in place through the top and back, but for a number of reasons we decided a better approach in this case was to build an escape hatch in the C bout. Dan is a brave man.
A circular hatch is in my opinion a better structural approach than square, to minimise weak points and splitting if the rib is carved, but in this case it's laminated. Cutting a neat hole posed its own challenges, but it worked out very easily. I built the flange from a thin laminate bent to the shape of the rib.
The door is a snug fit and is held in place by rare earth magnets, and doesn't buzz. I turned a small wenge knob for the doorhandle.
We had a slight hiccup when after restoring the button to the bass after it had broken when the neck was removed, I discovered that the flight case makers hadn't allowed for the button. Eeek. But in the end we decided to neatly cut off the button and glue onto the heel with a thin black veneer between. Looks very neat and much stronger. Personally i don't like the way that some bolt-on necks involve building up the button area and shortening the heel. I feel this just looks funny, and I like the full-depth heel mortise for stability.
The brass cap for the neck bolt is also held in place with a small rare earth magnet.
It takes about 10 - 15 minutes to set up carefully. Installing the neck takes less than 5 minutes with bass in a vertical position. Then lie the thing on its back, protect the belly area with a towel, hook the tailpiece cord onto the endpin, and put the bridge into position. Check soundpost position (I have made some pencilmarks) Bring the strings up to pitch being careful that the bridge doesn't slip or tilt.
With gut or synthetic strings it might take a bit longer to get tuning stable.
The bass is now strung with my old spiros and plays well, and is easily the loudest bass in my workshop at the moment. The body is incredibly light and well-finished, no glue runs or cavities and the linings are all perfectly smooth. The weight is all in the neck and scroll assembly, which is very solidly and neatly built of good maple, and easy to work.
It's been a great job to work on and lovely to see one of Arnold and Wil's basses here in Sydney. Thanks to Dan for giving me the job - and I hope he likes it when he gets it back!
Dan had the neck removed by a local luthier and made the flight cases to fit the two pieces neatly. The cases arrived in due course with the contents intact and i started the job. The operation involves cleaning up, rebuilding and refitting the neck mortise area, installing the bolt and bolt cap, deciding what to do with the button area, then refinishing to match existing finish.
Originally, I had planned on installing the captive nut by keyhole surgery through the endpin hole, and to pin the soundpost in place through the top and back, but for a number of reasons we decided a better approach in this case was to build an escape hatch in the C bout. Dan is a brave man.
A circular hatch is in my opinion a better structural approach than square, to minimise weak points and splitting if the rib is carved, but in this case it's laminated. Cutting a neat hole posed its own challenges, but it worked out very easily. I built the flange from a thin laminate bent to the shape of the rib.
The door is a snug fit and is held in place by rare earth magnets, and doesn't buzz. I turned a small wenge knob for the doorhandle.
We had a slight hiccup when after restoring the button to the bass after it had broken when the neck was removed, I discovered that the flight case makers hadn't allowed for the button. Eeek. But in the end we decided to neatly cut off the button and glue onto the heel with a thin black veneer between. Looks very neat and much stronger. Personally i don't like the way that some bolt-on necks involve building up the button area and shortening the heel. I feel this just looks funny, and I like the full-depth heel mortise for stability.
The brass cap for the neck bolt is also held in place with a small rare earth magnet.
It takes about 10 - 15 minutes to set up carefully. Installing the neck takes less than 5 minutes with bass in a vertical position. Then lie the thing on its back, protect the belly area with a towel, hook the tailpiece cord onto the endpin, and put the bridge into position. Check soundpost position (I have made some pencilmarks) Bring the strings up to pitch being careful that the bridge doesn't slip or tilt.
With gut or synthetic strings it might take a bit longer to get tuning stable.
The bass is now strung with my old spiros and plays well, and is easily the loudest bass in my workshop at the moment. The body is incredibly light and well-finished, no glue runs or cavities and the linings are all perfectly smooth. The weight is all in the neck and scroll assembly, which is very solidly and neatly built of good maple, and easy to work.
It's been a great job to work on and lovely to see one of Arnold and Wil's basses here in Sydney. Thanks to Dan for giving me the job - and I hope he likes it when he gets it back!
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
Ok, with James Condino's and Matthew Tucker's recent work, there seems to be a pattern emerging: the combination of removeable neck and sound post hatch. RNSPH for short? That acronym does not grab me -- too complex.
What about something easier, like NOBO -- Neck Off, Belly Open?
Any other suggestions?
Neck Off, Hand in Belly -- NOHiB ?
What about something easier, like NOBO -- Neck Off, Belly Open?
Any other suggestions?
Neck Off, Hand in Belly -- NOHiB ?
Beautiful work... I'm drooling here. The removable neck thing does seem particularly enticing, and once you've done that, the soundpost hatch males sense too. Nice.
That cleveland has one of the best finishes I've seen. Do you know who was the wonderful person who did the cooking?
- Aug 21, 2002
- 2,686
- 387
- Disclosures
- Owner: Bresque Basses, Sydney Basses and Cellos
Jake deVilliers
Commercial User
- May 24, 2006
- 6,349
- 607
- Disclosures
- Owner of The Bass Spa, String Repairman at Long & McQuade Vancouver
Nice work Matthew! That's an interesting transformation.
Do you know how much the two cases cost?
Do you know how much the two cases cost?
There's something about that circular hole that just looks right. It belongs. It's supposed to be there.
I'm curious as to how you cut such a lovely circle in such an unwelcoming location for saws and so forth. James cut his hatch very carefully with a dozuki. Makes perfect sense in the rectilinear universe, but in the circular universe?
I'm curious as to how you cut such a lovely circle in such an unwelcoming location for saws and so forth. James cut his hatch very carefully with a dozuki. Makes perfect sense in the rectilinear universe, but in the circular universe?
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
Living in Hawaii makes it real hard to travel with a double bass. This kind of system would be a great option and would certainly have me ordering one of those beautiful La Scalas.....
I want I need....
I want I need....
Heifetzbass
Commercial User
- Feb 6, 2004
- 774
- 118
- Disclosures
- Owner, Gencarelli Bass Works and Fine String Instruments, LLC.
Matthew,
Great work as usual. I am always impressed by the clean work that you do. I am in the process of restoring a little 5/8'ish tyrolean blockless wonder that I bought in grad school. I have started reworking the back. It is a flat back and cracked to hell. I removed all of the bracing opened up the cracks and am in the process of adding a neck block. As I intend this to be a travel/solo/chamber bass I think it will be great to include the removable neck and the sound post door. I just saw James Condino's and while it works great, I really like the magnet idea. I would love to hear your secrets of cutting the door, as I will be doing it as well.
You are the man,
Brian
Great work as usual. I am always impressed by the clean work that you do. I am in the process of restoring a little 5/8'ish tyrolean blockless wonder that I bought in grad school. I have started reworking the back. It is a flat back and cracked to hell. I removed all of the bracing opened up the cracks and am in the process of adding a neck block. As I intend this to be a travel/solo/chamber bass I think it will be great to include the removable neck and the sound post door. I just saw James Condino's and while it works great, I really like the magnet idea. I would love to hear your secrets of cutting the door, as I will be doing it as well.
You are the man,
Brian
My guess is Matthew used a razor blade compass but spun it counterclockwise since he is down under. Then he applied the backing ring with the magnets.
Any thoughts from anyone on having a removable neck but not wanting a trap door? Who feels comfortable putting up the post before a concert for example? I would imagine it could be a little nervewracking.
On my removable neck bass that I just finished, I plan to use a [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] strap around the body to keep tension so the post doesn't move. I also don't feel that pinning the post or somehow fixing its location is a good idea.
Any thoughts from anyone on having a removable neck but not wanting a trap door? Who feels comfortable putting up the post before a concert for example? I would imagine it could be a little nervewracking.
On my removable neck bass that I just finished, I plan to use a [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] strap around the body to keep tension so the post doesn't move. I also don't feel that pinning the post or somehow fixing its location is a good idea.
