Recent content by David Morison

You're absolutely right. You probably know this already but for anyone else wanting to read up a little more, what you've just described is known as Hofmann's Iron Law. In practice, a 3cf cab with a genuine 100dB/2.83V/1m (for an 8Ω speaker) would have F3 somewhere around 60-65Hz as a result...

The "Dealer Only" thing usually just means you have to order from someone like US Speaker rather than buying direct from Emi's website.

Hear that? No, that's not thunder. That's hooves. Elderly, angry hooves. Elderly, angry hooves coming to trample all over that AI effort. That High Pass from your AI is nowhere near the 2.5kHz 18dB/octave recommended by Eminence - it's only 6dB/oct at ~1200Hz (at best, i.e. into a straight...

Re using lentils and then having to turn up perhaps more than you expected in order to detect the motion; I wonder if them being heavier than rice grains might be the cause, and also if that's resulting in the relatively broad range of frequencies which seem to exhibit minimal movement...

Hi there, great looking project, thanks for sharing. Most of the criticism I've seen of WinISD suggests that it predicts ports that are longer than needed in reality. I've seen mention of some well regarded designers* starting with a value of port length ~70% of that predicted from the simple...

It's 10 years since ICEpower went independent from B&O, so the pricing/market placement of the latter's products probably isn't much of a gauge of the former's product quality at this point in time. Not that that's meant to be a knock on ICEPower's actual quality - I've never knowingly heard a...

Neither. On it's own, the magnet material doesn't have a particular effect on the sound - it's the cumulative results of all the design choices that determine the driver's tone and suitability for any given purpose.

Diameter & Length are the 2 things that matter for this. The first of these you'll be able to get close enough from measuring the existing holes, for sure. Is there enough material present (on the upper one in your pic) that you can effectively manipulate it back into its original...

Bridge pickup off, a little bit of foam tucked under the strings right back by the bridge as a slight damper, play over the end of the fretboard. Depending on the amp, you may want to play with the tone controls a little - the stuff in the first line will reduce the highs quite a bit so you...

Those are heatsinks rather than fan vanes/baffles - they help cool the amp by significantly increasing the surface area from which heat can be radiated to the outside air. The components most likely to overheat are mounted to the back of the heatsinks, on the inside of the amp. Having the fins...

A convert from the dark side, welcome! According to The Manual, the 470 can actually drive 2 Ohm loads, albeit they do note that it runs cooler at 4 Ohms which is generally a good thing. Therefore, yes, you could in theory add a second cab in parallel with a 4 Ohm cab at some point in the...

Hi Leigh, Looks like the Basschat (oops - might I get banned for mentioning the other place? Let's see what happens ;) ) single 8 would be good for you - link here: Basschat 8" Cab. There's also a 10 if you're just not convinced about the 8 being enough, though for your stated goals I'm sure it...

Or the antidote to an uptight bass...

Dontcha just love it when facts get in the way of a spurious argument.... 🤣

Surely you can adjust the master control on the Sushi Box to prevent that, then make up whatever volume you need with the QSC's volume control? (Unless, as you feared, the 10 is just too small and you might be better with a 12, or 2 of the 10s.)