Recent content by vaesto

Hi. First of all this bass is not Classic Vibe, but VM - Vintage Modified, slightly cheaper series made in Indonesia. Second: Squier guitars use metric system for nuts/bolts - so Fender US/MEX parts DO NOT FIT. Don't even try. And you also need metric tools to operate. Cant say 4 or 5 mm hex is...

Good luck.

Removing a Fender neck is as easy as it gets to unscrew 4 bolts, Sooner or later all second-hand owners do it. My biggest concern: why you need to tighten it even further? Maybe the neck has developed a bow, and you counter-acting both: the bowing and string tension, which is the TR is not...

Here are two new versions of it: Version1, darker BassWah: Pfreq: 45, range: 49, dry: 32, vol: 60 BassTsDRV: gain: 10, tone: 70, bal: 75, vol: 55 NYC Muff: sustain: 37, tone: 47, bal: 90, vol: 50 P-P Delay: time: 286, FB: 50, Mix: 48, Tail: on -- this is loaded from G1-FOUR model. Any standard...

Hi. It is not clear from the pictures if it is the single-action nut or the shell of dual-action TR, where the nut is encapsulated. Indonesian basses use metric tools and measures. In most cases it is 5 mm hex key for single-action, and 4 mm for dual-actions rods. In case of a single-action...

It is not clear if the nut needs lubrication or it has reached the adjustment end. My action plan would be: 1. Loosen or remove strings first. Then bnd the neck back and forth by hand, flex it. And after all try to loosen the TR (counter-clock, looking from the body end to the head). If it is...

The TR snapped at the other end and it snapped due too much pulling force on it. If the nut would run out of range, most likely it would break at the thread. And It would happen during the adjustment. So, I still blame "too-much-force" situation when you counter-act both: the neck bowing AND...

It is quite a weak point on this end. Even if your weld it for a longer run it still might snap on the point where welding ends. Another question, why did you need that much force on the TR? Is neck is straight when no string tension and TR is free?

Exactly. Thermal treatment is the way here. I did it myself and I know it works! All written symptoms match "ski-jump" description pretty clearly. TrussRod doesn't work in this area no matter how tight you go. It will either snap or crush the wood underneath the nut.

The air gets dry in the winter so the wood shrinks by loosing moisture. The TR is piece of metal and it doesn't do that. Result: neck bends as if you've loosened the TR. You can actually wait to the summer (wet and hot) and the neck will do the opposite :) If TR nut feels stuck and you still...

Before doing anything else make sure the witness points are set correctly on both nut and bridge ends. In other words: bend the string at nut and bridge so it doesn't go in arc over breaking points. Buzz at first fret = the nut slot cut too deeply. To verify/test it: put a piece of paper (might...

Hi. Fodera had or still has this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0507/6631/5710/files/FoderaPDF_Adjusting-The-Fodera-Dual-Action-Truss-Rod-Custom.pdf?v=1612556442 or this...

While the key still grabs the nut - try to remove and replace it. It is not clear if that black plastic/wooden insert won't block, though.

Hi, Does this bass have single or dual action truss rod? How flat is the neck with strings removed and TR disengaged (you should feel the TR nut has no load ).

Hi That's not so good. The neck might have developed a bow. Please loosen the strings and the TR completely and see how flat (or bowed) the neck is. If it has visible bow then your TR fights both the stings tension and neck bow. It isn't designed for that. You are lucky this bass has pretty...