The road worn relic never looks quite right to me, I do wish they offer more closet classic/journeyman nitro finishes on the MIM price range though like the old Classic Series Lacquer.
It's still so crazy to me how close he got it despite not being a player, obviously all his creation evolves over time from player feedback and his own findings but to dominate the market with great sounding aesthetically pleasing basses, guitars, and amps after a few tries just doesn't happen...
I've mostly focused on guitar the past couple of years but very excited to finally get a Jazz Bass again. I got it for a pretty decent price (450 CAD / 322 USD) from a guy who's closing down his rehearsal space/studio and moving out of the country.
Excited to finally have bass to put...
Should I do this myself or take it to a tech, I was searching through Talkbass and a lot of them said to be careful with the CA glue as it may seep through to the truss rod. Is this neck even sellable as is or should I glue it first and then sell them (disclosing the situation ofc)?
I recently got this used MIM bass and started noticing that there is a crack along the skunk stripe. At first, I thought it was the finish but upon a closer look, some areas look to be cracked quite deep. Is this something worth fixing or should I leave it alone? If so, how expensive is it going...
Oops, must have missed that. I guess since the Revstar II came out 7 years after the first version we should be expecting the next BB in 2-3 years, maybe they'll use the carbon rod for the BB as well.
With the new Revstar line revamp, does anyone think there will be a new BB series? Have been wanting one for a while but might wait for the next iteration with the hope that they'll go pickguardless but keep the fender style PJ pickups.
Like some people pointed out, my wording was terrible. I didn't mean literally bowing your neck to make it unplayable, I was going for more of making your setup stiffer on purpose/thicker neck profiles to avoid overplaying (See post #31). Theoretically, you could play those notes "easier" on...
I'll try to elaborate by giving an example. In Snarky Puppy's rig rundown at around the 3 minute mark, Michael League mentioned that he could only played "1/10th of the note on his friend's P Bass compared to his Ken Smith", to me this implies that the Ken Smith is more playable to him, but...
Obviously, no one likes basses with horrible playability, but is there such a thing as a bass that's "too playable"?
I have seen this culture with guitar players that prefer to "fight" with their guitar, whether it's from string gauges, neck shapes/radius, action height, etc and was wondering...
The last one is the best placement IMO, the first one is too far towards the horn. The second one while it looks symmetrical may be a bit cramped. The third one gives enough space while allowing an additional knob to be added should you want one.
Rolled fingerboard is one of the feature that is done to replicate a well-worn instrument, so in that sense it's a yes. As far as the tone, I'm not sure if it's worth arguing because I doubt there's going to be a definitive answer.