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Über-Jay 5er Quilted Maple Funk Machine.


Thank you. Glad you like it :)

Today was wet sanding day.

The intention, for those who are not too familiar with the lacquering process, is to get as even and smooth a surface as possible.

Without proper lights and lenses, it is nearly impossible to show on pictures why this is necessary. After all, if one looks at the pictures in the previous page, the finish looks pretty much done.

The truth is, even the best coats are uneven. Perhaps there are just tiny irregularities. But they will show at the right angle against the light, eventually.

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I have taken pictures trying to show the process of wet sanding a lacquered surface to achieve an even and rather shiny finish before buffing the bass to its clear gloss final look.

The first round is with 800 grit.

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As you can see, after sanding the top looks dull next to the untouched sides. Going back to this seems counter intuitive but what the picture cannot show are thousands of tiny shiny spots enclosed by small opaque circles. Pretty much like the texture of an orange peel. That's what the wet sanding process wants to get rid of.

One cannot achieve that in just one go with 800 grit. Actually that's a recipe for disaster as eventually sand paper will go through the layers of lacquer. Not desirable at all.

I wet sand the front and back first trying not to touch the edges. Then carefully move on to the edges and sides. That has to be done with care because there's a real danger to sand too deep (again).

Knowing how much sanding is needed and when to stop is what one learns after a series of [DEL]tragic[/DEL] [DEL]disastrous[/DEL] annoying mistakes which we eventually call experience.

It's hard to give a hard and fast rule here. Just bear in mind that, you don't want to get a perfectly even surface just yet; that you have quite a few grits to go; that 800 can be surprisingly rough; that sanding through the coats is harder to fix than smoothing irregularities later on.

Lastly, don't worry about the beautiful shine disappearing. It will come back eventually and much better than before.

1000 grit.

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At this point the surface is becoming more even. Tiny bumps and shiny spots (those are small depressions) have almost disappeared. The orange peel has become more spotty and some areas look quite OK.

1200 grit.

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The orange peel is further reduced. At this angle you would be able to see it if it were still there (and if the camera were good enough). You start seeing some shine. It isn't a mirror shine but it's not the earlier dull look either.

1500 grit.

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The orange peel is basically gone. The contrast is getting sharper, or so it would if the lens had focused on the right spot. Well, trust me on this.

When spraying (especially the last coats) is good to avoid droplets. Still, very small imperfections are the norm - at the least for me.

After a few rounds of sanding they will have flattened and now look like a rather sharp line running around a slightly duller surface.

They might look like a circle or as long, irregular shapes. It depends on how the lacquer dried. As you sand further you will see the shape getting smaller and sometimes splitting into two. It will eventually disappear.

Next update will take us to 2000 grit and then it's buffing time.

Thank you.

Maurizio
 
Thanks for going into so much detail on the wet sanding process! I'm sure that will help out a lot of people.

I hope so. I am by no means an experienced pro. But I'm happy if I can return some of the help i get on TB. Thank you Lisa :)

Looking SPECTACULAR, Maurizio :hyper::hyper:

THANK YOU SO MUCH!! ;)
 
Saintmez, Marial, dremy2006, thank you so much. I am glad you like it.

These are the final pictures of the sanding process.

I managed to take a picture of the orange peel spots that the fine sanding process has to get rid of. It's so much easier to explain with pictures than with words ;)

The bright dots visible next to the profile and around one of the pot holes are the culprits. As you can see in the next pictures they are gone. I am not sure how many rounds of sanding were needed but suffice to say that, they have progressively been eliminated from by the time I got to 1800 grit.

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The picture below shows the neck after being sanded to 1800 grit. The following two pictures show the level of shine achieved. The first one focuses on the reflection itself, so as to make it visible. The following one on the wood.

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The reflection below was achieved fine sanding with 2400 grit, which is were I stop. You can see how much sharper it is compared to the already quite good one achieved with 1800 grit. Remember that this is still before buffing, so it is not yet the final degree of clear gloss.

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The fretboard is sanded with no finish. This is the level of shine one can get with 12,000 grit. In fact, the reflection would look much sharper if the focus were on the reflection itself instead of the board. The board will be oiled. I use lemon oil for this.

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Tomorrow I'll go ahead with buffing and will start fretting.

Thank you for following this build and for your kind words.

Maurizio
 
Thanks Maurizio, Every time I start feeling good about my work, I open up one of your threads, and start feeling inadequate again :D

Your builds, along with a few others on this forum are as close to perfection as I have seen.
 
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Oh, my... Superbly done! :eek::eek::eek: :hyper::hyper::hyper:

Grazie mille pal ;)

Ebony shines so nicely. As always, I admire your work, Maurizio.

Lovely wood, Ebony. Thank you so much H!

Very nice!

After doing all that work, how do you manage to install and dress frets, and fret ends, without damaging that work?

Thank you PJ.

I prefer to fine sand the board to the level I want before fretting because with frets in the way the result is not consistent and it's a bit of a PITA to work around them.

It is true that one might damage the board a bit. But taping it usually works well and I use one of these too for the upper half of the fretboard. (They are from Stewmac and work well for a four stringer. Too narrow for a fiver from 17th fret onward).

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Usually with that and enough care, it all works fine and if there's some tiny touch up to be done, that's no big deal.

Thanks Maurizio, Every time I start feeling good about my work, I open up one of your threads, and start feeling inadequate again :D

Your builds, along with a few others on this forum are as close to perfection as I have seen.

Thank you so much for your kind words. You have just described the way I feel when I see some great work from fellow TBers :)
 
Absolutely beautiful!



Thank you!

darn.... Timely updates for the three threads at hand have become wishful thinking. To make matters more challenging I'm also working on three more builds. Perhaps once they are done I'll post a thread with all three basses when the current three are closed. Work has progressed though and here are some WIP pictures of the Ü-J Funk Machine.

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With this done, I can pass the bass to my friend Eugene who wires the electronics for me.

Then it's finally set up and testing time :bassist: