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2025 Rickenbacker 4003 Neck G string side twisted and deformation

#41
micguy said:
3 thousandths of an inch difference in relief from one side of the neck to the other isn't much of a "warp" - that's pretty benign. With the truss rod, you can adjust either side to be whatever spec you want, the other side will just be a tiny bit off that number. Your E side currently has about 12 thousandths relief - that's a pretty decent setup. I aim for about 10 when I do setups, which would put you G side at 13 thousandths. OK.....

Seriously, this is not a big deal. I do a lot of setups for folks, and that small of a difference is well within what I'd consider normal.
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No, what I mean is that if it's a very straight neck, the gap on the treble side should be almost nonexistent, or about one-third the curvature on the bass side, roughly 0.1mm. At least that's how it is on my Fender and Musicman basses.
 
#42
SU XIAO said:
No, what I mean is that if it's a very straight neck, the gap on the treble side should be almost nonexistent, or about one-third the curvature on the bass side, roughly 0.1mm. At least that's how it is on my Fender and Musicman basses.
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So, what you are saying is your Fenders and Musicmans are warped the other way. 0.1 mm (2 and a half thousandths) is too straight - you have to run the string heights up if your neck is that straight - your best action/playability is with more relief than that. 6 thousandths is what I aim for on 4's for me, as I like a bit of fret buzz when I dig in down low, but for other folks, I shoot for 10 thousandths on the E side, and check that the G side is OK (a couple thousandths less there is OK) - that gives good, balanced playability over the whole neck. On 5's the numbers are bigger, as B strings need more room.

I would never set up a bass for anyone with 2 and a half thousandths on either side.
 
#44
micguy said:
So, what you are saying is your Fenders and Musicmans are warped the other way. 0.1 mm (2 and a half thousandths) is too straight - you have to run the string heights up if your neck is that straight - your best action/playability is with more relief than that. 6 thousandths is what I aim for on 4's for me, as I like a bit of fret buzz when I dig in down low, but for other folks, I shoot for 10 thousandths on the E side, and check that the G side is OK (a couple thousandths less there is OK) - that gives good, balanced playability over the whole neck. On 5's the numbers are bigger, as B strings need more room.

I would never set up a bass for anyone with 2 and a half thousandths on either side.
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I meant that after adjusting the curvature of the E string at the 8th fret to 0.3mm, the gap on the G string at the 8th fret was almost gone, it was completely flush! My Fender bass is like that. My Muicman bass has a gap of about 0.15mm on the side of the G string.

Sorry, I need to use an online translator to communicate, so the wording might be a little inaccurate.
 
#45
SU XIAO said:
I meant that after adjusting the curvature of the E string at the 8th fret to 0.3mm, the gap on the G string at the 8th fret was almost gone, it was completely flush! My Fender bass is like that.
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Those necks are also twisted - they weren't intended to be that way, but it's just how it works out - some necks twist a bit one way, some the other way. You're concerned over .08 mm twist on your Ric, when you have other basses with about 4x that much twist - those are the ones you should be reacting to.

Roasted necks are more consistent (with less twist); what you are describing is just the way wood moves. I generally like to avoid (if the thing plays OK) dressing frets until after a neck has a couple winters under it's belt - you can compensate a bit of this stuff with fret dressing, but if you dress the frets on a new neck, when the neck moves, and you dress them again, you're just taking off fret height that you don't need to. After a few years, most necks become much more stable.
 
#46
micguy said:
Those necks are also twisted - they weren't intended to be that way, but it's just how it works out - some necks twist a bit one way, some the other way. You're concerned over .08 mm twist on your Ric, when you have other basses with about 4x that much twist - those are the ones you should be reacting to.

Roasted necks are more consistent (with less twist); what you are describing is just the way wood moves. I generally like to avoid (if the thing plays OK) dressing frets until after a neck has a couple winters under it's belt - you can compensate a bit of this stuff with fret dressing, but if you dress the frets on a new neck, when the neck moves, and you dress them again, you're just taking off fret height that you don't need to. After a few years, most necks become much more stable.
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Okay, thank you for your suggestion. I will act cautiously. Also, my stingray is indeed the new baked neck.:D
微信图片_20251222145430_15_2.jpg
 
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#48
I believe what @SU XIAO is referring to is that it is more optimum (better) to have more relief on the bass side of the fretboard, which IMHO, is correct.

It is better to have more relief on the bass side, the larger strings vibrate more, and the lower action on the treble side allows for the lighter strings to have lower action/string height.

I apologize if I am wrong, I do not mean to put words in his mouth.
 
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#52
Totally unplayable garbage. You probably won’t get much for it second hand, I doubt you’ll even find a buyer who thinks this is acceptable, so could be a total loss. I’ll do you a favor though. I’ll give you $250 for it, just because I need some firewood and I want to see you get some of your money back. You won’t get a better offer than this. You pay shipping though.
 

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