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Yamaha BB N5 II Mods / Suggestions

ragetoca

Joe
Sep 16, 2013
1,200
1,980
Georgia
Doing some major surgery to this bass I picked up on FB.
Will be installing a New OBP-1 Preamp with Aguilar Soapbars, I need to expand the cavity and install one more pod. I also need to route in a battery cavity, I have the tools not sure if I should use a router or a drammel, suggestions?
Please see the 3 attached images and let me know which one do you think will work / look the best.
Also, I am thinking on setting the bridge back about 1" which will make it a 36" scale, do you foresee this causing any intonation issues??
Thanks

JR

Mods 3.jpg
Mods 1.JPG
Mods 2.jpg
 
Absolutely agree with @hypercarrots. You cannot arbitrarily move the bridge. The saddles must remain approximately where they are (with minor adjustments). The same distance, nut to 12 as 12 to saddles.

Also agree that the third control placement option would be the most ergonomic and aesthetically appealing.
 
Absolutely agree with @hypercarrots. You cannot arbitrarily move the bridge. The saddles must remain approximately where they are (with minor adjustments). The same distance, nut to 12 as 12 to saddles.

Also agree that the third control placement option would be the most ergonomic and aesthetically appealing.

Ok, so if I understand you correctly moving the bridge CAN or WILL create issues with intonation (or any other problems)? Thx
 
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Ok, so if I understand you correctly moving the bridge CAN or WILL create issues with intonation (or any other problems)? Thx

Yes. The scale length is "determined" by the distance from the nut to the 12th (octave) fret. I guess technically, the opposite; the 12th fret is set at half the scale length, then other fret spacings are determined. At any rate, the distance from the 12th fret to the nut MUST equal the 12th fret to the saddle (again, with minor adjustments)

i think a concentric pot would be best. don't put any more holes in if you don't have to.

Brilliant! Gets my vote!!
 
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Yes. The scale length is "determined" by the distance from the nut to the 12th (octave) fret. I guess technically, the opposite; the 12th fret is set at half the scale length, than other fret spacings are determined. At any rate, the distance from the 12th fret to the nut MUST equal the 12th fret to the saddle (again, with minor adjustments)

Got it....will leave it alone then...

Brilliant! Get's my vote!!
I already purchased a preamp so I need to drill a hole....
 
I already purchased a preamp so I need to drill a hole....
Preamps can work with any number of pot combination and configurations if they aren't connected to the pots. And if you're electrically inclined even that can be dealt with. I have an obp1 and it's a standalone module. If yours is like that, you can solder those wires to the pots any way you like.

You asked me which knob configuration i think would look best and that's my answer. However if you like a separate placement and single knob for everything, that's something else. I didn't know if you had thought of a concentric knob solution, that's why i suggested it.
Aguilar-OBP-1-SK-PreAmp.jpg
 
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Preamps can work with any number of pot combination and configurations if they aren't connected to the pots. And if you're electrically inclined even that can be dealt with. I have an obp1 and it's a standalone module. If yours is like that, you can solder those wires to the pots any way you like.

You asked me which knob configuration i think would look best and that's my answer. However if you like a separate placement and single knob for everything, that's something else. I didn't know if you had thought of a concentric knob solution, that's why i suggested it.

Definitely a more elegant solution - stacked pots and don't modify the front of the bass.