Help locating a L2500 Truss Rod end.

[vaesto]

It is quite a weak point on this end. Even if your weld it for a longer run it still might snap on the point where welding ends.
Another question, why did you need that much force on the TR? Is neck is straight when no string tension and TR is free?

 

[Mikerla]

It is quite a weak point on this end. Even if your weld it for a longer run it still might snap on the point where welding ends.
Another question, why did you need that much force on the TR? Is neck is straight when no string tension and TR is free?

I just looked at the neck and it has a slight uniform bow to it. I just adjusted it to specs. Hopefully my suspicion that I was at the end of the adjustment range is correct and the washers that come with the new TR nut will fix this issue after it is welded up.

 

[vaesto]

The TR snapped at the other end and it snapped due too much pulling force on it. If the nut would run out of range, most likely it would break at the thread. And It would happen during the adjustment. So, I still blame "too-much-force" situation when you counter-act both: the neck bowing AND string tension by the TR. It is not designed for that, and eventually breaks, either like yours on a weak point, or the thread at the nut gives up. But, I'd try to weld the TR, put a a washer or two and a new nut. It might be enough. Optionally, you might consider thermal treatment (e.g.: warpedneck.com) to really straighten the neck.

 

[Mikerla]

Got the repair done on the truss rod. Found a piece of maple locally. Routered the channel smooth. Made the block to fit. Now we will see what happens when I put the neck back together.