Hello! I picked up an older Fender Precision Bass a few days ago and just got around to swapping out the broken nut and putting new strings on it. I was watching a video on how to set up a bass properly when the trussrod adjustment came up. I went out into the garage, grabbed my Alan keys, and attempted to adjust the rod. I noticed none of my sizes were grabbing so I took a better look. I found that the bolt looks almost like a circle. Can anyone help me with what I should do in this situation? I don’t want to put much more money into it, but I also don’t want a broken bass. It’s buzzing really bad and I believe this might be one of the causes. Thanks!
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Fender Precision Bass Broken Trussrod Bolt
- Thread starter artisticeagle11
- Start date
You may be able to drive a properly sized TORX bit into the remnants of the old nut and remove. Replace with appropriate substitute.
When I zoom in on that picture of the nut I see 5 flat sides. You don't have the correct size hex key. The most used sizes for truss nuts are 4mm and 3/16". Also ensure your hex key isn't worn, inexpensive ones round off easily. Try not to use a ball end hex key; the fit of them is marginal at best.
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Yes on this, also make sure it’s a good quality hex wrench. Cheap ones are mid-sized enough to cause issues.
The good news. The Stewmac gripper truss wrench will remove the nut provided it's not too jammed on the threads and provided it will engage enough to catch in the stripped rod nut. The bad news, you sometimes have to remove the plastic spacer insert to get the nut out. Sometimes the piece comes out from the force of the nut pushing against it as it comes out. Or it just scrapes the a bit as the nut passes through.
The larger question that needs to be asked is why is the trust rod nut stripped out to begin with? Usually when the trust run is stripped it's because The neck is not stable and requires frequent adjustment in order to keep the neck improper relief. It also can be from using an incorrect size Allen Key, or worst case scenario. The truss rod is already maxed out and someone has overtightened it without realizing it was bottomed out and stripped out the rod nut.
FYI I have run into the same situation that you're having right now and even after getting the old nut out dropping a spacer washer over the rod and putting a new nut on I still didn't have enough thread on the truss rod to get the neck improper relief. In that case it would require some heat pressing of the neck to straighten it out. Or clamping it under pressure in a slight backbow condition where when you string it up it will either pull itself into proper relief or you will only have to loosen the rod in order to get the neck where you want it.
The larger question that needs to be asked is why is the trust rod nut stripped out to begin with? Usually when the trust run is stripped it's because The neck is not stable and requires frequent adjustment in order to keep the neck improper relief. It also can be from using an incorrect size Allen Key, or worst case scenario. The truss rod is already maxed out and someone has overtightened it without realizing it was bottomed out and stripped out the rod nut.
FYI I have run into the same situation that you're having right now and even after getting the old nut out dropping a spacer washer over the rod and putting a new nut on I still didn't have enough thread on the truss rod to get the neck improper relief. In that case it would require some heat pressing of the neck to straighten it out. Or clamping it under pressure in a slight backbow condition where when you string it up it will either pull itself into proper relief or you will only have to loosen the rod in order to get the neck where you want it.
there are bits called Easy Out's that are used in machine shops for years they come in different sizes check that out
If anything you currently have can grab into the nut and back it out, then you'd want to secure the bass to a work surface with something applying backward pressure to the neck, which takes the stress off that nut.
If possible, unscrew that nut completely and get it out of there. You shouldn't need to remove the plastic sleeve.
If you DON'T have a tool that grabs it, yes, you can buy overpriced Stewmac tools. But you could also buy a set of Torx wrenches from Harbor Freight that would likely do a similar job.
This set of long handle ones is $12. I had a similar job you're talking about and I got this set, broke the plastic off the handle for the one that fit the nut, and then I had a tool to firmly dig into the bad nut and unscrew it.
Same thing, if you have the bass secured to a bench with the neck being back-bowed with a clamp, insert the Torx end into the nut (hammer it in if you need to) and unscrew it.
When it's out, you'll definitely want to assess the condition of the neck. If you have a nasty forward bow, then you'll likely need to apply heat and pressure to straighten it out, before replacing the nut.
If it looks straight, just replace the truss nut.
Lubricate the threads of the nut with a grease of some kind before installation.
If possible, unscrew that nut completely and get it out of there. You shouldn't need to remove the plastic sleeve.
If you DON'T have a tool that grabs it, yes, you can buy overpriced Stewmac tools. But you could also buy a set of Torx wrenches from Harbor Freight that would likely do a similar job.
This set of long handle ones is $12. I had a similar job you're talking about and I got this set, broke the plastic off the handle for the one that fit the nut, and then I had a tool to firmly dig into the bad nut and unscrew it.
Same thing, if you have the bass secured to a bench with the neck being back-bowed with a clamp, insert the Torx end into the nut (hammer it in if you need to) and unscrew it.
When it's out, you'll definitely want to assess the condition of the neck. If you have a nasty forward bow, then you'll likely need to apply heat and pressure to straighten it out, before replacing the nut.
If it looks straight, just replace the truss nut.
Lubricate the threads of the nut with a grease of some kind before installation.
Not just "some kind of grease" use a long life grease or a dab or anti-seize compound. 40 years ago the long life grease of choice was lithium grease. Science moves on, so I don't know what is best today.
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I use a fairly heavy duty grease, like what you'd use to lubricate brake piston sliders in a car.
Lithium, anti-seize, both fine. Even a lighter, teflon-based oil that stays put would be okay.
Honestly, bacon grease would be better than the "none" that comes stock in most basses. But the fact that it can go rancid would be the downfall of it.
Lithium, anti-seize, both fine. Even a lighter, teflon-based oil that stays put would be okay.
Honestly, bacon grease would be better than the "none" that comes stock in most basses. But the fact that it can go rancid would be the downfall of it.
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