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1968 Ampeg SVT-810 Restoration Project

Skie's,
Not re-cones...believe it or not they are just cleaned up! They all worked perfectly even though they are over 40 years old, well used and looked like crap. I used a meter on them and they all read right at 32 ohms. I did check into having them re-coned but the tech advised me to use them as is until they need to be serviced..and then do it. About $45 per speaker.
 
My '71 straight back had 5 separate pieces of tolex. There was a seam on every edge. If i remember correctly, it looked like they did the sides first, overlapping the top, bottom and back. Then the back. Finally the top and bottom pieces overlapped all the seams.
 
When you re-tolxed your cabinet...where did you choose to place the seams between the sides and rear panel? Can't seem to find any info on line anywhere. anything you can tell me will help.
thanks

Perhaps this might help. The SVT amp cabinet is a single wrap with the seam at the bottom right corner. The seam is trimmed so that the lower front and rear metal corners hide the seam in the front and back. You only see it if you look at the bottom. It juts in because you don't want the seam too close to the edge.

The 810 cab can be done in the same way. On the originals the vinyl overlapped, you can see the bump. It looks even better if you mate the edges by trimming through both the overlaping layers with a single cut and then removing the layer underneath. I use parchment (wax) paper against the wood coated with contact cement so that the vinyl doesn't adhere and the cut can be made. Then remove the parchment paper and lower layer of vinyl and mate the seam. Use a black marker on the wood underneath the seam prior to covering in case there is ever any separation of the vinyl. The same technique can be used on the back.

SVT_covering.jpg

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My technique is to soak a cloth in acetone, rubbing in small circles over the area to be cleaned and wipe the residue off with a clean dry rag before it has time to penetrate into the vinyl. You have to work fast. Change the acetone rag often. If the vinyl gets too soft give the solvent a chance to evaporate from the vinyl before continuing. Keep repeating the process until the paint is removed. The paint will smear a bit making it looking worse. Dabbing can help here. Just keep at it.

The same technique applies with whichever solvent you use.

There's the issue. I work in pharmaceuticals, so I have easy access to some nice strong solvents, but figured I'd probably end up melting the vinyl playing with the good stuff so I wanted some recommendations :D. I picked up the crud cutter stuff. If that doesn't cut it, I'll get some acetone and give it a go with your method. Thanks.
 
Corey, something that I forgot to mention. The SVT vinyl seems to be dyed black throughout. Some black will come off onto your rag. This is normal.

Other vinyls, like the brown colored one the Gibson uses on their instrument cases, have the color spray painted on. This type of removal is even more difficult because if you remove the sprayed paint you are left with whatever the vinyl color is underneath. Then you have to touch up by respraying. Vinyl on the inside of some cars is painted like this as well.
 
My '71 straight back had 5 separate pieces of tolex. There was a seam on every edge. If i remember correctly, it looked like they did the sides first, overlapping the top, bottom and back. Then the back. Finally the top and bottom pieces overlapped all the seams.

I think that this was the most cost effective way to apply the covering. Multiple pieces meant less waste. Also they used to use hide glue. The vinyl was passed through a machine that would roll on the hot glue. They had a just a few minutes to get the covering on before the glue hardened.

They didn't have time for complicated craftsmanship.
 
I would order 5 feet for the grille. If the material is cut square when they are preparing your order, you might be able to get by with 4 feet but it is not worth taking the chance.

The amount that you need for the cabinet depends on how it is covered. There are typically two approaches to covering these cabinets. Ampeg currently uses one piece to wrap around the front top, top, back, bottom, and then front bottom. Then they apply a piece on each side. The seams are butt joined to provide a cleaner look.

Alternatively you can wrap one piece around from bottom, side, top, side, and bottom and then have another piece for the back. I prefer this approach because I think that it looks cleaner. You will never see any peeling or separation of the seams from the sides. The originals really suffered from this problem. But then again, when they build these cabinets, they never would have expected them to be still in service over 40 years later.

Other approaches use more pieces of vinyl to save on the overall cost. Whether or not you butt join the seams or overlap like on the original, the amount of vinyl needed is the same. If you are only covering one cabinet, the cost of an extra vinyl shouldn't be a concern. Look at some cabinets and pick an approach that you like.

Duratex has a bumpy texture that can mimic vinyl but it really is something else. Vinyl has lines in it that you can't easily reproduce with a spray and texturing. I would use it on a modern cabinet but not on a classic like a straight back.

Each handle is held in place with a bolt on each side. To remove the handles, you need to unscrew the bolt from inside the cabinet. The handle then pulls out. It can then be easily disassembled for cleaning and restoration. Sometimes the handle covers can be in rough shape. The ones that I've worked on have been solid stainless steel. They were not plated. This means that you can carefully sand them to remove the rust and pitting. With progressive grades of sandpaper and a final buffing, the end caps will look like new.

It is a lot more work than buying modern replacements, which won't look exactly the same. If you want to keep the original parts it can be done. Antique Electronics sells a handle and parts made by Marshall. The end caps are close to what Ampeg used and the parts can be adapted for use.

It really depends on how far you want to take these sort of things to keep it all original or modify the cab to suit your personal taste.
 
Alternatively you can wrap one piece around from bottom, side, top, side, and bottom and then have another piece for the back. I prefer this approach because I think that it looks cleaner. You will never see any peeling or separation of the seams from the sides.

I prefer this approach. Except I might consider having the back piece wrap around to the bottom. Should I get 5 or 6 yards of vinyl?

Another thing that confuses me is how the corners are done. Does anyone have photos of what a corner looks like without the corner cover mounted?
 
Any links to some recommended tutorials? Other than the tray on my B-15, I've botched up every tolex job I've attempted :rolleyes: lol ;)

I've never seen any tutorials on the internet available specifically for Ampeg. Mesa Boogie cab examples that I've seen are similar to Ampeg cabs. If you google tolex tutorial or tolex application there are a number of postings for applying tolex and tweed to guitar cabs that are helpful. You can learn some of the tricks from these tutorials. The basic procedures, building templates for cutting, using a heat gun to stretch the fabric, tapering the underside along edges in tight corners, etc.

If I am recovering a new type of cabinet, I find it helpful to go to a fabric store and buy some vinyl and do some test coverings. I try to find something about the same weight and stretchiness as what I will be applying. Fabric store vinyl is a lot less expensive to play with than tolex. I usually start with small pieces that are taped down and work on problem areas such as corners, bends or seams. Then when I buy the tolex, I get a little extra so I can try a dry run on any difficult areas with the actual stuff.

It takes a lot of thought, patience, and some experience to get it right. You learn by trying it, failing, and trying again. So yes, I've had my share of botched jobs as well.

Here are a few links:
The Tolex Tutorial-Tolexing a Corner pictures by Casey4s - Photobucket

The Tolex Tutorial-Tolexing a Cabinet pictures by Casey4s - Photobucket

The Tolex Tutorial-Tolexing Curved Areas pictures by Casey4s - Photobucket

Invalid Link Removed I don't know about the corner technique here. Better to overlay and cut both layers at once.

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Don't forget to check out YouTube. Some good demonstrations.
Tolexing a Fender Rhodes piano.
 
Should I get 5 or 6 yards of vinyl?

Another thing that confuses me is how the corners are done. Does anyone have photos of what a corner looks like without the corner cover mounted?

I would buy some inexpensive vinyl or even some heavy weight fabric or craft paper and try a mockup, that will tell you how much you need based on how you want to lay it out. You can cover these cabinets with as little a 4 yards. Otherwise 5 or 6 depending on how you do it.

I can't comment on the fliptop handle. It looks like it is close to the original. At $40 they are quite expensive. Most places sell a Fender type handle that has a screw through the cover plate.

Here are two head cab cabinet pics of the corners. The wood corner is cut off. The metal corners covers the loose vinyl. You trim the bottom and side at the corner.

cab_bottom_front_1.jpg

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cab_bottom_front_2.jpg
 
I imagine that LineX is similar to Duratex which is favored by a lot of people for protecting their cabinets. I see these type of coatings on PA cabs and rental equipment where they are bounced around a lot and need protection.