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Official Squier Vintage Modified Bass VI Club

#2,141
sunbeast said:
That new blue one is my favorite so far, and I heard they actually got the first shipment a month before expected!
Click to expand...
I got mine about three weeks earlier than expected.

Also, it should be noted, CME did a great job setting it up. Very playable out of the box. That trem, tho ... not sure if new strings will make a difference but it's fairly unusable as it goes out of tune fairly easily. Might have to spring for a Staytrem.
 
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#2,143
moon-bass said:
I did some searching but couldn't find and answer (probably not using the correct search terms). Is anyone using these tumed like a six string bass (b thru c)? If so, what kind of strings are you using?
Click to expand...
I can’t imagine a 30” scale low-B string ever sounding great, especially not on such a small neck. I’ve got a 32” medium-scale 5’er with a much more formidable neck that still just has a sub-par B string (I string it E-C these days). I think the necessary tension to get a non-floppy B and E on a Bass VI would risk being too heavy for that little neck
 
#2,144
moon-bass said:
I did some searching but couldn't find and answer (probably not using the correct search terms). Is anyone using these tumed like a six string bass (b thru c)? If so, what kind of strings are you using?
Click to expand...
For reference:

an Ibanez SCR6 converted to B-c tuning, by @AV8R
Ibanez SRC6 Successful Conversion

another, made into a 5-string by @khutch
Ibanez SRC6 and other Bass VI's

and a Squier VI also turned...V, by @jasking
Danelectro Baritone as a bass?

Regarding low-B tuning and string options, could you first do me a favour and measure the low E string length, from the ball-end anchoring at the vibrato plate hole, to the nut, and then from nut to (low E-string) tuner? I've never been able to find the minimum and maximum (full, untapered) string length requirement for this instrument.
 
#2,145
HaphAsSard said:
For reference:

an Ibanez SCR6 converted to B-c tuning, by @AV8R
Ibanez SRC6 Successful Conversion

another, made into a 5-string by @khutch
Ibanez SRC6 and other Bass VI's

and a Squier VI also turned...V, by @jasking
Danelectro Baritone as a bass?

Regarding low-B tuning and string options, could you first do me a favour and measure the low E string length, from the ball-end anchoring at the vibrato plate hole, to the nut, and then from nut to (low E-string) tuner? I've never been able to find the minimum and maximum (full, untapered) string length requirement for this instrument.
Click to expand...

thanks for those! E string from the ball end to the nut is 34" and nit to tuner is a hair over 1.5/8".
 
#2,146
moon-bass said:
thanks for those! E string from the ball end to the nut is 34" and nit to tuner is a hair over 1.5/8".
Click to expand...
Thank you for the measurements.

Unless you're willing to perform surgery to the B and possibly E strings (unravel them to length, then solder or otherwise - superglue, heat-shrink tubing - secure them where the unravelling stops), you have two courses of action:

1) get a MEDIUM-scale (usually 34" ball to taper) 5-string set and hope they clear the nut (in order to gain a fraction of an inch, you could remove the ball-end - takes some filing of its side to slip it off the loop of string core - have the loop pass through the tailpiece hole, then put a short piece of metal through the loop so that it stays there):
- Warwick makes this roundwound, stainless-steel set, the Black Label 39300 ML 5 (40-60-80-100-130)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
and at least another one, the 39301 ML 5 (45-65-85-105-135);
- as for flatwounds, Dunlop makes two sets, the DBFS40120M (40-60-80-100-120)
https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Flatwound-Medium-Strings-DBFS40120M/dp/B079X3S3DZ
and the DBFS45125M (45-65-85-105-125); for your high C, you'll need to either keep the old "high" B of the bass VI and move it up one slot, or source a single high C (it may reach the tuning post with the bare core, but tying it is doable)

2) get a LONG-scale 6-string set of your choice, and thread the B and the E strings through pieces of stiff tubing so that, after installation, said tubing separates the ball end from the tailpiece and, at the other side, the string correctly tapers between nut and post. The needed length of the tubing for the B should be between .5" and 3.5", methinks, depending on the length of the string; for the E you'll need less (.5" to 1.5" will probably do).
 
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#2,147
HaphAsSard said:
Thank you for the measurements.

Unless you're willing to perform surgery to the B and possibly E strings (unravel them to length, then solder or otherwise - superglue, heat-shrink tubing - secure them where the unravelling stops), you have two courses of action:

1) get a MEDIUM-scale (usually 34" ball to taper) 5-string set and hope they clear the nut (in order to gain a fraction of an inch, you could remove the ball-end - takes some filing of its side to slip it off the loop of string core - have the loop pass through the tailpiece hole, then put a short piece of metal through the loop so that it stays there):
- Warwick makes this roundwound, stainless-steel set, the Black Label 39300 ML 5 (40-60-80-100-130)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
and at least another one, the 39301 ML 5 (45-65-85-105-135);
- as for flatwounds, Dunlop makes two sets, the DBFS40120M (40-60-80-100-120)
https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Flatwound-Medium-Strings-DBFS40120M/dp/B079X3S3DZ
and the DBFS45125M (45-65-85-105-125); for your high C, you'll need to either keep the old "high" B of the bass VI and move it up one slot, or source a single high C (it may reach the tuning post with the bare core, but tying it is doable)

2) get a LONG-scale 6-string set of your choice, and thread the B and the E strings through pieces of stiff tubing so that, after installation, said tubing separates the ball end from the tailpiece and, at the other side, the string correctly tapers between nut and post. The needed length of the tubing for the B should be between .5" and 3.5", methinks, depending on the length of the string; for the E you'll need less (.5" to 1.5" will probably do).
Click to expand...

I have a bunch of strings that I had custom made years ago when I used to play Chapman Stick and Warr guitar. I'm going to take a look over the weekend and see if any of those strings might work. Also going to try the a bunch of 5 and 6 string sets here - I actually have a set of the Warwick strings (I think).
 
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#2,148
moon-bass said:
I have a bunch of strings that I had custom made years ago when I used to play Chapman Stick and Warr guitar. I'm going to take a look over the weekend and see if any of those strings might work. Also going to try the a bunch of 5 and 6 string sets here - I actually have a set of the Warwick strings (I think).
Click to expand...
Keep us posted! (You could even preliminarily assess the tone, and the...crowdedness of the lowest frets - before enlarging the nut slots: just slip a phone card or similar between nut and strings.)
 
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#2,149
HaphAsSard said:
Thank you for the measurements.

Unless you're willing to perform surgery to the B and possibly E strings (unravel them to length, then solder or otherwise - superglue, heat-shrink tubing - secure them where the unravelling stops), you have two courses of action:

1) get a MEDIUM-scale (usually 34" ball to taper) 5-string set and hope they clear the nut (in order to gain a fraction of an inch, you could remove the ball-end - takes some filing of its side to slip it off the loop of string core - have the loop pass through the tailpiece hole, then put a short piece of metal through the loop so that it stays there):
- Warwick makes this roundwound, stainless-steel set, the Black Label 39300 ML 5 (40-60-80-100-130)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
and at least another one, the 39301 ML 5 (45-65-85-105-135);
- as for flatwounds, Dunlop makes two sets, the DBFS40120M (40-60-80-100-120)
https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Flatwound-Medium-Strings-DBFS40120M/dp/B079X3S3DZ
and the DBFS45125M (45-65-85-105-125); for your high C, you'll need to either keep the old "high" B of the bass VI and move it up one slot, or source a single high C (it may reach the tuning post with the bare core, but tying it is doable)

2) get a LONG-scale 6-string set of your choice, and thread the B and the E strings through pieces of stiff tubing so that, after installation, said tubing separates the ball end from the tailpiece and, at the other side, the string correctly tapers between nut and post. The needed length of the tubing for the B should be between .5" and 3.5", methinks, depending on the length of the string; for the E you'll need less (.5" to 1.5" will probably do).
Click to expand...
moon-bass said:
I have a bunch of strings that I had custom made years ago when I used to play Chapman Stick and Warr guitar. I'm going to take a look over the weekend and see if any of those strings might work. Also going to try the a bunch of 5 and 6 string sets here - I actually have a set of the Warwick strings (I think).
Click to expand...

I’ve found the Fender Bass VI set made by D’addario fits a typical medium scale bass well, so I’d guess medium scale 5-string sets are the best bet for a fit on a stock Squier VI short of ordering custom Bass VI strings from a company like Kalium (which is a good option for sure). You can order a custom hardtail plate that puts the anchor for the ball end of the string farther forward and allows use of standard short-scale bass strings if you don’t plan to use the trem (the stock trem is probably not ideal with additional tension, as it can already be fiddly with the loose stock strings).

The B string will require drilling out the hole in the trem, likely enlarging the slot in the saddle (or swapping the saddle out) and enlarging the nut slot and if you use bass strings you may have issues with the fit of some of the ball ends under the lip of the trem part (as the stock VI strings use the smaller guitar ball ends)
 
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#2,150
sunbeast said:
if you use bass strings you may have issues with the fit of some of the ball ends under the lip of the trem part as the stock VI strings use the smaller guitar ball ends
Click to expand...
I recently saw a picture of the backside of the VI tailpiece - with the ball-end of a bass string apparently sitting fine enough - courtesy of @Domespeed:
img_0705-jpg.4650437

[source: Official Squier Vintage Modified Bass VI Club ]

However, ball-ends aren't always the same size and I guess fitting problems could happen. As I implied above, ball ends can be replaced with smaller ones if need be.
 
#2,151
HaphAsSard said:
For reference:

an Ibanez SCR6 converted to B-c tuning, by @AV8R
Ibanez SRC6 Successful Conversion

another, made into a 5-string by @khutch
Ibanez SRC6 and other Bass VI's

and a Squier VI also turned...V, by @jasking
Danelectro Baritone as a bass?

Regarding low-B tuning and string options, could you first do me a favour and measure the low E string length, from the ball-end anchoring at the vibrato plate hole, to the nut, and then from nut to (low E-string) tuner? I've never been able to find the minimum and maximum (full, untapered) string length requirement for this instrument.
Click to expand...
In my opinion/experience the neck on that Ibanez is a much more formidable piece than that on a Squier VI, which makes it much more conducive to a mod like this. The Squier necks are just elongated Jazzmaster necks and can be pretty inconsistent across examples even with the stock strings IME
 
#2,152
HaphAsSard said:
I recently saw a picture of the backside of the VI tailpiece - with the ball-end of a bass string apparently sitting fine enough - courtesy of @Domespeed:
img_0705-jpg.4650437

[source: Official Squier Vintage Modified Bass VI Club ]

However, ball-ends aren't always the same size and I guess fitting problems could happen. As I implied above, ball ends can be replaced with smaller ones if need be.
Click to expand...
Just note that that trem will have basically no rearward movement!
 
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#2,153
sunbeast said:
Just note that that trem will have basically no rearward movement!
Click to expand...
I think the trem is fairly useless TBH, and I would gladly give up rearward movement to have my preferred tuning. I'm looking at some of these heavier gauge Stick strings and thinking they might work - or maybe even a "normal" short scale D of G string. After all, I nee something that is going to be slightly heavier guage than the E string on the Bass VI, I don't need an actual B string from a regular bass set.
 
#2,154
moon-bass said:
I think the trem is fairly useless TBH, and I would gladly give up rearward movement to have my preferred tuning. I'm looking at some of these heavier gauge Stick strings and thinking they might work - or maybe even a "normal" short scale D of G string. After all, I nee something that is going to be slightly heavier guage than the E string on the Bass VI, I don't need an actual B string from a regular bass set.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about tuning a more typical bass string set down to B from E? Or just that you want something heavier than the stock E for the E position? I think Bass VIs are still shipping with the older D'addario Bass VI gauges which only have a .084 gauge low E that is super floppy. The newer Fender Super 250 Bass VI set has a .100 gauge low E that feels MUCH better than the stock factory .084 string (not sure why Fender hasn't started stringing newer VIs with the new set yet, maybe they just have to run through those old strings first)
 
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#2,155
moon-bass said:
I think the trem is fairly useless TBH, and I would gladly give up rearward movement to have my preferred tuning. I'm looking at some of these heavier gauge Stick strings and thinking they might work - or maybe even a "normal" short scale D of G string. After all, I nee something that is going to be slightly heavier guage than the E string on the Bass VI, I don't need an actual B string from a regular bass set.
Click to expand...
And if you don't plan to use the trem, you might consider something like this plate that will allow you to use shorter strings than the medium-scale(ish) Bass VI strings: Bass VI Hardtail Plate (Steeper Break Angle) (there used to be other options out there like this, but not seeing any listed anymore)
 
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#2,156
sunbeast said:
Are you talking about tuning a more typical bass string set down to B from E? Or just that you want something heavier than the stock E for the E position? I think Bass VIs are still shipping with the older D'addario Bass VI gauges which only have a .084 gauge low E that is super floppy. The newer Fender Super 250 Bass VI set has a .100 gauge low E that feels MUCH better than the stock factory .084 string (not sure why Fender hasn't started stringing newer VIs with the new set yet, maybe they just have to run through those old strings first)
Click to expand...

More or less. I'm not sure that this shipped with, but it's not floppy at all. It could be the way that CME has it set up, but it looks like it's an .084, and it's more than suitable for my purposes. I've played plenty of basses with a much floppier low b.

I have a set of the Fenders on order.

Given that, I think a .095 or a .100 might work for a low b. I'm willing to deal with a little floppiness.
 
#2,157
moon-bass said:
More or less. I'm not sure that this shipped with, but it's not floppy at all. It could be the way that CME has it set up, but it looks like it's an .084, and it's more than suitable for my purposes. I've played plenty of basses with a much floppier low b.

I have a set of the Fenders on order.

Given that, I think a .095 or a .100 might work for a low b. I'm willing to deal with a little floppiness.
Click to expand...
Interesting! Of course we all have different needs and expectations, but I definitely found the stock .084 E fairly worthless for my needs even tuned to E (and I usually tune down to D standard on most of my instruments). You may well be happy with the newer Fender set, and they aren't too expensive to experiment with.
 
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#2,158
sunbeast said:
Interesting! Of course we all have different needs and expectations, but I definitely found the stock .084 E fairly worthless for my needs even tuned to E (and I usually tune down to D standard on most of my instruments). You may well be happy with the newer Fender set, and they aren't too expensive to experiment with.
Click to expand...
yeah, I have to admit that I was worried about having to do a ton of mods to the instrument once I got it, but other than the trem, I have had no issues. The set up is great, the strings feel nice, sounds great. I don't know if I got lucky, if the quality is improving, or if CME just did a helluva job (possibly a combination of all three) but so far i have been very pleased.
 
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#2,159
moon-bass said:
yeah, I have to admit that I was worried about having to do a ton of mods to the instrument once I got it, but other than the trem, I have had no issues. The set up is great, the strings feel nice, sounds great. I don't know if I got lucky, if the quality is improving, or if CME just did a helluva job (possibly a combination of all three) but so far i have been very pleased.
Click to expand...
The quality of these things can definitely be all over the map, but a good setup on a good one can go a long way! I bought one of the CME exclusive Bronco basses and it also showed up really well setup, which I was definitely impressed with for a $200 instrument. I got my bass VI in a trade and it definitely took some work to get where I was happy with it- particularly a new set of strings with heavier low strings (mine did come with a Staytrem bridge already installed which was a nice upgrade IMO).
 
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