- Jun 30, 2010
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
For sure - I've played basses that were heavy and/or really neck-dove (both deal breakers) but liked the way they look and sound.
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Neck dive solution?
- Thread starter Jaycat
- Start date
Here's my free solution for eliminating almost all neck dive on an EB3 - A twist tie to position and keep the strap in front the bass. (It also keeps the bass flush against your body - Eliminating another annoyance inherent in these basses.)
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,966
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Last edited:
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,966
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Here's a page dedicated to the Tonika, the first Soviet mass-produced electric guitar, originally made in Leningrad, then in Ekaterinburg, Rostov-on-Don and Vladikavkaz in North Ossetia:
Link Removed
and one about the bass (same distinction)
Link Removed
That's the magic of using the 12 fret on your upper bout to tell you how much you have to extend the strap point.
I applaud the use of a divers weight @lug, awesome solution, and it's pretty well camouflaged.
I applaud the use of a divers weight @lug, awesome solution, and it's pretty well camouflaged.
No-one ever tried to just reposition the REAR strap button (not the horn one) a little higher on the body? Like an offset straplock ?
I didn't had the need to do so but simple physics suggests it should work just fine.
I didn't had the need to do so but simple physics suggests it should work just fine.
Lots of creative solutions here...but the easiest one of all requires nothing more than a belt or a belt loop...no mods...no special strap, no weights, no extensions...
jump to 1:15 and watch until 2:31
jump to 1:15 and watch until 2:31
@stringthrough's solution in post #43 above operates on the same principle.No-one ever tried to just reposition the REAR strap button (not the horn one) a little higher on the body? Like an offset straplock ?
I didn't had the need to do so but simple physics suggests it should work just fine.
You're of course right. The rear button is positioned where it usually is because that's where it pretty much has to be...on acoustic guitars, where the tail block is the only area solid enough to support it.
On solid bodies there is zero reason to consider that location as set in stone. Moving the button closer to the center of mass of the instrument, leaving a slice of the body, and its weight, to the right (if northpaw) of the button, can cure the worst neckdiveyness in a much more elegant way than adding weight or front button extenders can. (Lightweight tuning machines are just as elegant, but more expensive and ineffective for serious cases.)
I used something like this. Drill two holes to mount to back of bass then another hole to attach a strap lock. Paint it flat black. Similar to a few others earlier in this thread. There used to be extenders available for the Steinberger bases as well.
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It may be the ONLY solution, unless you ADD weight on the body itself!
I installed Hipshot Ultralite USA Mini Clover tuners and lost about a pound overall up there. Tuner quality is first class too.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,966
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
On my custom basses, I always locate the lower strap peg off center toward the E side. If positioned correctly - a 'contoured body' bass can stand upright on its own with a Dunlop Strap-Lok system & strap engaged.
Exactly what I do with my Thumb BO5. Only drawback is when you want to put it down you have to unstrap... but that's really minor
