The neck is straight and the truss works! I wouldn't have done all this otherwise. I'll add details and pictures of my refret in progress sometime tonight. My luthier friend was indispensable for that part!
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197X Fender Musicmaster "restoration"
- Thread starter GroovyBaby
- Start date
I have absolutely no clue about woodwork, but in my opinion the body is just wood, which had been glued and which simply has to be glued again. A luthier once fixed a neck break on my guitar, so I think a separation of body parts should be manageable.
I like musicmasters very much! Even more, when there is work on them to be done...
I like musicmasters very much! Even more, when there is work on them to be done...
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The pickguard is the only thing keepping it togther! repair that crack in the body near the bridge! Yikes! im out! You lost me at needs refretting & file down nut.... GL
Post a good pic of just the crack? There are a number of ways to fix up a crack in wood slabs, but most of the "correct" ones are visible afterward.
Jamming epoxy in there is not elegant, but would work and, on this particular "resto," is what I'd probably try. Trying to stick it closed might guarantee trouble down the line as it tries to reopen.
I'd post the crack question in Luthiers corner and get some expert advice.
Is it possible to do a clear coat to prevent further flaking but keep it as is?
It's obviously not flopping around. OP isn't even sure if it will move when clamped.
I would love to get a project like this!
Seems original. We had a 77 Jazz come in like this, exact same deterioration. Same white 'flecks' all over the shop, same jagged 'ship builder rasp' feeling under the forearm....had it in there for months on end. Eventually, the loose pieces came off, and it sold in a manner of days! Wow, did it look cool and sound huge! That tuxedo color scheme, road worn look was awesome...
This is America. We don't trust experts. okay, just kidding. When I wanted my stone steps rebuilt I called a mason. When my brakes went out on my car, I took it to an expert mechanic. When I have questions about climate change, pandemics, or virus transmission, I trust the experts there too! Stepping down off of soapbox, I'll post better pictures of the crack. I suspect it is old not going to close but I do want to keep it from getting bigger. As for the various refinishing suggestions, I'm going as is for now. If, after getting it all together it plays and sounds great and I'm inspired to do more body work, I'll tackle it then. This has been a fun learning experience, especially the refret!
Nitro is... not that good lookin'. Far too shiny. Danish oil will be easier to control, no spraying needed. Danish oil won't stick where the paint is still on. My advice is to put on a 50/50 mix of Danish oil and terpentine (Portugese natural if you can find it, but synthetic will also do the job). Put it on with a cloth, rub dry firmly, repeat after 24 hours until you are satisfied, 3, 4 times will do. If it shines to much, rub it with sandpaper 2000 grit. Good luck!
Great bass. Nice project.
FWIW, it's a later 70s model.
I have an Oly White 1976 white guard model, which has been one of my main basses for a long time. Its finish is clear coated nitro over conversion varnish sealer ("Fullerplast"). Some colors were lacquer and some were urethane. IME, the white ones and blue ones were lacquer for sure…and sometimes the black and solid red too. Trans red, Always urethane, IME.
I would go for original Oly White…but no clear coat.
FWIW, it's a later 70s model.
I have an Oly White 1976 white guard model, which has been one of my main basses for a long time. Its finish is clear coated nitro over conversion varnish sealer ("Fullerplast"). Some colors were lacquer and some were urethane. IME, the white ones and blue ones were lacquer for sure…and sometimes the black and solid red too. Trans red, Always urethane, IME.
I would go for original Oly White…but no clear coat.
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Ouch. You might be able to pull it back, but it might require an epoxy filler. The crack appears to be the result of the board warping. It's a lot of wood to try to force back. And the shape of the body will make it tricky to clamp. Keep us posted
Okay. I would definitely not try to clamp it shut. The "proper, restoration way" to fix it is to rip the top apart, square the faces, and reglue, but you're not going to do that. I think the crack is perfectly in keeping with the "look" of the bass, and I'd leave it right where it is while using a syringe or fine applicator tip to get some superglue right where the junction of the crack is. That'll prevent it from spreading further.
You could use epoxy instead of superglue, and I might if I could figure out a way to get it far enough into the crack. Even yellow glue would work, with the same caveat.
You could reinforce it across the surface with splines or butterflies, but that would look very... steampunk. Not sure whether that's what you're going for. But butterflies are the way that kind of crack is "supposed to be repaired," FWIW, in a woodwoking/furniture/cabinet context.
You could use epoxy instead of superglue, and I might if I could figure out a way to get it far enough into the crack. Even yellow glue would work, with the same caveat.
You could reinforce it across the surface with splines or butterflies, but that would look very... steampunk. Not sure whether that's what you're going for. But butterflies are the way that kind of crack is "supposed to be repaired," FWIW, in a woodwoking/furniture/cabinet context.
Interesting that your Bronco neck is thinner than the Musicmaster neck.....thats not the case with my old 72 MM bass (which i gifted) compared to my Bronco, in fact the opposite, though not a huge difference, the Bronco neck is a bit thicker.
