2018 Rickenbacker 4003 (4 or 5) - Pros & Cons?

[Resonance129]

I’ve never owned a Rick, but last year I built myself my own interpretation (“Fantasy Custom Shop”) of the 4004, so I’ll take the liberty of commenting on your points:



The 4001 models had a unique truss rod design that does require a different technique to adjust. The 4003 (replacement for the 4001) uses a pair of conventional rods. Also, as has been mentioned, the earlier neck pickup cavity was a weak point.



The 4001s used softer fret wire; the 4003 uses normal nickel-silver wire like everybody else.



Also well-documented elsewhere, the stock bridge is a cast piece that can sometimes suffer from bending under string tension. Consensus is that a bent bridge will not tend to continue to bend (most of the time). The intonation screws are not in a convenient place, and the mute assembly is archaic and can impede palm muting. Hipshot addressed all of these issues with their replacement piece. The 4004 models use either ABM or Schaller conventional bridges.



It’s double the number of rods on most basses, but it’s not rocket science, and once adjusted, shouldn’t need readjusting for a very long time.



Depends on your technique. If it’s problematic, there are plenty of “S” model Ricks that have contoured, unbound bodies.



Street price is in the ballpark of other US-made basses, although the supply/demand curve is a factor too.



Again, depends on your technique and preferences. If you want to remove it, it only needs to be done once. Another place where the 4004 models shine.



No idea where this comes from. Mine is easily the most comfortable bass in my stable, both due to its weight, its contoured body, and its balance.

Thanks much for your explanations.

Just a matter of making some minor adjustments to technique and to the instrument to get the desired result, which I most certainly don't mind doing. In a way, that's the case with most instruments.
Ric's just seem to be a whole different beast. Doing my due diligence before I make a purchase.
Thanks again.

 

[Resonance129]

You're a bit out to lunch on the strengths and weaknesses of the Rickenbacker 400x:

Weaknesses:
- Not fragile. But definitely finicky. An apt comparison is to a Jaguar E-Type.
- The frets have been fine for a very long time. Only early 4001s had soft frets.
- The bridge won't lift anymore, but it's still an awful design. From the look of it, they've completely updated it in the last few months, and will hopefully be using the new one in new 4003s. Failing that, the Hipshot is a drop-in replacement and is vastly superior.
- Adjusting the dual truss rods has a learning curve. Once you get a sense of how the two rods interact with one another and the neck, it becomes a lot easier to "tune" them and get the neck where you want it without back buzz or dead spots. Note: they use a thin-walled 1/4" nut driver.
- The binding is still uncomfortable. The S is quite comfortable, however.
- Overpriced is in the eye of the beholder. They're well-made, basically hand-built American basses. I think they're fairly priced for what you get.
- The bridge cover is a PITA to remove. Fortunately, you only need to do it once.
- They do not neck-dive.
- Finish issues around the bridge, as the magnesium casting bites into the paint and damages it. The oiled finishes do not have this issue.
- The bridge pickup is usually angled relative to the magnet for some reason. This can lead to rage on TB threads. Fortunately, it can be easily straightened when you're taking the cover off.

Strengths:
- The neck profile is contentious to some; it's a bit wider at the nut than a Strat, but doesn't taper out as much as a P/J, so winds up a bit narrower at the bridge. Horses for courses. The profile is really nice, particularly on the oiled finishes.
- Beautiful
- Supremely playable, once set up.
- The vintage/modern tone pot is nice, but more of an effect than two basses in one. THere's more tonal variation in moving your plucking hand from the neck pickup to the bridge pickup.
- Rick-o-sound is awesome, but requires a pretty crazy setup (two amps won't haul themselves to the gig).
- Ricks do sound great with effects.

Common mods:
- Bezel cover for the bridge pickup. The open housing can be a bit stabby.
- Zero-mod thumb-rest. Even if you use floating thumb technique, it's a convenient "bumper" for when you're playing on the E string.
- Hipshot bridge.

Thank you for that. Great info, and fair explanations.
The more I read on them, the more I believe I'm gonna save up for one. The "issues" I've read about seem fairly manageable and minor, especially with time and tweaking. And newer models seem to be improving on the technology without sacrificing the sound.

Sidenote: Apologies to OP for unintentionally running with the thread. Just tryin to learn as much about these things as I can before I commit to one, myself.

 

[Koshchei]

Thank you for that. Great info, and fair explanations.
The more I read on them, the more I believe I'm gonna save up for one. The "issues" I've read about seem fairly manageable and minor, especially with time and tweaking. And newer models seem to be improving on the technology without sacrificing the sound.

Sidenote: Apologies to OP for unintentionally running with the thread. Just tryin to learn as much about these things as I can before I commit to one, myself.

Make sure to try a few out before pulling the trigger. I don't understand it myself, but a lot of people have difficulty acclimatizing to them, particularly if Fender basses are "home" to them.

 

[Resonance129]

Make sure to try a few out before pulling the trigger. I don't understand it myself, but a lot of people have difficulty acclimatizing to them, particularly if Fender basses are "home" to them.

Will do. I've definitely got some time to kill before I DO make my purchase, so I plan to get my hands on as many of them as I can in the meantime. I'd like to consider myself fairly adaptable, so I'm hoping to find a good one and really figure it out. I REALLY want that sound...

 

[Jeff Scott]

Will do. I've definitely got some time to kill before I DO make my purchase...

Translation: I'm broke and it's gonna take, like, forever to save up enough......

[/translation]

Your time and patience will be rewarded, in the end.

 

[Koshchei]

If that's the case, then maybe don't worry about it? It's a really nice bass with a long and storied history, but no instrument is going to make or break you as a player unless it's a total POS; sure, they make a nice excuse to try something different, but the truth is that it all comes down to your hands, ears, and brain. To a layperson, one bass sounds a lot like another, if they're even listening for it. If you have a P, you're 95% there, even if you loathe it.

 

[pickles]

I have a 78 4001 that has the body binding sanded off, hipshot bridge, 4003 style-push/pull, smooth middle pickup bezel. Its great. Much better than the late model 4003 I had, which probably would have also been great once you did all those same mods.

They all sound great, just do the mods you like and enjoy.

 

[user362432]

I had (I believe it was 1979 or 1978) 4001. I was unhappy, All of the bad things were said. It was my great desire to love it and to hit such low level of love just after couple of months to sell it.
I understand Ric wants to have such instrument in offer. That's fine. But, they did not move much from that point. What angers me is stubbornness of the company to keep it high by limiting production.
I just got a pic on Facebook, I think it's worth seeing, what Tune, Japanese company did and made custom order. All of the bad things were fixed and looks amazing. I believe it sounds amazing too.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Perfect.

 

[Koshchei]

With all due respect, this is a picture of a bolt-neck Ric copy that you found on the internet. Without playing it, how do you know anything about it?

 

[user362432]

Plus, Rickenbacker is extreme religion or cult. Something like Led Zeppelin or Beatles.
You can join them or not. But, you cannot discuss anything about it, without being labeled, harassed or insulted.

 

[I-play-bass]

Had a 74 4001 and it played alright, sounded good. Truss rods were borked so I flipped it.

Got a 4004 Laredo and I really like how it played, but one pickup (bridge) straight up died, then I put in a new pickup I bought from Rickenbacker, and sold it. The guy I sold it to let me know that the OTHER pickup (neck) died about four months later.

Played one of the new five strings in my local guitar shop and it played alright. The B string sounded okay, but was too soft for my personal taste tone-wise. I'm sure it'd make plenty folks happy. Ric necks are weird and I'll never like them though.

 

[c10]

Some more to read here -
The Rickenbacker Club Part Twelve

 

[Rnr..........4]

The latest Ricks (year 2020 I believe) have a completely upgraded bridge. Haven't tried it yet but intonation now is easy. I just bought a 2020 Rick 4003SW but hasn't shipped yet. I guess some have mentioned the fret dressing is a little off unless that has changed now?

4003v2 Tailpiece+Damper Assembly

 

[lowendblues]

Rickenbacker basses. You either love them or hate them.

 

[Pier_]

hi everybody! I have some questions about a 4003 I'm about to receive I bought it from a friend in France (I'm in Italy), and it seems to be a 2018 Fireglo model he sold me at a very interesting price.
my only experience with Rickenbacker dates back a few years when I tried in a shop here a couple of models, a 2018/19 4003s fireglo (the one with dots and no binding) and a jetblack with a few years on it's back.

I liked them both, great sound, great quality, but both the new and used price were too high for my taste.

now the questions:

do I have to keep an eye on something in particular?

the double truss rod needs some particular advice? reading the manual (the one actually online, so I'm reading the "guitar" setup paragraph, because the bass has already the updated dual-action) it seems to work like every other instrument with double rods, but they suggest a "dead-straight" neck. does it mean that there should not be any relief, or that there should be a small amount of relief (like under 0.25mm as I set on my Fender and others)?

the frets and neck can handle Rotosound strings? I usually play the Swing66 in 45-105 gauge, but I know that Rickenbacker uses nickel in 45-55-75-105 gauge.
is it better to use their strings? or Rotos will work good?

I know that the "mellow fret" issue dates back in the 70's/80's, but I don't know if they are now using standard frets.

thanks!

I attached a picture of the bass sent me by my friend. I'm going to receive it this week. yes, the Sansamp is coming with this bass, I made a great deal

 

[woodyng2]

hi everybody! I have some questions about a 4003 I'm about to receive I bought it from a friend in France (I'm in Italy), and it seems to be a 2018 Fireglo model he sold me at a very interesting price.

now the questions:

do I have to keep an eye on something in particular?

the double truss rod needs some particular advice? reading the manual (the one actually online, so I'm reading the "guitar" setup paragraph, because the bass has already the updated dual-action) it seems to work like every other instrument with double rods, but they suggest a "dead-straight" neck. does it mean that there should not be any relief, or that there should be a small amount of relief (like under 0.25mm as I set on my Fender and others)?

thanks!

I attached a picture of the bass sent me by my friend. I'm going to receive it this week. yes, the Sansamp is coming with this bass, I made a great deal

Nice looking bass-Congrats! You’re also getting another upgrade with the RIC reissue horsehoe pickup, being a warmer sounding pickup with cleaner highs than the standard higain. All Rick forums seem to reinforce the idea of the “dead straight “ neck setting, I believe it to be true in my experience as well.
I personally dislike all Rotosounds, both for the feel and quality. For roundwounds, I use DR Pure Blues and prefer a gauge that is lighter on the E and A strings. Typically 45-100. I’ve never found using non-RIC specified gauges much of a problem, as long as I didn’t go with higher tension, larger gauge sets. But most modern Ricks can handle a variety of string types. The higher tension strings might pull up the bridge tailpiece on the older style bridge, but an aluminum hipshot is a big improvement overall. You may also want to invest in a noise reduction pedal depending on how your music is (noisy rock? No problem!) One thing to look for when getting it set up is the nut slot heights. They are typically too high from the factory, and it’s surprising how seldom that gets addressed.
The Sansamp is an absolutely great tool for getting the best sound from your rickups.
Good luck with your new 4003!

 

[Pier_]

One thing to look for when getting it set up is the nut slot heights. They are typically too high from the factory, and it’s surprising how seldom that gets addressed.

that's a problem I see on most instruments, and the nut is usually one of the first thing I file. I've always wondered if the fact that the stock strings are 45-55-75-105 plays a role, because the middle strings are extremely light.

I personally dislike all Rotosounds, both for the feel and quality.

I use Rotosound Swing on most my basses, since I started playing, and they are my favourite. I've tried everything possible, but always go back to Rotosound. however, I'm going to try different strings on this one

You may also want to invest in a noise reduction pedal depending on how your music is (noisy rock? No problem!)

I'll see, I usually play clean, even in my punk band, I prefer a clean sound picked aggressively, but I've never had the Sansamp, and I think that it can work well with this bass.

 

[ctmullins]

rickups

Nice one.

I use Rotosound Swing on most my basses, since I started playing, and they are my favourite. I've tried everything possible, but always go back to Rotosound. however, I'm going to try different strings on this one

DR HiBeams are my personal favorite. Bright like Rotos, but smoother on the fingers, and flexible.

 

[Pier_]

DR HiBeams are my personal favorite. Bright like Rotos, but smoother on the fingers, and flexible.

I'm not lucky with Hi Beams, I don't like the flexibility of the round-core, and they die on my in a couple of hours... I've experienced that many times, because I like the sound they have when new, but under my fingers they become rubber bands after a two-hour gig... Rotos instead last to me a long time.

 

[dbsfgyd1]

I must preface this by saying that I have absolutely no experience with a Rickenbacker bass, but have always loved the way they look from an aesthetic standpoint, I mean just look at them:

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View attachment 3259577



Plus some of the most classic sounds in rock music come from Rickenbackers.

Would love to hear from you guys who have experience with the older Rics and the newer ones.

There are various threads on TalkBass and videos on YouTube where people complain about the things that are "wrong" with Rics, but my question is: are the newer 4003s improved??? Or not so much?

I had a 70’s 4001 with a killer ROS rig. It was glorious! I was in a power trio and no FOH!. Just crank it up and rock!

After that band broke up, and spending the next 6 years doing studio work, I found that Fender basses sounded more natural (organic?) to the recordings. By the time I started gigging again, the Rick just sounded out of place. So it spent about 34 years in a case until I sold it using the proceeds for a business investment.

Great bass, but I recommend thinking about what type of music and or genre of the band you’re playing and insure it will be a fit.