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Radiused Body
- Thread starter DerHoggz
- Start date
jworrellbass
Commercial User
- May 17, 2009
- 1,271
- 11
- 62
- Disclosures
- Owner, builder: jworrellbass
Run the body wings though a jointer on a 5 to 10 degree angle. If it's a bolt on I would do a 3 piece body.
jworrellbass
Commercial User
- May 17, 2009
- 1,271
- 11
- 62
- Disclosures
- Owner, builder: jworrellbass
After they are ran though the jointer they are ready to glue up. Yes the wings are flat, just the 1 3/4" edge is angled. After it's all glued together you sand the body to remove the high points where they meet.
jworrellbass
Commercial User
- May 17, 2009
- 1,271
- 11
- 62
- Disclosures
- Owner, builder: jworrellbass
I hope I was able to answer your question. I'm getting ready to start a new bass and I will post pics of the build. I will make sure to include pictures of the angled body wings.
It is really not hard to do, but glue up can be a bit more challenging. Here's one from a build I did.
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Yes indeed they are Zebrawood. I have found using something to prevent the crawl and slippage. I think I have a pic of the little things I created to help. Basically they are small pieces of wood covered in Release tin foil. They work great in keeping the top and back in place. Oh yeah also for wings I only ever do one at a time.
This picture is just a 2 piece body, but I use the same technique for gluing the wings onto a neck thru.
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This picture is just a 2 piece body, but I use the same technique for gluing the wings onto a neck thru.
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Yes it holds them great as long as there is a clamp attached. 
Oh yeah also you need pressure from the top and bottom as well.
Dirk
Oh yeah also you need pressure from the top and bottom as well.
Dirk
Yeah I use the blocks on both sides. I know it seems crazy that just a little pressure will keep it from slipping but it's not like we're gluing 45 degree angles here. I bet that technique might almost work with that, since the pressure wants to evenly hold both sides of the body or wing to the neck.
Also another trick is don't really crank down any of the clamps until the glue actually starts to tack up a bit. With Titebond it's about 5-10 minutes, then clamp the tinfoil clamps tight and then the body clamps. If I recall the backside both foil things were running horizontally. Of course wipe it off and after let's say 15-30 minutes or so, you can pretty much unclamp and wipe under the foil since it will still be wet, the release foil doesn't stick at all, nor does it let the glue do anything.
Usually at that point you really don't need the clamps anymore, of course humidity and temperature will affect this time line.
For the body glue ups I'm not a fan of long clamp times, now neck lams and fingerboard glue ups are a different story.
Also let me say that a lot depends on the joint between either the tops or wings and body, I use a joiner and that is about as nice as I can get it, I don't think I'd joint them by hand.
I hope this helps.
Dirk
Also another trick is don't really crank down any of the clamps until the glue actually starts to tack up a bit. With Titebond it's about 5-10 minutes, then clamp the tinfoil clamps tight and then the body clamps. If I recall the backside both foil things were running horizontally. Of course wipe it off and after let's say 15-30 minutes or so, you can pretty much unclamp and wipe under the foil since it will still be wet, the release foil doesn't stick at all, nor does it let the glue do anything.
Usually at that point you really don't need the clamps anymore, of course humidity and temperature will affect this time line.
For the body glue ups I'm not a fan of long clamp times, now neck lams and fingerboard glue ups are a different story.
Also let me say that a lot depends on the joint between either the tops or wings and body, I use a joiner and that is about as nice as I can get it, I don't think I'd joint them by hand.
I hope this helps.
Dirk
so then how do you route your neck pocket and pup cavities? how do you get the templates to sit flat?
Hey vbasscustom,
Actually I had to create a sled type of router holder for the bass pictured on the neck pocket, luckily it was a V-bass so no need for pickup routes, but I would have had to done it the same way if I had to. Normally I do neck thru anyway to avoid that issue, the neck is usually nice and level.
And DerHoggz,
I guess you could, but that would have to be done with a vacuum bag setup which I don't have. I laminated the tops and backs before joining them together.
Dirk
Actually I had to create a sled type of router holder for the bass pictured on the neck pocket, luckily it was a V-bass so no need for pickup routes, but I would have had to done it the same way if I had to. Normally I do neck thru anyway to avoid that issue, the neck is usually nice and level.
And DerHoggz,
I guess you could, but that would have to be done with a vacuum bag setup which I don't have. I laminated the tops and backs before joining them together.
Dirk
