Recent content by dbcandle

In my opinion: for effects, go with Boss. For amp-modeling, go with Line6.

Many notes on all the strings? Relief problem. One note on one string? Fretwork time. A tech can probably fix it for $30 to $50 since it is just one bad fret. Assuming you have *good* files and a lot of skill, in theory you could do it yourself, but that is a fix I'd take to a tech...

I'm guessing it may be a marketing issue, or production issue. It can be hard to find G&L distributors. I'm guessing the company is marginally funded, and is intentionally growing slowly.

Carol Kaye, one of the biggest motown studio bassists "back in the day" says small hands are not a problem if you "thumb-pivot". Keep your thumb stationary (as a reference), and move the rest of your hand. I can span 4 frets, but for 5-frets (so you can get all the notes), the "thumb-pivot"...

I have a MIM Jazz "standard", with about twice that gap (snug on the other side). It annoys me, but I just got it as a "second bass" to slap on. In looking at the store, it seems like all the Fenders I look at have a gap.

How about singing and playing in unison? I don't play enough to do that, but it seems like a lot of the greats "sing" through their instrument, sometimes literally singing in unison with their playing. I've been "in the zone" a few times when I just thought of a musical idea and my fingers...

I have 2 basses, flats on one, and round-wound on the other. I'd hate to choose between them. With so many folks liking flats, though, why do all the basses in the stores come "stock" with round-wound strings? :confused:

+1 ! For intonation, though (no other players involved), I've had good luck with the cheapos. In addition to the 12th fret (harmonic and fretted), you can supposedly get better intonation by repeating the harmonic/fretted process at either the 17th or 19th fret. I can't remember which (I...

I have a pretty light touch, so I don't notice it, but folks that "tap" (fret-hand only - no plucking) have a major problem with that. Some "slap" technique can have similar problems. In watching videos of a lot of slap/tap experts, many use a wrist sweatband on the low frets (about the 3rd...

I seem to recall that the problems with "noise" were on the older ones. I ended-up with a Fender (MIM) Jazz, but in my recent shopping I found ZZounds.com very good to deal with. I don't recall them having any choice in necks, though.

It is my experience that the Ibanez laminated necks, with dual truss-rods are quite stable. The fretwork also tends to be very good. I have an SR496 that is a few years old (4-5). I've heard good things about Peaveys, but never had one. The lower-priced basses will cut corners on the...

This is a bit "unconventional", but I have a rather finicky MIM Fender Jazz. I found that adjusting the relief by using the low-E as a "straight-edge" was a bit clumsy. Still, I didn't want to spend $50-75 for a "precision straight-edge". For me, I found getting a $12 aluminum drywall...

I do! As a teenager (in the 70s...), I did strip a truss-rod nut once, so I would suggest reading posts on how NOT to "torque-down" on that truss-rod. I later learned that replacing the truss-nut (old bullet style) would have cost about $5 if I did it myself... Personally, I now loosen the...

Setup: Neck relief String height Pickup height After doing the setup, I "evaluate" the bass in terms of the minimum usable string-height (lower action is betterer!). Note: Before I leave the store, I "sight" the neck looking for warpage. Neck warpage is bad...

I have an Ibanez SR496 (6-string bass), 5-piece laminated with 2 truss-rods. It is incredibly stable, and has just the right amout of relief (easily adjustable). I have used this bass with Elixir rounds, TI Flats and LaBella Flats. The neck functioned flawlessly with all 3 (though truss-rod...