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1st Build - Power Tool-Free Pine Body

J Posega

Cat Dad and Dingwall Enthusiast
Inactive
Suspended
Jul 16, 2005
11,796
17,172
38
Portland, OR
I was recently inspired to start this build after seeing this thread, posted by Darkhorse. I thought, "If he can do it with that few power tools, who says it can't be done without any!?"

I've also drawn inspiration from the growing popularity of pine as a body wood, with the likes of the Fender Custom Shop and Squier offering production models, as well as a plethora of small luthiers and shops.

First, I needed wood. I asked one of my coworkers, Dave, if he had a chunk of pine or other easy-to-work woods. Lo and behold, he has this mammoth pine board.

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It's almost 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 3 inches thick! But it's still pretty light for it's size. Dave made himself a coffee table AND an end table out of the other end of the board... it was originally almost 14 feet long! It's local old growth, and there is only one stand of tree's like this left in the area.

My tool set is comprised off a cross-cut saw, a sanding block, a set of cheap chisels, sandpaper, a ruler, part of a combination square (as member gitlvr calls it, a "Thing"), a yardstick, and a miter saw. Not to mention sandpaper and the trusty Leatherman!

I traced one of my P-basses on the clearer end of the slab, and made some modifications until I had this. Yes, traced onto the wood, didn't make a template on paper first. Heresy!

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After a moment of thinking, I realized a template was a good idea, so I made this with what was available; a piece of parchment paper from the kitchen. Laid it down, tacked it in place, and started tracing!

Notice, I shortened the lower horn.

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So far, there has been no real measuring, except some eyeballing of where the bridge screw holes are, where the neck pocket is and the centerline.

Took it back outside to my high-tech workbench... 4 cinder blocks stacked 2 high. Started cutting, didn't get any progress shots while I was freeing the end I was using from the main board, my wife had to help keep it stable by sitting on one end while I cut.

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Now, I also did not get progress shots while cutting... its grueling work when all you're using is a cross cut saw from the early 90's (not the sharpest) and a miter saw. It's wonderful exercise though!

Jump ahead, and I started chiseling the perimeter shape. Again, no shots of this, but my wife took some video while I was working on it one day, which I'll edit down to a short clip later for everyone to see. Here's a pic of my progress to the point where I stopped chiseling.

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A few days later, I had made the decision to go with a Peavey T-40 neck for this body, so I had to cut a bit of wood away from near the neck pocket. My littler brother, also a bass player, approves.

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At this point, you'll notice I haven't thinned the board down. At all. It's a full 3 inches thick still. I decided to make a forearm cut, and a tummy cut. I also took a few hours and sanded the edges fairly smooth.

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Some chipping on the top horn, caused by same reaction wood, which is quite brittle and sands kind of funny.

Later, I took the body up to the music room, grabbed a clamp, some string, the neck and bridge for the bass and measured/eyeballed/figured out where the bridge and neck pocket would be. No pics, but here's a shot of my progress on the neck pocket chiseling.

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Very slow work, and I'm leaving a few millimeters of wood on each side, to allow for hand sanding for a tight fit.

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That's all I have pics of for today! I have since finished chiseling the depth of the neck pocket and started sanding it level, as well as putting a contour around the edges on the front. More pics to come!
 
Double post to mention that the bass will get a single Peavey T-40/45 pickup, standard Fender-style bridge, and a Telecaster style control plate. It will also get a milk paint finish.
 
That looks a whole lot like work. More power to ya man, but Ill stick with my power tools :D

This is a very interesting build, if it turns out nice it will be quite impressive.
 
Just a thought - when I make the bodies I do, I leave the bridge mounting (and if I had them - the through-body holes) to the last moment when you get the neck figured out and in place.

Then measure the distance to the 18th fret, and double it to find the center or the bridge (for 50% either way intonation adjustment).

I don't even slant-drill for the bridge ground wire until nearly to the end of the whole construction.
 
Thanks all! It's been fun, and a good learning experience. Will I do it like this again? I can't say... I've still got that other board, which would be good size for a flying V, or maybe matching electric mandolin.

To Surferjoe46; I left myself a lot of room to determine where the bridge will go, it just helped give me a rough estimate so I could balance the shape of the lower end of the body. Thanks for the tip on finding the middle of the bridge... I was just going to measure from nut to screw holes on one of my P-basses.

To F-Clef-Jef... I live in Hancock, born and raised, and it sure looks a lot different than it did in the 80's. Uglied it up with subdivisions, condos and mini-malls, but the wilderness is still there.

To everyone, thanks and stay tuned for more.
 
Alright, got some stuff done the last coupla weeks.

Here we have the neck pocket, all chiseled to its final depth. It seems pretty much level, and the sides of the neck pocket hold the neck nice and tight.

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You can also see there that I've done some more sanding and cutting around the neck heel on the lower horn.

And this is the Peavey T-40 neck next to the pocket, and my trusty Leatherman.

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Now, I don't know how everyone else does this, but I had to figure out how to locate the holes in the neck pocket for the neck screws.

So I got this...

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...and these...

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...and did this...

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...then this.

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Probably unorthodox, I've only seen neck heels needing to be drilled, not the other way 'round. All that gave me neat little indentations in the neck pocket.

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They line up real good with a neck plate.

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Poked those indentations with a Sharpie and got my next set of tools.

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Got that hand drill at a yard sale for 50 cents. Can't complain... it works really well! I tested it out previously when I needed to drill some new pickguard screw holes. And yes, I could only find 3 neck screws that fit my neck.

Using The Thing (part of a combination square), I make sure the drill is pretty much straight.

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Fast forward, and I've got four holes that are pretty darn good without having a drill press.

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So that's all I've got for this post, waiting to upload some more pictures.