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2020 Winter Build-off Apollo

Hey all, my entry will be Apollo. Here's my starting wood:
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Pine body (Douglas I believe) 1x6 and Cedar 1/4"x 4, for the cap. These have been "aging" since August 2018 IIRC, not sure whether that'll help or not.

I don't have all the minute details for design worked out, but as far as shape is concerned I'll be doing similar to last year but much more contours and carves. Here's what I got so far and what I'll be doing:
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25.5" scale Bass VI semi hollow complete with tremolo. I wanted to take the semi hollow approach a little further than last year. I intend to have the only contact between the top and body outside of the sidewalls to be the bridge spot and the mounting location for the tremolo. That way it allows a little more free vibration for the top.

Other details:

- bolt on neck
- I will be buying an eBay special neck (I don't have time and I don't know how well this concept will work) I'll post the brand once I get it
- single humbucker pickup
- locking tuners
- roller TOM bridge (a first for me)
- fender offset tremolo (another first), the slide lock was critical for me. If set right, will allow you to keep tune if a string breaks.
- controls: vol, 2 tone pots (stacked), and 2 tone circuit switches.
- possibly active

I will post more details on the electronics later, but I really liked the preset tone idea that I hobbled together last year and plan to expand and simplify it.

As you may notice I am a bit long winded. Thanks for bearing with me, and thanks for following!

On to gluing!
 
Tiny bit of progress. Had a minute so I cut the wood and glued one section. Went heavy on the glue and used way more clamps than I expected due to some width wise bowing of the pine, nothing more clamps can't fix.

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I tell ya though I need to get more clamps, especially some wood clamps. Don't ask how I acquired such an eclectic selection of clamps, I truly don't know.

Side note, the harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are gems for their price. They do twist a little, but can be straightened out once they are tightened.

Oh, some bonus coverage: here's the guitar stand I started working on. Completely freehand besides the straight edges. I have enough extra wood I plan on just using this one as a template. Man I really need to get MDF for templates.

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Made a little progress over this last busy week. The body is all glued up. For good measure I'll leave the side clamps on for the full 24hr and pull them off by noon.

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I'm also toying with the idea of having a spiral "channel" work its way from the body chamber to the sound hole. Similar to folded horn ideas and the like. Sounds like a fun idea and a good exercise in woodworking.

I have a feeling I won't have time to try it out, but I may just make the structure out of a cutout from the blank and then glue said piece in before the cap...

I will draw up a sketch and post but I'm thinking a spiral similar to a typical sea shell directing the sound from the cavity to the sound hole. I'll certainly have lots of spare wood for it.

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I love playing my uncle's. I'm curious how the scale will work. I'm also curious if I can manage to get a beefier sound out of one with the electronics. Love the sound of em, just curious if the beefy can be coaxed out.
I made mine multi-scale 32-30.5, the low strings are kinda loose, but not too bad. It's a good scale for a bass player who wants to play a guitar-like thing.
 
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This picture hands down wins the "most-difficult-to-understand-what-is-going-on-in-this-pic" contest. :D:laugh::smug:

Fits my character right???

Hahaha yeah, shoulda read through before posting :woot:. I was trying to show that since I'll be using a mostly identical body shape, that there'll be tons of spare wood to test this spiral air channel idea. And keep the wood type consistent.:laugh:

To tell the truth I just heard the little guy waking up and was rushing to get him so he wouldn't wake up his sis. :D
 
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I made mine multi-scale 32-30.5, the low strings are kinda loose, but not too bad. It's a good scale for a bass player who wants to play a guitar-like thing.

That's good to know. I've started to notice the tension difference on my 32" scale bass. Although it's a little bit lighter, for me it's not too bad. I tell be interesting since I do a lot of chords typically, so maybe it'll work.

Totally agree though, I highly prefer playing my uncle's vi over a guitar.
 
So much for later that day :woot:

I made a slight mistake and am doing half of the cavity shape freehand. I didn't want to waste time with another template, and I've never been too concerned with aesthetics of the inside of an instrument.

Anyway, I was planning on doing a contour like the lower bout of a PRS but on the back side of the upper bout. Might not be able to do so this time since I forgot to leave space. Oh well, lesson learned about using the router table. Way faster, but probably should leave that for after I have a 1/8-1/4" cut to use as a guide.

I ordered the neck this week. An unfinished paddle neck from kmise. Curious to see how it looks, I think there's a single factory in China that churns em out and multiple distributors. I've seen numerous sellers with the same stock photos saying "quality Canadian Maple." Reviews seem over good, hopefully I won't need to do any work on it.

I did figure two major parts that were up in the air this week though. The circuit, and the "air channel."

Here's the circuit I'll be using. Values are TBD. Sorry it's a bit messy, I'll clean it up when I get a chance.
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And here's a quick sketch of the channel. The arrows show the pathway. Basically a spiral exiting out the f hole from inside the body.

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I understand the idea of speaker port design, and although I doubt this will change much I thought it'd be cool to mess with. This is completely extra curricular and won't happen if I don't think I'll have the time needed to finish. I think I'm going to create a rear panel that it'll be attached to so I can remove it or interchange with other designs.

Considering the minimal "port" width and length, I doubt it will alter vibration of the cap. But who knows maybe it will.:smug:
 
Not much to add, no real progress this week. Gluing up the cap right now. Thinking of taking it into a shop to thickness plane it. That or maybe carve it?

Neck arrived, and I'm impressed. Fret ends need a little dressing, maple is a real nice piece, though I'm not sure what the fretboard is, appears to be solid wood but a spot almost looks like multiply...grain is definitely not rosewood. Reminds me a bit of post aacacia. I'll better pic today. Maybe the lil helper will be up for displaying it again.

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Here's some more photos of the neck. Still no time for any progress, but Saturday I should have the house to myself!

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Upon further inspection I'm pretty stumped as far as the fretboard, but I'm no wood guru. The neck itself is well made, no volute but there is a scarf joint. I'm impressed with the maple. The fretboard feels nice, frets are seated well. All of them look straight, have yet to check placement. Just need to dress the fret ends. They even beveled the edges of the fretboard.

My only complaint is the crown of the FB radius seems slightly off center. However, it's very flat and I doubt I'll have a problem with it. Oh and there was a spot of minor chip-out further up the neck between an inlay and fret (17, 19, or 21 can't remember which). The chip is still stuck there, it appears that it probably happened when the fret was installed. I can easily fix that though. The inlays are mostly straight, but that doesn't bother me a bit. For about $50 it's a steal if you ask me.
 
Here's some more photos of the neck. Still no time for any progress, but Saturday I should have the house to myself!

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Upon further inspection I'm pretty stumped as far as the fretboard, but I'm no wood guru. The neck itself is well made, no volute but there is a scarf joint. I'm impressed with the maple. The fretboard feels nice, frets are seated well. All of them look straight, have yet to check placement. Just need to dress the fret ends. They even beveled the edges of the fretboard.

My only complaint is the crown of the FB radius seems slightly off center. However, it's very flat and I doubt I'll have a problem with it. Oh and there was a spot of minor chip-out further up the neck between an inlay and fret (17, 19, or 21 can't remember which). The chip is still stuck there, it appears that it probably happened when the fret was installed. I can easily fix that though. The inlays are mostly straight, but that doesn't bother me a bit. For about $50 it's a steal if you ask me.
I've used necks with FBs like that, I think its a rosewood ply but I too am not sure exactly what it is, Ijust know that the necks I've had with those fretboards seem more stable.
 
I've used necks with FBs like that, I think its a rosewood ply but I too am not sure exactly what it is, Ijust know that the necks I've had with those fretboards seem more stable.

That's an excellent point. Never thought about that effect. It's difficult to tell if the face is a veneer since the edge is beveled.

Thanks for that, have you had good luck with the frets staying seated?
 
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Well I ended up having a bunch of house repairs and touch ups today. I did get a little bit done, then the battery to my router ran out of juice.... Oh well the body cavity is almost there. Just and 1/8" to go and a little out for the belly cut. I feel like I'm ahead of where I was at last year so that's good news. Once I finish the cavity and neck pocket, I'll be able to use the excess from cutting the outside for the spiral air channel. I mean port...haha

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I really need to invest in a corded router...is there much of a difference between a trim router and a uh not trim router?

I say yes. I have a Bosch Colt that is great for the more finicky detail work, and a POS Skil two-hand plunge router for the bigger stuff. The big router is too bulky for small stuff, and the small one is too wheezy for big stuff.

I really really need to replace my POS Skil though.... :meh:
 
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