Recent content by fuzzbro

I know exactly what you mean. I play a P bass and with default internals the Pickle would choke on notes B2 and below, more on the E string than the A. Things that helped me in the past were reducing input volume, playing through J bridge pup, kicking on an overdrive before the Pickle. If you...

It is interesting indeed. I spent some more time with it and maybe the low end loss isn't as bad as I first thought or made it seem like - it's still there but nothing that can't be compensated by some EQing. The Subharmonic though... I'm actually getting more low end out of the Square solo'd...

I wouldn't say my experience is much different. It can/does track down to about G from a P pup with nothing in between, which is not that bad. The Subharmonic, however, still adds almost no low end compared to the Square wave. There seems to be very little difference (if any) between the low end...

yeah, it's the sort of thing that becomes obvious once you're sitting in front of the amp. particularly having to crank the octave pedal way higher than i normally would, only to go back to "normal" levels of low end i'd expect to get without the octave

got mine today. i like experimenting with unusual sounds so "usability" or "musicality" of the thing wasn't really a concern. i'll try to go through my meager experiences and opinions so far for each section or setting of the pedal. -SQUARE- i really like the crushing gated fuzz sounds coming...

I've got my eye on the Vintage Modified Squier PJ and almost pulled the trigger, because I love the P bass tone, and there's a bridge pickup added, just in case things get too muddy when downtuning to B. Sounds like a good deal, right? The reason I'm hesitating is a post somewhere on TB...

Looking to go down as far as A# standard on a cheap P-style bass with gauges .135 .100 .75 .55 as an experiment of a sorts. I know the nut slots will have to be made wider to fit the strings, but what about the distance between the fretboard and the strings? Does the nut need to be filed down...

Green will offset Violet very nicely.

got DR neons on at the moment, not sure if they're much different to Black Beauties. round core feels too noodly, strings themselves feel "sticky" as the coating is quite rough to touch (and to slide). it's a J, so also getting mad buzz due to grounding issues. they take getting used to to be...

It is here. As far as the voltage markings go, it's the exact same deal: 240V sticker on the box, 220-240V sticker underneath the power socket, and "120V only" painted on top of the unit. this leads me to think that voltage markings aren't the issue here, but who knows what it was actually set...

The cabinet is a 4 ohm MBE-II 212. The cable is a Gorilla Essential brand. The rest doesn't matter, as nothing else was turned on, nor was the input plugged in.

Looks like a replacement is on its way. What you guys say makes sense and is reassuring. I'm still a little hesitant to use the replacement under the exact same conditions, same speakon cable, same electric socket, etc. The cable after the bang-bang, of course, smells funny. The socket used was...

as far as i know, the MB Fusion has no voltage switch. and to clarify myself: looks like they forgot to put a sticker on "120V ONLY" or the amp really does only handle 120V.

okay i've sent them an email. i get it that what went wrong is not my problem, but i'm partly just curious and partly concerned that it may have been due to external factors. honestly, i may have not inserted the cable all the way (the speakon lock wasnt fixed), or maybe it's the faulty cable...

another thing i've noticed: the top of the unit by the power plug says "120V only" while underneath the plug there's a sticker saying "220-240V", which probably covers "120V" printed on the case. i normally wouldn't consider this to be the issue, but as you can imagine i'm in full skeptic mode.