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1968 Ampeg SVT-810 Restoration Project

phatbass1

phatbass1

May 5, 2010
80
36
67
Raleigh, North Carolina
#1
I've been using some basic Ampeg gear for a while now:
* B2RE
* SVT-410HE
* SVT-1510HE

This stuff sounds good and I was happy but always wanted an SVT-810. So I looked on Craigs List until I found an old school SVT-810 the guy was asking $100 for. It was totally beat up so I offered him $80 with out even testing it to see if it worked. He took the offer! I loaded the old cab into my car and went to band practice that night. I decided to try it out that night and it blew me away! It CRUSHED my other cabinets and sounded perfect. So I decided to totally restore it to its original factory condition. (See attached pictures)

It already had all of the tolex torn off and someone spray painted it black. So I removed all of the drivers and they all were original! The grill was gone too so I ordered a new one from Fliptops along with new tolex, chrome corners, Ampeg logo plate, caster rack and feet cups. This thing will be like new when I'm done!

I cleaned up the speakers and they look like new too. (See pic's)

So I sanded off all of the paint and damaged baltic birch and will fill in the big digs and scratches with wood filler this weekend. Re-tolex as soon as the parts arrive from Fliptops.

If anyone has any tips on applying the tolex or any other part of the restoration please respond and I will be happy to take your advice.
 
#3
phatbass1 said:
I've been using some basic Ampeg gear for a while now:
* B2RE
* SVT-410HE
* SVT-1510HE

This stuff sounds good and I was happy but always wanted an SVT-810. So I looked on Craigs List until I found an old school SVT-810 the guy was asking $100 for. It was totally beat up so I offered him $80 with out even testing it to see if it worked. He took the offer! I loaded the old cab into my car and went to band practice that night. I decided to try it out that night and it blew me away! It CRUSHED my other cabinets and sounded perfect. So I decided to totally restore it to its original factory condition. (See attached pictures)

It already had all of the tolex torn off and someone spray painted it black. So I removed all of the drivers and they all were original! The grill was gone too so I ordered a new one from Fliptops along with new tolex, chrome corners, Ampeg logo plate, caster rack and feet cups. This thing will be like new when I'm done!

I cleaned up the speakers and they look like new too. (See pic's)

So I sanded off all of the paint and damaged baltic birch and will fill in the big digs and scratches with wood filler this weekend. Re-tolex as soon as the parts arrive from Fliptops.

If anyone has any tips on applying the tolex or any other part of the restoration please respond and I will be happy to take your advice.
Click to expand...

I did the same with mine. It was in SAD shape when I first got it . It turned out really nice though.
38037_1444240198772_1616155560_1077733_2249410_n.jpg
How did you ever date it to 68?
 
#5
Thanks for posting the pics of your cabinet. The details are interesting. Keep them coming.

I find that it is very important to prep the cabinet well before applying the vinyl. Flaws can be seen when they are covered.

Use a nailset to drive any nails below the surface.

Fill any holes or uneven areas with a good filler.

When sanding, be careful on the edges. You don't want to change the roundover. If you oversand, the metal corners will not fit tightly against the vinyl.

I find that a QuikWood epoxy putty is very good for building up edges and filling. It can be used to fix any problems with the wood.

I don't sand any finer than 220 grit for the last sanding. You want to leave enough roughness for the glue to adhere well.

I use a water based contact cement to attach the vinyl. I've used water based and non water based contact cements. Of the water based products, I've used Tolex Glue from Antique Electronics, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement, and LePage Green Contact Cement. They all work very well. Much less toxic than the non water based contact cement products.

The original tolex is not available. The best stuff that I've found in terms of thickness and texture is Marshall Black Levant. This is what fliptops sells for these cabs. Antique Electronics also sells this product.

There are a number of helpful tolex tutorials out there that provides pointers as to how to apply the tolex. I'm not aware of anything detailed with the vinyl layouts for an 810.
 
#6
That's all great advice. As far as the "vinyl layouts",it's very simple.
Just 2 pieces of vinyl is needed.1 will wrap around the cabinets top bottom and 2 sides. One continuous sheet. The seam will be at one of the lower corners. This seam is covered in the front and rear by the corner guards. The second sheet covers the back. The seam is a butt joint about an inch and a half from the edge. Then of course there's the dolly board.
 
#7
Thank you so much for your tips and advice. I have all of the in from Fliptops and I'm just waiting on the new grill and tolex. I'm a little concerned about the corners...the bottom fronts were pretty bashed in from alot of use. I'm going to do my best to build them back up so the new metal corners fit right. I'll post a few more pics here in a few and still more as I finish up.
 
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#8
phatbass1 said:
Thank you so much for your tips and advice. I have all of the in from Fliptops and I'm just waiting on the new grill and tolex. I'm a little concerned about the corners...the bottom fronts were pretty bashed in from alot of use. I'm going to do my best to build them back up so the new metal corners fit right. I'll post a few more pics here in a few and still more as I finish up.
Click to expand...
More Pics
 
#9
sedan_dad said:
That's all great advice. As far as the "vinyl layouts",it's very simple.
Just 2 pieces of vinyl is needed.1 will wrap around the cabinets top bottom and 2 sides. One continuous sheet. The seam will be at one of the lower corners. This seam is covered in the front and rear by the corner guards. The second sheet covers the back. The seam is a butt joint about an inch and a half from the edge. Then of course there's the dolly board.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tolex tips!
 
#11
flatback cab with cts's rules all! i should fix mine up. got all new recones a couple years ago but cosmetically it looks like a bum's ass. but the eb-0 restoration comes first.
 
#13
sedan_dad said:
Oh and do something about that ratty head you have. Wasn't it vandalised with spray painted letters on the top?
Click to expand...

While we're on the subject, any good recommendations for removing spray painted letters without damaging the tolex? I wasn't sure if or how paint thinners/solvents would react with the vinyl, so I haven't wanted to attempt to remove this mess...

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Looks like there were at least two or three band names there over the last few decades.
 
#16
coreyfyfe said:
While we're on the subject, any good recommendations for removing spray painted letters without damaging the tolex? I wasn't sure if or how paint thinners/solvents would react with the vinyl, so I haven't wanted to attempt to remove this mess...
Click to expand...

I used "Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover" from walmart. just sprayed it on, let it soak a bit, used a tooth brush a little, and the paint was gone with no damage. I not only had spray paint on mine, I had thick paint put on with a brush as well...

"Water-Based . Biodegradable . Non-Flammable . Non-Toxic . Non-Abrasive"

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Invalid Link Removed
 
#18
coreyfyfe said:
While we're on the subject, any good recommendations for removing spray painted letters without damaging the tolex? I wasn't sure if or how paint thinners/solvents would react with the vinyl, so I haven't wanted to attempt to remove this mess...
Click to expand...

I start by cleaning it well with soap and water. Sometimes this works but it helps to remove any dirt first. When it comes to solvents, try the least harmful ones first. Progressively try stronger solvents. Try it first on a test spot inside the cab and see how the vinyl reacts to the solvent. There are a few spray paint removers, some oil based like those orange based cleaners. Rubbing on a borax and water paste can be tried. Sometimes they work, it depends on the paint. Otherwise, I start with vodka or isopropyl alcohol, then try methanol. If all else fails I use acetone.

You really have to be careful with acetone. Too much and it can remove the color, penetrate through the vinyl and dissolve the glue underneath causing the vinyl to lift, it can also straighten out the impressed pattern leaving a smooth area, it can also melt the vinyl. All bad stuff.

My technique is to soak a cloth in acetone, rubbing in small circles over the area to be cleaned and wipe the residue off with a clean dry rag before it has time to penetrate into the vinyl. You have to work fast. Change the acetone rag often. If the vinyl gets too soft give the solvent a chance to evaporate from the vinyl before continuing. Keep repeating the process until the paint is removed. The paint will smear a bit making it looking worse. Dabbing can help here. Just keep at it.

The same technique applies with whichever solvent you use.
 

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